calling all engine guys...

OMG do NOT use water to rinse the crank case. As you know water and oil dont mix and you wont get it all out of the engine: water and steel=RUST. Use kerosene
 
Really? I guess it depends how much shit is in the crank case and how much fluid needs to be flushed through to get everything out. I think if you use enough parts cleaner, kerosene, or whatever afterwords to flush it all out again really well, then oil after that, you'd be fine.
 
OMG do NOT use water to rinse the crank case. As you know water and oil dont mix and you wont get it all out of the engine: water and steel=RUST. Use kerosene
:hijack:I had a friend in high school who's uncle told him he could clean the sludge out of a barn find 426 hemi with kerosene. So my buddy poured about 3 gallons in the valve cover oil fill, drained about half that out of the oil pan plug and proceeded to try and start the engine:yikes:.
Biggest boom I had ever heard until i joined the army.
He was a good friend, but man did he have no common sense.
 
To remove a really stuck on sump plate I put a 2x4 on the flat front edge and give it a smack with a 6 pound "persuader" Comes right off.
Edit;
Good grief this thread is two years old...................
 
after doing some research on what would be good to clean out engines and other metals parts, I found that mineral spirits came highly recommended. It is similar to kerosene and acetone; a non-polar solvent. Works good for degreasing and cleaning.


Kent
 
+1 on mineral spirits (paint thinner) It's my go to solvent, cuts grease very fast and not as nasty as other solvents around. I keep a well marked old Windex bottle of it on my work benches. It's also the fast way to remove the black guck left when you are buffing parts, spray on wipe off.
 
Yep...I agree, most abrasive discs/pads/bristles do remove base metal with gasket material. Even slightly uneven gasket surfaces are very difficult to seal and may never seal properly. :banghead: Be careful and do Take your Time!...with all of it. :bike:
- id rather use permatex and a razor blade and take my time
 
Ha!!!!! :laugh:I'm replying to History!!! I'm Funny! Doh!
What an Ultra Marroon!!!!:doh:
:shrug:
Yep...I agree, most abrasive discs/pads/bristles do remove base metal with gasket material. Even slightly uneven gasket surfaces are very difficult to seal and may never seal properly. :banghead: Be careful and do Take your Time!...with all of it. :bike:
 
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P5130004.jpg

- the yard hack


god I love that van inxs ! you guys have some amazing vehicles over there. That would make a great rv conversion base .
Is it a Chevy ? what year what model and engine it it ? tell me all so I can drool some more
 
True story about water in engine. Back in 1980 or so, my mom called me and said her car, an 87 volkswagen golf, was over heating. She stopped and called me because she had remembered that I had told her "if she was to remember anything about cars it was to stop if it was over heating..."

Well she said fluid was in the parking lot.. but she needed to get home... So I told her to get gallon milk jugs from her work and fill with very warm water.. Told her to open the hood and she would see two openings in front, one oil one for radiator. Told her the radiator one would be closest to front bumper. Told her to wait to cool down... put rags on top.. listen for hissing to stop... etc... She did what I said and started off.. 10 min later she calls from road... same thing but no fluid under car... She has another jug in car and puts it in after waiting to cool off and take off cap.. she does this 3 times... runs out of water jugs and comes home. She gets home and the car is almost red hot.. I can smell it when she pulls in the driveway. the hood is burning hot.. :yikes:

I yell at her and then open the hood. That car has the oil fill spot closer to the bumper and she put 2 or maybe 3 gallons of water in the oil!!!!!

I ask her again and again till she is yelling.. ":yikes:Yes thats what I did..I put it in there... Thats what you said to do..." and stomped into the house..http://www.xs650.com/forum/images/smilies/yikes.gif I say "Mom.. it says Oil..." She's already in the house frustrated shat she even had to do any of this car crap.

