camshaft oil seal replacement

jmac46

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Hi guys,
has anyone on here got a step by step guide on how to change cam seals?
I'm running points,pma & sparx capacitor with no battery.Its the part about re setting the points that's freaking me out since no battery no spark untill it runs,Oh it's the points side i want to change.
cheers :confused:
 
Not a big problem JMac, just take a fine black marker and draw a line from the plate to the housing so you know where to put it back.

Remove the two screws holding the main plate and take it off as a unit. Then replace when done.

Or take a small center punch and tap it right at the edge between the plate and housing, which leaves a small indent in each, easy then to put back in the exact same position.

Oh, and it doesn't have to be in the exact area outlined in red here, anywhere convenient will do.

Sorry for the poor pic, all I have on this computer.

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thanks brian,have been looking on here & other forums & confusing myself shitless,what with timing lights,bulbs clipped onto the wires,since reading your reply it just seems easier!
cheers again
john:thumbsup:
 
jmac46,

You could temporarily wire the coils to a separate battery so you can start the engine to help check the timing.
 
JMac the rest of the repair should go like this.

After marking your timing plate and housing for replacement after, black mark or punch mark or both.

Remove the two screws holding the main plate to the housing. Pull entire plate straight out and set aside.

Then remove the 3 screws holding the housing to the head. These will be very tight and may require an impact driver. Proper fitting phillips head screwdriver is important. Yamaha use a JIS screw type which is different than the American Standard. But most times a good fitting screwdriver will do the job.

Then with the screws out and leaving the points cam in place you should be able to pry off the housing.

Did you get a housing gasket as well as the cam seal?

Cam seal should tap out of the housing quite easily and note the position it is in so the new one goes back into the housing to the same depth. Should be flush with the back side of the housing.

Add a little oil or grease to the seal lip and with a good clean gasket, which you can cover both sides with grease, start reversing the order and install the parts back on the bike.

Good luck.
 
Give the area of the shaft that meets the seal a rubbing with a green Scotch brand Scotch Brite household cleaning pad. Works wonders making it seal for some reason.
 
Yes, old mechanic's trick. It "dresses" the sealing surface on the shaft, cleaning and smoothing it out without removing material. That gives the new seal a fresh surface to work upon.
 
There are imitation brands of it that look the same and cost half the price but aren't any good for anything.
 
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