Although I've not tried it, I think an original may be able to be repaired by putting a couple layers of shrink tubing on each end. Let it hang off slightly so it curls down over the end when shrunk. All the original has is a thin rubber coating and that seals fine. If you look in the hole in the carb, you'll see it has a beveled bottom. Forcing the rubber coated end of the tee into that bevel is what makes the seal.
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Carb T-connector
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HeritageJeff
XSasperation... learnin'
Dusty (if you're still on here)... where did you get the right O-rings for it? Were they buna (nitrile) rings?
(Saw some posts about the "neoprene rubber sleeve" fix, but neoprene's not recommended for fuel contact*, so would rather try your solution - makes more sense...)
* http://www.marcorubber.com/materialguide.htm
Thanks for any and all replies!
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
Not sure why this particular source says that. Just Google Neoprene fuel lines and see what comes up. Must be a lot of people who got it wrong.
Interesting. I wonder if it lost prominence due to the advent of more modern materials...
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
OK. I did some more Googling and found a variety of opinions, but what it all boils down to is that there are various neoprene's whose chemical make up is different. What you have to do is find out if the particular neoprene hose you are using is suitable for both gasoline and ethanol. I think that some of the earlier formulated neoprene hoses were not resistant to ethanol. I would have thought that they would have a different name for neoprene that is OK for both gasoline and ethanol. So, some of the entities that rate materials as suitable for use with various chemicals take the easy way out and list neoprene as unsuitable for gasoline, and I did find several lists that said just that. So, I stand corrected because not all neoprene products are suitable for gasoline containing ethanol.
HeritageJeff
XSasperation... learnin'
Great research! (maybe I should have done a little more of that myself 
)
I ended up doing the "double o-rings at each end" fix...
No leakage! Works great!
Thanks for all you guys help!
Posted via Mobile
)I ended up doing the "double o-rings at each end" fix...
No leakage! Works great!
Thanks for all you guys help!
Posted via Mobile
itsatoy
XS650 Addict
My advanced auto doesn't carry it anymore and everything I see on ebay is 1/4 x 1/2 (not 3/8).
The above fix is the same as the one by Pamcopete, but optically more pleasing.
This is helpful for those who like a visual instruction. The XS1100 carburetors are virtually (but not precisely) the same as those in the XS650.
Macmorgan
XS650 Member
I've been working on the leaking T-connector issue realizing that as the oem fitting ages, the covering shrinks and leakage occurs. A brass fitting was ordered from Mikes XS and installed last week only to also start leaking. Mike's T comes 2 flat "rubber" sealing washers. Upon inspection I found both washers folded up and inside the fuel inlet passage of both carburetors. I then replaced the washer with nitril o-rings only to have the same thing happen... but why? The oem T seals around the circumference of the T where the raised ridges are. Mike's brass T fitting is assuming that the rubber washers placed inside of the fuel inlet orifice are going to seal against the end of the T and the "seat" of the inlet passage. Unfortunately that "seat" (approximately 1/4" inside the inlet) was probably machined with a bit that creates a counter-sunk surface that allows the washers and o-rings to be forced further into the smaller passage resulting in the T no longer be fuel-tite. I used a couple of thin metric wave washers for the o-rings to seat against in hopes of curing the problem. I'll let you know how it works.
Mac Morgan
Mac Morgan
If you have a much less common XS1100, there is a quality solution. Why isn't this available for the XS650? My XS1100 got two of these a few years ago. No more leak...ever!
They can't seem to keep them in stock. http://www.siriusconinc.com/
They can't seem to keep them in stock. http://www.siriusconinc.com/
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Delmarva
XS650 Member
I just did this. One layer of heat shrink tubing. Made it a force fit into the carb but wasnt that tough. Still pivots and doesnt seem to leak after 20 miles or so.
checked heat shrink tubing in gasoline a while ago while exploring a petcock fix, it expands. May not be an issue here but keep an eye on it for sure. others have used tygon fuel line, actually thought that was you 5twins?
