delete this

no paint.lots of little details.i am out of town.i will be back at it tomorrow.i am going to: kick it over a bunch.2.reconnect the battery.3.see if the hot and ground and red white and blue white are going where they should.hit the buton and hope.even with no carbs the starter and solenoid should work.i will keep trying different the linkathings to get the linkage and butterflies moving
 
I am beginning to see why certain aspects of the bike did not work with the key on.I replaced the right handlebar controls just now.It has blue white,red,blue,red yellow,red white, and brown.He had cut all but the red white and brown.the kill switch was not there.I suppose he used the red white to be hot with the key on, the brown not sure where it went, and all the rest he did not use for whatever reason.I suppose he killed the bike by turning off the key.I hate to look inside the left handlebar module.I am going to hook it back up as designed.The wires coming from the bike all correspond with the ones from the new right controls.He just had electrical tape over them.dang. AND MY BUTTERFLIES STILL WONT BUDGE.I have used gunk,MEK for 2 hours,dawn liquid bath,and evaporust for 4 hours.I have not bothered taking the pins out of the floats.No point if the choke linkage and butterflies wont move.I can imagine how the slides would never move if they were back in since nothing else moves. The wires from the new control has all male bullet connectors.So I need to find the female counterpart.I assume you buy according to wire gauge.These are which 16 or 18 gauge? Frustrated in Texas. Zamak sits there nonfunctional.When this bike is a runner I will change this thread title to The making of Zamak.
 
ron bayless said:
I am beginning to see why certain aspects of the bike did not work with the key on.I replaced the right handlebar controls just now.It has blue white,red,blue,red yellow,red white, and brown.He had cut all but the red white and brown.the kill switch was not there.I suppose he used the red white to be hot with the key on, the brown not sure where it went, and all the rest he did not use for whatever reason.I suppose he killed the bike by turning off the key.I hate to look inside the left handlebar module.I am going to hook it back up as designed.The wires coming from the bike all correspond with the ones from the new right controls.He just had electrical tape over them.dang. AND MY BUTTERFLIES STILL WONT BUDGE.I have used gunk,MEK for 2 hours,dawn liquid bath,and evaporust for 4 hours.I have not bothered taking the pins out of the floats.No point if the choke linkage and butterflies wont move.I can imagine how the slides would never move if they were back in since nothing else moves. The wires from the new control has all male bullet connectors.So I need to find the female counterpart.I assume you buy according to wire gauge.These are which 16 or 18 gauge? Frustrated in Texas. Zamak sits there nonfunctional.When this bike is a runner I will change this thread title to The making of Zamak.
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Hi ron,
your next carb attack should be with the dish-soap solution of your choice in an ultrasonic bath.
Rather than use bullet connectors try multi-pin connectors, there's a recent post with a link to a supplier and like it sez, get their crimping tools too.
 
in this town of 150,000 and multiple places to look, there were no female bullets to receive the males.So I am going with quick connect/disconnect wire ends.Just have to find my stripper now.I assume I can use a pair of pliers or needlenose to crimp with.I can use the soap thing but how do i come up with a sonic cleanser.I think i will look for a crimper,might have to go to lowes or home depot.if not, there are 6.7 million people here in the metroplex.surely some place,maybe even northern tools,has a crimper. radio shack went out of business.You know those parts washers like harbor freight sell? Like that? I am not going to spend money on one of those.I know a guy who owns a hotrod shop, he could probably get them unsiezed.not free.but i aint going nowhere without carbs.I may have to bite the bullet.Can you imagine why that po cut all those wires.no battery,no cables,kill run disconnected,no signals, probably he was trying to go chopper style wiring and kick only.I hate trying to figure out someones mess.I suppose if you dont have a battery then the starter and solenoid arent involved.I dont see how fire to the coils happens unless the motor turning over fast enough to start kind of like a lawnmower and it just keeps running. A generator component still exists and makes for a horn,and lights.
 
ron bayless said:
in this town of 150,000 and multiple places to look, there were no female bullets to receive the males.So I am going with quick connect/disconnect wire ends.Just have to find my stripper now.I assume I can use a pair of pliers or needlenose to crimp with.I can use the soap thing but how do i come up with a sonic cleanser.I think i will look for a crimper,might have to go to lowes or home depot.if not, there are 6.7 million people here in the metroplex.surely some place,maybe even northern tools,has a crimper. radio shack went out of business.You know those parts washers like harbor freight sell? Like that? I am not going to spend money on one of those.I know a guy who owns a hotrod shop, he could probably get them unsiezed.not free.but i aint going nowhere without carbs.I may have to bite the bullet.Can you imagine why that po cut all those wires.no battery,no cables,kill run disconnected,no signals, probably he was trying to go chopper style wiring and kick only.I hate trying to figure out someones mess.I suppose if you dont have a battery then the starter and solenoid arent involved.I dont see how fire to the coils happens unless the motor turning over fast enough to start kind of like a lawnmower and it just keeps running. A generator component still exists and makes for a horn,and lights.
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Hi ron,
here's the link to the wire ends and crimping tools:- http://www.vintageconnections.com/
You can Google "ultrasonic parts cleaner" to see what they are and find one that is big enough to fit your carbs in.
Mind you, they ain't cheap. Perhaps your hotrod guy has one and will rent your carbs a ride in it.
 
