carburettors from the grave...

Ok. I looked at manual. I now know what fuel peacocks are all about. Pages 12and 13 in owner's manual.
Ok. At this point I am ready to take carburetor out. I can access all screws to do adjustments but not to remove float bowls. Should I start to take top of carbsto look at diaphragms first before taking carburetors completely out? What do you guys say?
If I remove complete carb I should then inspect everything and see what needs replacement to make sure I have everything covered.
Thanks
And sorry to you for being so ignorant .
Leo
 
It sounds like you're new to the carbs...which is fine, we all start somewhere. Try not to over think it and take your time. They will become much more familiar to you as you get more experience with them.

My advice is to take your time, take them out as a set...but work on each carb separately so you know which screw/jet/part goes to which carb. Also note the current settings you have on everything before you clean and adjust them so you have a reference point--which may or may not be in spec. For example, how many turns does it take to bottom out the air/fuel mix screw, etc.

Take pics if you're not familiar with how things go back together, and also it may be helpful to get familiar with what's inside before you open things up. Here's a video series on disassembling BS38 carbs:

Good luck
 
Getting shirty with me won't help

We are here to help............Teaching the basics that is in a manual we are not..........to complement information that is in the manual we are.

This thread is an information thread and to help with the odd question..........start a NEW thread for your problems because your knowledge level is going to require a full on thread to help you
 
Brassneck said:
It sounds like you're new to the carbs...which is fine, we all start somewhere. Try not to over think it and take your time. They will become much more familiar to you as you get more experience with them.

My advice is to take your time, take them out as a set...but work on each carb separately so you know which screw/jet/part goes to which carb. Also note the current settings you have on everything before you clean and adjust them so you have a reference point--which may or may not be in spec. For example, how many turns does it take to bottom out the air/fuel mix screw, etc.

Take pics if you're not familiar with how things go back together, and also it may be helpful to get familiar with what's inside before you open things up. Here's a video series on disassembling BS38 carbs:

Good luck
Click to expand...
Thanks. This is very helpful. I will follow videos .
Have to go into it. Once there I may need some more help and I will probably post my problems.
Leo
 
leodr......A month ago when you posted about your 82 BS34's, ( http://www.xs650.com/threads/simple-carb-mixture-screw-and-sync-adjustments.33791/page-4#post-564413 ), all this information was given to you in the way of posts, links and more links. links to the carb guide, on line manuals and part manual diagrams were posted.........

Dismissing this information, (and by re-posting really basic simple questions and the same problems in another thread is dismissing), then the people who are very versed in carbs who have helped before are not going to be inclined or bother to help again.........
 
Ok. Sorry to you guys that are maybe upset with me but I only wanted to get the most input from everyone to make sure I had a clear and concise account of the work i am really getting into. I am not dismissing info I am just compiling it for my reference and good use. Thanks again.
Now I will begin to do my work over the winter months that follow.
Leo
 
Brassneck said:
It sounds like you're new to the carbs...which is fine, we all start somewhere. Try not to over think it and take your time. They will become much more familiar to you as you get more experience with them.

My advice is to take your time, take them out as a set...but work on each carb separately so you know which screw/jet/part goes to which carb. Also note the current settings you have on everything before you clean and adjust them so you have a reference point--which may or may not be in spec. For example, how many turns does it take to bottom out the air/fuel mix screw, etc.