No, I think that may have been Pamcopete. If gas does make the heat shrink tubing expand, maybe that would seal it even better in the hole? One of the assembly tricks when installing the T on the BS34s is to lightly clamp the carbs together so the T is tight, then tighten the top and bottom brackets to hold it that way .....
I've had good luck re-installing originals that were still in good shape using this method. They seal up nice.
I've had good luck re-installing originals that were still in good shape using this method. They seal up nice.
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there (was) an eBayer selling nice XS650 fuel tees with o-rings also.
Was working on a radian 4 carb rack, put it all together and installed, the tee was leaking like a sieve. Peed off, I shut off the lights and went to bed. Next day (and since) it was fine. been sitting dry for a long time, fuel swelled and sealed it.
Was working on a radian 4 carb rack, put it all together and installed, the tee was leaking like a sieve. Peed off, I shut off the lights and went to bed. Next day (and since) it was fine. been sitting dry for a long time, fuel swelled and sealed it.
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I woke my xs up today after a 4 year sleep and found that the tee was leaking and after a lot of searching I managed to find this thread. I tried to separate the carbs but couldn't free the screws up on the plate bracket so was wondering if there was similar experience that could offer some guidance on removing these? The hardware was closed so tomorrow I was going to purchase a manual impact driver and give that a try along with some light heat (no oxy torch). I didn't want to jump straight to drilling/easy out as that seemed risky.
I see that Mike has an aluminium tee now - wondering if this is better than the brass model which seems to be ineffective? Reading the above I'm tempted to try using heat shrink over the stock tee.
I see that Mike has an aluminium tee now - wondering if this is better than the brass model which seems to be ineffective? Reading the above I'm tempted to try using heat shrink over the stock tee.
I think it was Pamco Pete who recommended using fuel line. Strip part of the cover off the fuel tee and put fuel line over it. Cram it into the carburetors. I couldn't tell you how long I've been running that way, but it has been a few years and the bike rarely gets ethanol.
On the other hand, I bought a pair like this for my XS1100.
Also been working great for a few years. You can get this one for XS650 from Sirius Consolidated for $15. I'm sure the new improved Mike's XS unit is good too.
On the other hand, I bought a pair like this for my XS1100.
Also been working great for a few years. You can get this one for XS650 from Sirius Consolidated for $15. I'm sure the new improved Mike's XS unit is good too.
Most of this thread is from years ago when the options were fewer. Now, you can just buy something new that works made for the purpose. I think I remember gggGary saying he just re-used the original tee as is? One member has cut a trough around the original through the plastic and used it to hold an o-ring. I used a tee from an xs850 that was a perfect fit (I hear they vary). The Mike's one in the picture looks better than his old one, which had kind of a flappy seal on it instead of o-rings, if I remember correctly.
Those four screws. It needs a hand impact driver with a #3 Phillips bit. Hold it in your lap and twist the driver ccw and hit it with about a 1 lb. hammer. The screws are hard to budge. Several years ago I wanted to replace the screws in anticipation of needing them out someday, and was only able to loosen one or two. A couple months ago when I needed them out I was able to do it with not a lot of trouble. Don't know what the difference was. I have large and small drivers and might have used the smaller one this time. If it looks like it could go west, take it to a machinist. They're miracle workers.
Those four screws. It needs a hand impact driver with a #3 Phillips bit. Hold it in your lap and twist the driver ccw and hit it with about a 1 lb. hammer. The screws are hard to budge. Several years ago I wanted to replace the screws in anticipation of needing them out someday, and was only able to loosen one or two. A couple months ago when I needed them out I was able to do it with not a lot of trouble. Don't know what the difference was. I have large and small drivers and might have used the smaller one this time. If it looks like it could go west, take it to a machinist. They're miracle workers.
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Aren't those JIS screws? It will be a lot easier with a JIS screwdriver.
Yeah #3 Phillips does it, a heat gun doesn't hurt, I think the factory uses liquid thread locker on them.
Edit for emphasis;
USE A HEAT GUN ON THESE SCREWS to loosen! They do have thread locker (loctite) on them.
Edit for emphasis;
USE A HEAT GUN ON THESE SCREWS to loosen! They do have thread locker (loctite) on them.
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