charging system dead

I think that's a really early pump in your pic. the later ones don't have that pressure relief there. so 9 through 12 aren't used.
#14 dowel pin (2) are usually in either the pump body or the side cover.
A later pump assembly.
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I don't think you're missing anything. Later pumps don't have parts 9 through 12, and I see 5 and 14 in the eBay pic of what you bought. All you might still be missing is that tach drive rod shim washer I mentioned earlier.
 
So I was able to recover my old cover from my welder. It had my friggin oil filter, housing, and oil pump. Wasted $50’on ebay for another oil pump but whatever. Now I have a backup set.

First problem is the diagram doesnt clearly indicate if the driven gear (7) is flat side up or down. Also the spirally coil that sits on the driven gear (btwn 7&9) could be up or down.

Lastly, how do you separate the tacho cable from the housing piece with the red o-ring without the use of pliers that damage it? It’s very stuck and I dont feel like breaking another one!

thanks

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I just happen to have the answer for that, courtesy of Robin c
ROBINS NUTS.png
PM your address, I'll send them along, just pass it along when the day comes.
PS the good news is that oil pump stuff will only go together and fit, in the correct order and orientation.
 
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Stick that sleeve with the red o-ring back in the case and pin it in place with it's special mounting bolt (turned down tip). Then you will need to use pliers on the tach cable knurled nut to get it loose. Those 2 jam nuts Gary may send you are for getting the threaded sleeve out of the one with the red o-ring once you have the cable removed, or out of the cable if it happens to come apart stuck in there instead.
 
Wheww! Yeah 5twin I do have that little washer.

Okay, time to put this sucker together with the help of some random guy on youtube


Hey blank slate !...............that Random Guy 'blimeyolriley' is me ! :laugh2:
glad to hear it was useful.

that engine sure sounds good .....just a bit of fine tuning now I expect
 
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why thank you kind Sir ..:)

Peanut puffs up his chest, sharpens his claws and promptly collapses in a fit of coughing.

I do cringe sometimes at some of the errors and omissions in some of those early videos. I made them as I went along renovating my first XS650 .
Moments when your mind goes completely blank as it searches for a simple word ....like..... what you pull to operate the clutch ..........
errrrrrrrr ? ummmmmm ? dammit ......ah! 'lever' ....thats the word I was searching for lol:redface:
 
I hear you peanut "stage fright" I have it in the "are my forks bent?" video. Eventually you get to the I don't give a shite stage. WER do a "brute force pulling" an engine video for us?

I wish it was stage frite G ............I think its more to do with old age and an increasingly poor short term memory. .............errr ...what was It I was saying ?
 
Aaaaaaand Im back....
I thought I fixed the charging issue by buying a new rotor from custom rewind and installing new brushes. But today my left side started smoking. Battery is 1 year old with 0 miles ridden on it. Yep this bike has not gone out for a ride in almost a year. Sad!

I fixed the clutch
I fixed the seat latch
I fixed the chain tightness
I fixed the front brake

OK i have a theory.

When I removed the cover there was blue glue all around the cover. Some of this debris might have fallen into the rotor area. I know for sure some gasket remover spray went into behind the rotor. So maybe it’s just that? Do I burn through it?
 

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Smoke indicates higher that normal engine operating temperature or electrical faults i.e. shorted wires burning. Did you locate exactly where the smoke was coming from. If so then check the wiring carefully in that area for melted insulation. I find it hard to imagine smoke escaping from the rotor compartment because it is usually well sealed. If the fiber covered wires to the rotor/stator look OK then check further up the harness where they change to normal PVC insulation. Look closely at the rotor for heat damaged epoxy and varnish. Also check the braiding on the brushes to see if they have turned dark from over heating.

In your photo is that a reflection on the stator wire just to the left of the Full Advance mark or is it were insulation varnish has come off due to heat. When I enlarge this photo the wires in this area look charred. But this may just be an illusion. On my alternator those wires are covered in thick clear epoxy whereas your wires look not to be coated.
 
tell us what preceded the burning . Was it as you started up ? or was it after riding a few miles and the engine had got hot ?
Is it smoking oil ? or smoke from an electrical wire overheating/shorting out

If you have had the cover off and the stator , the first place that I would check is to see if you have pinched any of the stator wiring loom under the edge of the stator ......its easily done .
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Peanut: I could not start the bike, so I cleaned the spark plugs with electrical contact cleaner, dried them, put them in, and tried to start the bike with full throttle and it finally got started. I was letting it idle normally and after 20 seconds I saw whitish grey smoke. Image attached.

Now I idled the bike yesterday just fine, but could not go for a ride because I had no brakes. Now I fixed the brakes and it’s smokey. The only thing I touched on the left side was removing the blue gasket glue with gasket remover from the cover. Im sure some particles ended up behind the rotor, I guess Im going to take my chances of frying the entire bike by going for a spirited ride (cross fingers)

ps: i think i fixed that oil spill by tightening a bolt under the bike. hmmmmm. maybe that’s the cause...
 

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