Take pics if you're not familiar with how things go back together, and also it may be helpful to get familiar with what's inside before you open things up. Here's a video series on disassembling BS38 carbs:

Good luck
Click to expand...
Thanks for you YouTube video reference. I am having problem taking my bs34 carbs out. I have taken cable links off and have loosened intake manifold clamp and air box clamp is that all i have to do to remove them? I have tried and am stuck here. I do not want to force anything. What is procedure to remove? I have 1982 heritage special.
Leo
 
Remove both air boxes from bike. Use silicone spray or other lube at carb rubber boot junction then wiggle, work, carbs loose. Once carbs are loose remove the rubber intakes, 2 allen bolts each, a set of long arm ball end allen wrenches is super useful here. carbs will now come out. Good to drain the float bowls before removing the carbs.
 
gggGary said:
Remove both air boxes from bike. Use silicone spray or other lube at carb rubber boot junction then wiggle, work, carbs loose. Once carbs are loose remove the rubber intakes, 2 allen bolts each, a set of long arm ball end allen wrenches is super useful here. carbs will now come out. Good to drain the float bowls before removing the carbs.
Click to expand...
gggGary said:
Remove both air boxes from bike. Use silicone spray or other lube at carb rubber boot junction then wiggle, work, carbs loose. Once carbs are loose remove the rubber intakes, 2 allen bolts each, a set of long arm ball end allen wrenches is super useful here. carbs will now come out. Good to drain the float bowls before removing the carbs.
Click to expand...
I will have to send you picture because i think i can not remove air boxes and plus i can not get at allen bolts on inside of intake manifold. Do i have to take these bolts out? I have 1982 heritage special with mikuni bs34 carbs. I will send pictures when at my bike on Wednesday.
Thanks Leo
 
The stock air boxes remove easily, they are all the same 80 to 84, three screws, one at the back, one at top (head is under seat, near gas tank). and I think one near the front bottom, then just pull box out to the side.
 
gggGary said:
The stock air boxes remove easily, they are all the same 80 to 84, three screws, one at the back, one at top (head is under seat, near gas tank). and I think one near the front bottom, then just pull box out to the side.
Click to expand...
Ok. That will make it easier to remove carbs. I will try it when I get back to my bike on Wednesday. Do I still have to remove two Allen bolts on front intake manifold?
Leo
 
I disassemble the air-box to make it easier to see the air-box joint is installed properly when reassembling.
TX650 (4E3) Parts manual 026 copy.jpg
 
leodr said:
Do I still have to remove two Allen bolts on front intake manifold?
Leo
Click to expand...
Yes, that's why my hint about buying long arm ball end allen wrenches, a set is about $7 and worth 10 times that.......
https://www.menards.com/main/tools-...60-c-9144.htm?tid=8528626182235900430&ipos=38
There's only two screws per cover, the rear are #3 NOT #2 philips, good place to use a hand impact wrench (yeah you need one of those also..) remove the bolts circled in red, just loosen the two circled in blue.

eklund allen wrenches.jpg

DSCN3076.JPG

DSCN3075.JPG


DSCN3079.JPG

Use silicone grease on all the rubbers and that white connecting tube when reinstalling. Put one air box in with the bolts just started, then put in the other side, then tighten the bolts.
 
Last edited:
Replace the lower rear screw with a longer one. The factory used screws that only catch by a thread or two. To get the carbs out, it helps if you remove the butterfly shaped bracket between the carb tops. This allows you to pull the carb set back farther before it hits the frame backbone tube.
 
leodr said:
Ok. This helps me a lot. Now to locate ball end Allen wrenches here in toronto Canada. I will goggle search. I will let you know if and when I get them.
Thanks Leo
Click to expand...

Princess Automotive (8500 Woodbine Ave, Markham, ON L3R 4X7) has them - you need the blue set (SKU 8311755 - $23.00) and they are very nice tools indeed.

8311755.jpg
 
You don't absolutely have to remove those manifolds, the carbs will come out with them still in place. It's just sort of a "Rubik's Cube" affair, lol. You have to twist and turn and maneuver the carb set just right. Along with removing that bracket between the carb tops, it helps to remove the cap nut on the cam chain adjuster too, also the throttle cable holder bracket on the left carb.
 
I will try to get them out without getting long arm ball end Allen wrench to remove intake manifold to see if I can.
Tenaquip also has Eklind wrenches here in Belleville but have to order them 2 weeks.
If I can not remove them i will see if Canadian tire has them and if not princess auto for sure.
Leo
 

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