Did ANYONE ever come up with a fixture for mounting to a regular engine stand, seems engine would be easier to reassemble the bottom end upside down with the shift forks and all. Fixin to start tearing down my extra motor for a rephrased rebuild.

:thumbsup:

YES! I did them well over a year ago. I had 4 prototypes and I even have inventory of the final design, but never posted them for sale. :doh: I planned to powder coat them and I guess that's what held me up. I'll sell them bare though. They'll work on regular engine stands and the cheap harbor freight engine stands that have a slightly different slot pattern. They come with hardware. I'll try to post them in the next day or so.
 
Here's a pic of one side the bracket. It's all I have for pictures right now but I'll post more soon.
 

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It most definitely does. The brackets support the engine from two places instead of just the upper rear motor mount. It'll make sense once I get a few more pictures posted.
 
I had some aluminum sign post material someone gave me and made a DIY stand that worked quite well. Light steel angle iron and some hardwood would do the same thing. No welding required.
 

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Sorry I misunderstood. It allows the engine to invert, but the brackets I've designed won't really allow you to support the upper case half only and remove the lower case half becuase the lower mounts will be in the way. It uses both the upper and lower rear mounts. It would be good for top-end work, getting at the sump and starter, and for making a test stand. I guess if you have bare cases, you might be able to skip the bolt for the lower mount and tilt the upper case to allow access to to install the lower case. Once I post the pictures you'll have to see if it will work for you.
 
Here are some more pictures. You could probably rotate the engine upside-down then remove the bolt for the lower mount and tilt the engine down to remove the lower case.

There is just enough clearance for the left side cover. The last attachment shows the typical style of engine stand the brackets will bolt to. They'll also bolt to the cheap harbor freight stand shown in the pictures which uses a different slot pattern.

The brackets are unpainted and come with all the hardware. $55 plus $10 for priority shipping in the U.S.

Email me at sales@chopsource.com if you want to order.
 

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Travis, NICE part !!! Was just thinking that IF those brackets were cut in half with some L bracing welded onto the top part to extend it out over the top of the case up against it, one could bolt it all up to the stand then when flipped over it would have the L bracing to keep it from falling forward, and the bottom 1/2 of the bracket could be removed to allow the case to be separated.

As soon as my funds recover a bit from the federal employee furlough that just ended, I will be hitting you up for a set.

:thumbsup:
 
There never really was a good stand here for flipping the engine over and accessing the bottom end. That one on the 1st page had the idea but was so weakly built, I wouldn't hang a Honda 90 from it, lol. I've given this lots of thought and built a very good one. I'll post some pics shortly.
 
OK, a little teaser. First off, I'll explain a little bit about my thoughts and design for this thing. I borrowed and expanded upon earlier posts, for the better I think. That original "spinner" on page one was way too weak in my opinion. No bracing for the uprights, too thin square tubing, and not a structural thing but the engine didn't sit level. The car motor mount gave me the pipe-rotating-in-pipe idea. I addressed all the obvious shortcomings and more with mine .....

PJQGDhg.jpg


The front and upper rear engine mounts are offset like 2 1/4". To spin easily, you want the pivot tubes in line. To make the motor still sit level, I offset the front mount down 1 1/4" and the rear up 1". I was surprised how easily it turned. It got even better after I gave it a few shots of grease .....

vI9XC1z.jpg
 
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The uprights on that original stand had no bracing what so ever. What were they thinking? Obviously they weren't, or not enough at least. But I can't really fault them. Most people have no idea how to build things right and strong enough for the intended purpose. I've been in the heavy construction business for 30+ years (Union Ironworker and proud of it - We Built America) so I know a little about building things. I know what works, what makes buildings stand up and what makes them fall down. On a much smaller scale, here's how I braced my uprights so they wouldn't flex .....

9cTANol.jpg


The triangular plate and the square tube extends below the frame and is tied together with a long length of all-thread. The plate braces the tube against side to side flex. The all-thread allows me to adjust the distance between the uprights and also holds them from flexing in.
 
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Now that is AWSOME !!!

I am going to see if I can make a removable attachment on my current engine stand to be able to do like yours. my stand has already been modified and will accept Detroit type motors, modified to allow its use with German flat motors mostly VW but accepts Porsche and Subaru too, now to adapt it for the XS, AND still have it able to be broken down and stored away in the attic when not in use.

AWSOME JOB !


:thumbsup:
 
OK, now that the oil's drained, some shots of this thing's true purpose .....

6VraldQ.jpg


AaUvhZT.jpg


This is my parts bike motor. I figured I'd pull the oil filters and sump plate for use as spares on my runner. I'm getting another parts motor shortly that does need to be split because the small eyes on the rods are worn. That will be my 1st foray into one of these bottom ends.
 
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These motors are quite heavy so it helps to have your stand on wheels so you can easily move it around. I used some 5" solid rubber wheels I pulled out of a dumpster at a frozen food factory we were working at. Way over-kill but hey, the price was right, lol. There was absolutely nothing wrong with these other than a little wear on the tires and they were dirty. They weren't bent or broken or anything. Amazing the good stuff they throw out at these plants. These have grease fittings on the axles and on the swivel. I cleaned them all up, pumped in some fresh grease, and they're like new.

The pivot arms were made from the double thick front downtubes from an untitled 650 frame I had. The green tubes they turn in are scraps from a hand rail. The turning arm is a solid steel galvanized bar I found on some job, probably from a chain link fence. It had the knob on the one end and the hole through the other so I could hitch pin the washer on .....

22xHgRU.jpg
 
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Hers what I did to the basic plans posted by alfredo to enable the top half of the case to be held upside down while assembling the crank/gearset.

I did not want to re-invent the wheel so came up with a simple mod to the already built stand. Please forgive the cheap-arsed chinese steel used for this stand...twas all I had lying around when I built it & there is plans to build a beefier one when time permits.....one day....maybe...

1. Bolt on pieces of angle at the other end to allow for fitment of the upper case half to the stand, but will easily unbolt to then allow the lower half to be installed for top end work.
full


2.Tensioner would need to be left out

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3.Works for me.

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Regards.:thumbsup:
 
I made these. The first one was tacked together with a motor case to get dimensions. The second was made with measurements from the first. Someone wrote and said the dimensions were wrong but it works for me? A little taller and wider then others. Stable and allows bottom access. Fits real nice on a Harbor Frieght $8.99 dolley.

XSStand1.jpg

XSStand2.jpg

Hey guys, I'm looking to have my Dad knock up a stand for me (top bloke, my Dad) and was considering a modified design that allows for easier postage by flat packing the frame and then assembling it upon arrival. In order to do this I'm considering adjusting the location of the uprights and was wondering if there is a reason why I couldn't locate the taller uprights from being 3.75" apart to 7" apart to match the shorter set? Obviously it would be more sturdy to locate them as they are above, but so long as I have a long enough bolt it should work, right?

Happy to have input from wiser and more experienced heads than mine!
 
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