I go and get 10 quarts of oil and change the oil after putting the hose clamp back on where all the coolant leaked. Hers the fun part...out of the bottom of the car a frothy grayish.. salad dressing mix comes out. I do it again.. the second time a lighter gray amber gold almost heavy foam comes out. I do it again and it looks like the oil is comming out as clean as it went it. I fill back up and she's runnig like a champ.

I think the water was heavy and just cleaned the crap out of the engine. How it all fit.. where it all went.. idon't know.. maybe when it got hot, it steamed out cracks.. how do you fit 2 or 3 gallons of water in a 1.8 liter engine? Women???? Anyways... never had a problem and that car was sold to a guy who put over 300k on it. That was an 87 Volks Golf. Like I said.. it might have just worked.. its hot so water evaps out cracks.. its heavier than oil so it flushes harder in the engine... and......:shrug: I don't know.. Engine gods love moms?


Sooooo best way to wash your engine???!!!:laugh::shrug::wtf:
 
We had a GMC Sierra with over 350K miles on it. Single cab 1500. Not easy miles either. Long hard miles of hauling trailers and up and down mountains. Wore it out. It burned about a quart of oil a week. Granfather gave the truck to his son, my uncle,....His wife got pissed one day and poured a pound.....a pound.... of sugar into the tank. Truck wasnt running very well, obviously. His wife told him what she had done. He was pissed, she felt victorious. He drained the tank, cleaned the injectors, put it all back together. Truck had better compression and stopped leaking oil. Didnt slow down, Stopped leaking oil. Put another 35K miles on it before his dumb ass left his dog alone in the truck. Absouley destroyed the interior. DESTROYED. Not salvagable. Chewed off basically everything but the windows, windshield, and rear glass. Seat down to the springs, stering wheel down to the metal, dash...there was a little left, seatbelt straps shredded, shifter knob, never found it. Looked like a lawn mower had been left running inside. But the truck ran great ! :thumbsup:

German sheppard with separation anxiety.

I miss that truck.
 
I removed the "plug" from the bottom of the engine marked below with a red arrow. I tried to remove the one marked with the blue arrow but it wouldn't budge. The one I removed is magnetic and had just a little bit of junk on it. I also removed the starter and tried to remove the rhs cover and starter gear cover. The covers didn't want to come off and I didn't want to tear anything up so I stopped. I also removed the 6 screws marked with green arrows that surround the plug marked with a blue arrow. It looks like that is a cover as well but I couldn't get it to budge either. What's the best way to remove what's left of the gaskets? I don't want to scratch up the surface but I'm guessing these are the original 37 year old gaskets and they are on there good! The motor turns over easily when the kick start is moved. I don't know if that's good or bad but it does it. Thanks for the help. I can't wait to get the haynes manual I ordered.
Hey fellas,

Looking for some additional advice on how to get the sump oil filter strainer plate off. Removed all 6 screws no problem but that sucker is on there good. If it needs some "encouragement" what tool combo do you recommend to get it off?
 
Block of hard wood and a BFH. Come at it from all sides. If you can't get on a side, put the drain plug back in and put the wood against that.
 
Will it hurt the stator and rotor if I use solvent with a wash down gun to flush the crankcase?

the copper wiring in the stator and rotor are laquer coated to insulate them. if you clean them too vigerously you might end up damaging the insulation perhaps.
I'd just use an old toothbrush and something like Gunk and then wash off with soapy water rather than a pressure washer. They are very expensive components to replace.
 
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I think you guys high jacked his thread on cleaning and dogs haha
Its very cool that you want to give this a try to rebuild yourself and with a little time it can be done . Very easy motor to rebuild.
So if you have or know someone with a good phone that has face time and get into trouble you can contact me anytime and I can help you out if you need live inter action or just to ask questions. You can always get me at DADDYGCYCLES@YAHOO.COM and I will send out my number. There are many things to check while you have it apart and crank is the biggie.
I love dogs but it is a funny sticker.
 
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