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fredintoon said:
Hi ron,
here's the link to the wire ends and crimping tools:- http://www.vintageconnections.com/
You can Google "ultrasonic parts cleaner" to see what they are and find one that is big enough to fit your carbs in.
Mind you, they ain't cheap. Perhaps your hotrod guy has one and will rent your carbs a ride in it.
Click to expand...
A little trivia, but you might like the information.The hot rod guy is jacob.He owns j and r rodwerks.He is the j, and probably his wife is the r because he has no partners.He got his start several years ago.He restored and rodded out a white 64 malibu.He sold it for $50,000, started his business.To say he does great work is an understatement.You want your late fathers old truck restored, he is your guy.You want your car or truck totally rodded out, he is the guy.You want some one off chip foose type he is the guy.He doesnt have an ad, no webpage.He has people send him cars from all over the usa and even from overseas.His only fault is poor business practice.A guy brings him a pos international scout, it was his dad's.he gives jacob 5,000, says let me know when you need more.Then when the time comes the guy says wow, I lost my job, I dont have anymore money etc etc.He has a yard full of halfdone cars.Plenty have told him stop it.Just build and sell.But hes a soft heart.I love it when someone actually does what they promise.One of my favorites is a silver 69 roadrunner.Hemi 426.It came to him in boxes.Its a multiple trophy car.One of several.So, he might do the carbs, but not free and he may put them on the backburner for 6 months.I will have to check around for another solution.I have used and possess some of vintage connections already.If I was going to do several of these I might buy a cleaner.But at 68,and no son interested in this at all unfortunately, this will probably be my only restomod project.
 
I'm thinking of some type of shock wave down the throttle shafts, with a couple drops of carb cleaning solvent where the shaft enters its throttle bores.

Imagine a light tap of a 4-oz hammer on the shaft end, followed by another light tap on the opposite end. Enuff tap to let the shaft know you're there, not enuff to disrupt and deform the shaft ends. Now imagine doing this numerous times per second. Could rattle the carb body back-and-forth between two anvils, the shaft ends hitting the anvils. Or cook up some electronic contrivance to do this rattling. The shocks should help the solvent wick in there...
 
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TwoManyXS1Bs said:
I'm thinking of some type of shock wave down the throttle shafts, with a couple drops of carb cleaning solvent where the shaft enters its throttle bores.

Imagine a light tap of a 4-oz hammer on the shaft end, followed by another light tap on the opposite end. Enuff tap to let the shaft know you're there, not enuff to disrupt and deform the shaft ends. Now imagine doing this numerous times per second. Could rattle the carb body back-and-forth between two anvils, the shaft ends hitting the anvils. Or cook up some electronic contrivance to do this rattling. The shocks should help the solvent wick in there...
Click to expand...
understood.But i see no way to do that. Here in denton is a shop called calverts.one of the foremost best know engine builders in the USA.I might take them to him and see if he could get them vapor blasted and freed up.A friend of mine had a samauri x90. Calverts took a v6 motor out of a s10 pickup.After calverts got done with overbore,cams,ported heads,edelbrock,corvete pistons the v6 had 330 horsepower. Then an $8,000 racing transmission added and it was shoehorned into the engine bay.The guy who owned it is a friend of mine,multimillionaire so he could afford something ridiculous like that.Needless to say its power to weight ratio is impressive. I imagine calverts could deal with my carbs.
 
Sometimes you just need to bite the bullet, some carbs are beyond hope. Throttle shafts that are really stiff will likely never be right again. I have found southwest carbs with completely worn out throttle shaft bushings, dirt and grit is a real good abrasive...... Anytime the throttle shafts are that "stuck" they have to come all the way apart and get new throttle shaft seals at a minimum. This area is touchy, fine work if you are a bit "ham handed" by nature it may not be the job for you. My opinion is that spending money and time on these carbs is not the best course. post up an ad, good chance you can find a set of "easy" fixer's or maybe even running carbs in the $100 area. I like to think i'm pretty good at these and figure on about 4-5 hours of work to get a fully rebuilt set maybe more if a lot of cleaning is needed. That is starting with a set that I decide is not stupid bad.
 
