CHAIN LUBE....who uses what?

JAX71224

jax71224
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I'll start ....Maxima Chain Wax ....Because it has served well for 3 or 4 chains at about 20k more or less for each in miles. Usually on 'O' ring chains,and a couple of different bikes. really 3 different ones.
 
Good stuff but they lie. Wish it stuck to the chain as well as it sticks to the rim.:popcorn:
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I'll start ....Maxima Chain Wax ....Because it has served well for 3 or 4 chains at about 20k more or less for each in miles. Usually on 'O' ring chains,and a couple of different bikes. really 3 different ones.

Maxima Chain Wax here too. Used it on three bikes now, been very happy with it. But chain lube is like an oil thread, everybody likes something different! Haha! :laugh2:
 
I've been mostly shafties for the past 30 years and the XS my only current bike with a chain. However, back before I started buying shafties, I was absolutely convinced of the efficacy of a Scott Oiler and was fitting them back then on bikes I was doing large milages on.
Without buying expensive chains, I was able to go huge mileages on a chain. Indeed the last chainy bike I sold had 30,000 miles on its chain and had only been adjusted once, with plenty of adjustment left. I reckon that chain was probably good for 50,000.
When I bought the XS I was pleased to see it was already fitted with a Scott, and if it hadn't been I'd have bought one for it.
Running cost of the oiler are minimal if you don't pay the rip-off prices for their branded oil - I just use chainsaw oil, bought by the litre or 4L container.
 
That chain wax may be fine for an o-ring chain that has it's own lube sealed into it, but I found it to be the kiss of death for a normal, standard chain. It just coats the outside surfaces and doesn't penetrate or lube between the plates or in the rollers. The chain I used it on kinked all up and was trashed in no time. Now, maybe they've improved it since because it was many years ago that I tried it. But that one bad experience was enough to turn me off on the stuff for good. There's too many other options out there. The lube I ended up with and still use to this day is Kal-Gard Chain Kote. It contains moly and seems to work better than any other I've tried. And I stumbled upon it quite by accident. I needed chain lube so ordered some from the JC Whitney catalog. All the description said was chain lube, no brand name or anything. The Kal-Gard is what they sent me and I haven't used any other brand since. And we're talking a good 20 years or more here.
 
Wasn’t there a model of XS that ran the engine vent hose into a hole on the left side cover to vent oil fumes onto the front sprocket?
 
I've been mostly shafties for the past 30 years and the XS my only current bike with a chain. However, back before I started buying shafties, I was absolutely convinced of the efficacy of a Scott Oiler and was fitting them back then on bikes I was doing large milages on.
Without buying expensive chains, I was able to go huge mileages on a chain. Indeed the last chainy bike I sold had 30,000 miles on its chain and had only been adjusted once, with plenty of adjustment left. I reckon that chain was probably good for 50,000.
When I bought the XS I was pleased to see it was already fitted with a Scott, and if it hadn't been I'd have bought one for it.
Running cost of the oiler are minimal if you don't pay the rip-off prices for their branded oil - I just use chainsaw oil, bought by the litre or 4L container.

Hi Grimly,
great minds think alike, eh?
Me too with the ScottOiler and chainsaw cutter bar oil which is not only far cheaper than the branded oil, I swear it's the same stuff.
Similarly, my bike's chain hasn't needed any adjustment since the ScottOiler install.
 
fwiw Maxima Chain Wax, clean chain with WD40.

Trialing Dupont Chain Saver (which is dryer. Got Dupont Chain Cleaner ascombo.
Mixed feelings. Dupont seems to work well and is less messy (but you are supposed to wait half hour after application. (usually lube at end of ride anyway.. Since it is hard to tell it is there may be lubing too often.

Maxima just works but can build up.
 
Wasn’t there a model of XS that ran the engine vent hose into a hole on the left side cover to vent oil fumes onto the front sprocket?
75 for sure and I think the 74 also. EPS regs killed that idea?
About ANYTHING that gets applied regularly works fine LOL.
You local farm store sells open gear chain and wire lube, thick moly grease thinned with solvent in a spray can CHEAP. Perfect for non o-ring chain. Good modern chain is so much better than the 70-80's crap Yamaha put on the bikes it's hard to believe the difference.
Want to strip the lube off a new non o-ring chain and soak it in a TDS solvent bath, dry then use moly lube, but I'd have a hard time doing a 20,000 mile test on any one bike.
 
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Here's my 2cents worth: On my 2002 Yamaha FZ-1, I changed the chain and sprocket at 50K miles. Most chains last around 25K miles I am told. So, am I a lazy cuss who does not perform preventive maintenance and risk death and destruction by neglecting changing the chain sooner? Maybe not. When I started riding dirt bikes at 15 on a race circuit, an older racer told me that taking care of the chain was one of the easiest to do and most neglected items on the bike. He gave me a chain brush, (Back then it was just a wire brush shaped like a tooth brush). A few years later when I got chained street bike, RD350, I decided to carry on the practice. Every chained bike since then gets a regular cleaning and bath. Back to the FZ-1, the chain was thoroughly cleaned every 500 miles with WD-40 and a brush like the one below and lubed with one of the Yamaha lubes also like the one below. After each ride in the rain, it got cleaned and lubed again. This added double the life of chain and sprockets. Cleaning and oiling on a regular basis seems to be the best regardless of the oil used, just do it.

MC Chain Brush.jpg
MC Chain lube.jpg
 
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Chain "wax" tends to create those little black buggars that get flung all over ! Yuck.
I agree with
Cleaning and oiling on a regular basis seems to be the best regardless of the oil used, just do it.
A big advantage of having a centerstand is easy cleaning of the chain, rear sprocket, and the wheel . I prefer to just drip a little oil, whatever oil you prefer, right out of a bottle such as this on a fresh clean chain. 20181207_083356.jpg 20170509_105926.jpg
 
Proper preventive maintenance prevents this...
View attachment 131196
Hi Boog,
and I thought my own "horrible example" was as bad as it could get
IMG_0008.JPG
VF750F "these bikes need their chain kept real tight"
Same bike had it's push-pull throttle fixed to work on a single cable.
"You'll soon get used to the reversed twistgrip"
I told my son not to buy it but would he listen?
 
Nooooooooooo. LOL

Hi Gary,
he had to have one because his older brother already did. Although that one was in better shape but Oh how I got to hate those VF750F Hondas!
Bolting lights & signals on a racebike don't make it suitable for the street because the average owner don't have a team of Honda-trained mechanics
to keep it running. And Gawd were they a pain to work on.
 
Has anyone had anything to do with Wurth HHS 2000 https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffcm&q=Wurth+HHS2000&ia=web to use on their chains.

Been reading it is good shit, and chains last a long time.............. Looked on FleeceBay......$42 per can.:yikes: :(


Found the Aussie distributor with a phone no.
https://eshop.wurth.com.au/Product-...2000/31023008060303.cyid/3102.cgid/en/GB/AUD/

No PayPal option on the site so rang them to see if they would do PayPal...........no, but the reception lady gave me a Phone no of a rep. Just so happens he works the Cairns/tablelands and south area, was coming to stay at mission beach, for 2 nights, staying at the resort where i do some work. Comes around every 2 weeks and had a couple of cans in the car. .....Sells a can for $16.00.........got 2 ........so will see how they go.
 
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