CB project

That coating is probably loaded with Aluminum flake. On application the flakes settle out parallel with the surface. When fuel tries to diffuse through the coating its path is blocked by the flakes. It cannot diffuse sideways to get around the flake because the concentration gradient driving diffusion is perpendicular to the coating. If you ever want to paint pine with lots of knots full of resin the same principal applies when you pre-coat the knots with Aluminum paint. The flakes block the diffusion path of the resin. I believe those clear knot treatments contain micaceous talc which is in a flake form. The POR15 contains a urethane resin which once cured does not dissolve or swell/soften in the fuel. Because the urethane is moisture cured leave the tank as open as possible with good air circulation to allow that humidity to get in.

I hope your leaks are sorted now and good to hear the engine is coming on fine.
 
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Trying to start the damn thing today and as usual it starts right up on starter fluid but can’t get it to run on gas from an IV bottle. I started messing with the points plate because I was getting a little kick back. Turned the advance all the way up and it tried to run or maybe I just thought it was. I then noticed a small bit of smoke coming from the controls where the starter button is. Damn thing is shorted now and I have to turn the key off to get it to stop. Just one more thing to deal with. Of course the switch is NLA so I’ll see if my parts guy has a control lying around. Go figure, I sold the one from my parts bike. One thing I did pick up from him though. A set of front forks with a wheel, caliper and disk for a ‘71 XS for $50. Just in case I ever have a problem with the front brake on my ‘’72 I’m pretty sure those are the same and seemingly rare if I’m not mistaken.
 
Trying to start the damn thing today and as usual it starts right up on starter fluid but can’t get it to run on gas from an IV bottle. I started messing with the points plate because I was getting a little kick back. Turned the advance all the way up and it tried to run or maybe I just thought it was. I then noticed a small bit of smoke coming from the controls where the starter button is. Damn thing is shorted now and I have to turn the key off to get it to stop. Just one more thing to deal with. Of course the switch is NLA so I’ll see if my parts guy has a control lying around. Go figure, I sold the one from my parts bike. One thing I did pick up from him though. A set of front forks with a wheel, caliper and disk for a ‘71 XS for $50. Just in case I ever have a problem with the front brake on my ‘’72 I’m pretty sure those are the same and seemingly rare if I’m not mistaken.
I believe the 71 was a drum brake, so if you have disk and caliper, it's prolly 72 or newer.
 
I was told the parts bike was titled as a ‘71
Title may be for a 71. Lot of parts in the pics are newer.
upload_2020-6-19_7-58-15.png
Left lower for leg is 73 or newer. 72s didn't have caliper mounts on left leg.

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rear shocks and rim are newer than 73
upload_2020-6-19_8-1-58.png
breather newer than 72
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4 hole exhaust 72 or newer, comp release 72 or 73 only. Wonder if the engine has a starter motor?
upload_2020-6-19_8-5-11.png
right controls with lever for comp release 72 or 73
upload_2020-6-19_8-8-39.png
top triple tree newer than 72.
 
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Left lower for leg is 73 or newer. 72s didn't have caliper mounts on left leg.

upload_2020-6-19_8-0-23-png.170137
rear shocks and rim are newer than 73

I'd say its time for a new set of tires on this old Honda and the chain seems to be missing....;)
 
Good question GLJ. Unfortunately I had my eye on the caliper and disc, couldn’t see the lower part of the leg in the pic. I did notice it’s a barrage of parts from different years.
 
While I’m still waiting on that tank to cure I need to pull apart that control and check the starter push button. Hopefully I can clean it and figure out why it’s shorting, other wise I’ll have to get another switch. I can buy another set of controls even if they don’t match and probably use a different switch but does anyone sell replacements for something like that?
 
Thanks coupon but really, how hard can it be. A button, a spring and two contacts. If I can’t repair it I’ll just get another that works. I shouldn’t have sold the controls from my donor bike.
 
Alright, did my week away from things. Tomorrow is the big day! Fill it with gas and see. I need to check and see if I’m getting gas to the carbs, recheck my timing and give her a go. Oh yea and I need to check that switch. I keep forgetting about that. I think Im gonna call this bike “ problem child”
 
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Something I’m seeing while putting things back together, I’m going to have to clean out the inside of the fuel petcick tube. With the coating inside it the screen filter now no longer fits.
 

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Got the tank back on and no leaks. Timing is spot on and advance weights move freely. I took the switch apart and even with sausage fingers I was able to take it apart, clean it up and put a light coating of dielectric grease on everything. It was pretty nasty in there and those tiny pieces were not easy to handle but it seems to be working fine now. I put gas to the carbs and pulled the bowl Screws out to check for fuel. #4 was the only one that appeared to be try so I tapped on the bowl to see if the needle was sticking. I let it sit for a moment and it tried really hard to start! I ended up running the battery down because these bikes don’t have the kicker. I am still seriously thinking about ditching this project but it’s just not in my nature to throw in the towel when I feel I’m really close. One small breakthrough is all I’m asking for!.
 
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