Gotta add; that no matter how great an engine builder is if he's not a motorcycle carb guy he will spend a LOT of time learning on your dime.
 
Yes, bike mechanics and car mechanics are 2 totally different animals. When a guy tells me he works on cars, I just cringe. From what I've seen, that pretty much guarantees he's going to make a real mess of the bike he's working on.
 
I have spent about $100 on cleaning solution.I agree.Its time to get more carbs,ones with moving slides,chokes and butterflies.. I would not even work on a motorcycle engine if I had not rebuilt one gs 1000 engine and when i was young 289 fords and 327 chevys.Of course motorcycle carbs I have never worked on.And while cars and bikes carbs have chokes,buterflies,jets,etc it seems that a yamaha carb is much more difficult to get right than say a ford motorcraft or holley 2 barrel.I looked here on ebay.I just dont want to buy some 34s thinking they are 38s.
 
Yes, those appear to be the same as yours, a '78-'79 set of BS38s.
 
I just put a bid in one some carbs.I agree.One time I had a 67 chevy pickup with a bad 327,a rod loose.I had a 327 in a 69 impala given to me.It needed rings.I swapped them out after reringing. My 67 motor was like these carbs.Not doable.I know bikes and cars arent the same.But the principles are.Now if this was a norton, brough superior,excelsior henderson no expense would matter.This aint one of those.I could buy a real nice one for 2,000.I was wanting to learn the mechanics of these bikes.I am learning.The hard way.

p.s. now, I would buy these off ebay I have now for 30-40 for parts now I know better.
 
yeah but... for my money I'd prefer a set "some guy" hasn't "taken apart" LOL
the 78-79 BS38s are great carbs, with a bit of fiddling the resto mod is running those and with some tuning are that bike is the best running Xs I've ever had, thanks to 5T for help on the set up.That est of three carbs are earlier sets not a direct interchange off some parts with the 78-79s
quick ID's for your year of carbs; aluminum lids, not chrome! angle iron, holds them together in front, 5 holes in the intake bell.
 
ron bayless said:
A little trivia, but you might like the information.The hot rod guy is jacob.He owns j and r rodwerks.He is the j, and probably his wife is the r because he has no partners.He got his start several years ago.He restored and rodded out a white 64 malibu.He sold it for $50,000, started his business.To say he does great work is an understatement.You want your late fathers old truck restored, he is your guy.You want your car or truck totally rodded out, he is the guy.You want some one off chip foose type he is the guy.He doesnt have an ad, no webpage.He has people send him cars from all over the usa and even from overseas.His only fault is poor business practice.A guy brings him a pos international scout, it was his dad's.he gives jacob 5,000, says let me know when you need more.Then when the time comes the guy says wow, I lost my job, I dont have anymore money etc etc.He has a yard full of halfdone cars.Plenty have told him stop it.Just build and sell.But hes a soft heart.I love it when someone actually does what they promise.One of my favorites is a silver 69 roadrunner.Hemi 426.It came to him in boxes.Its a multiple trophy car.One of several.So, he might do the carbs, but not free and he may put them on the backburner for 6 months.I will have to check around for another solution.I have used and possess some of vintage connections already.If I was going to do several of these I might buy a cleaner.But at 68,and no son interested in this at all unfortunately, this will probably be my only restomod project.
Click to expand...

Hi ron,
your buddy Jacob sounds like one of the good guys but I don't recommend that you ask him to rebuild your carbs
because a professional carb strip & rebuild will cost way North of buying a good used carb set.
As others have posted, your carb set could well be FUBAR and you are stuck with buying a good used set anyway.
Note that the list has several posts from guys who have swapped their stock carbs for aftermarket units so there
could be some take-offs available. Try a want ad in the list's classifieds.
In the hope that your set is salvageable I'd ask buddy Jacob if he has an ultrasonic cleaning bath and if he'd
let you put your carb-set in it overnight for a small fee or a return favor.
 
I already have a bid in on a set on ebay.I can return them if they arent what was posted.Easiest way to go.Fortunately I have 3 other forms of transportation so no rush.I am just impatient.I am a doer not a waiter. Another thing.My 2 into 1 exhaust apparently cost about $350.Nice.But he was using pods,most likely different jets.I am not sure what stock size jets are, the ones I am trying to buy will have stock jets.I am thinking it might run lean or rich if the 2 dont match.I wanted the original 2 into 2 exhausts and airbox anyway.But finding those isnt cheap either.I would be best comparing the ones he might have installed and compare to stock size.Cart before the horse is until I get some functioning carbs and the bike runs all the rest of the details dont matter.
 
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