Discussion in 'The Garage' started by inxs, Jun 12, 2010.
- anyone used these yet?...how long before the seals leak?...are they ethanol friendly?
The original "T" can be reclaimed and used again.
1. Start by stripping the rubber coating off of it.
2. Then, cut two sections of 1/4 Neoprene gas line and insert them into the cab inlets.
3. Start to press the "T" into the Neoprene inserts in each carb
4. Use a clamp to squeeze the carbs together.
5. Check the length of the Neoprene sections to ensure they are not collapsing in the carb inlets.
Take your time and pause once in a while. It's a very tight fit. Check the length of the neoprene sticking out to make sure its not collapsing in the hole.
- hmmm, well i have to say, optically its not really my cup of tea
optically, you can't even see that when installed.
- i run batteryless with k and n pods...when i look i can see it
Well, then....optically, you could do a better job of cleaning the rubber off of the "T" than I did and cut the neoprene neater than I did and there are even other colors of neoprene available (like, blue) so you could make it optically, like, you know...look better...(optically speaking).
- personally i dont like either solution...i dont trust the exposed junction of the oem part, nor do i like the weak looking seals on the brass replacement...think i will turn the pieces up, thread the inlet into the cross pipe and braize it, cut steps into both ends of the cross pipe and sleeve them with similar neoprene pipe
I'm using that brass one from mikes. It leaked when I first put it on, so i went to the hardware store and got some more rubber gaskets. Doubled them up and it tightened right up. No problems so far.
Great idea Pamcopete, With a bit more time and effort could be made to look (optically) great.
This would be a good thread for the tech section or handy hints
Is that a nice way of saying, "that looks like shit" ?
bwahahahahaha thats what I was thinking and mines a very stripped down version and its still hidden w/ the backbone. if it really bothered him he could paint it flat black easily and it would dissapeer completely.
edit: I should keep reading the thread before replying, I see where he didnt like the construction either, okies. I'll shut up now
just as a note - i found that either t will leak a tiny bit if put in dry until the fuel causes them to swell and seat. I solved that by putting a bit of grease on the rings before installation. Which made them easier to put in too. Ymmv.
good advice. never install any o-ring without lube
I took a razor, and cut the rubber off of the stock cross pipe on each end up to it's bulge. I slipped two small "o" rings on each end and pressed it back together. It never leaked, and it looks stock.
How did you use the gaskets? I tried using the seals it came with and when I put the T into the carbs, the seals were too large. Also, the smaller ones wouldn't let it slide in either. Do you have any pictures?
I have been running mikes setup for about 6yrs, 4000 to 6000 miles a year lots of ethanol gas. no leaks yet. I never really liked the way it fit, and like you worried it would not work, but it has been working fine for me.
I will certainly re-use the stock tee with the gas line on mystock bikes, that looks like a better setup to me.
How did you end up running the brass T with those seals that are too big for anything?
its been a long time. I may have trimed them down? it seems they where a very tight fit.
I was not sure it would work.
I do know the quality and consistancy of parts from mikesxs can vary. Some stuff is just junk and a waste of time and money I have learned never toss \the stock parts,the resourceful people on here figure out how to repair the better stock part and share.
I thought about how I would fit the seals after your thread on this. One thing you could try is this. I noticed that the groove for them to go into is wide. If you could slide them to one end of the groove and hold them flat into the groove it might allow it to go in. The seals would make a cup when they expanded inside the carb. It might be best if the cup was facing the carb side. A helper could wrap a string around the seal to hold it down til it was started in. It just depends on how deep the groove is.
I think with the brass t and washers in Mikes kit(post 1) the o-ring/washer goes in the hole and the T butts up to it. The ring on the T is to center it in the hole.
I used some small o-rings this way to seal a leaking oem "T".
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