Cleaner Engine Stand Plans

[TwoJugs]

Hers what I did to the basic plans posted by alfredo to enable the top half of the case to be held upside down while assembling the crank/gearset.

I did not want to re-invent the wheel so came up with a simple mod to the already built stand. Please forgive the cheap-arsed chinese steel used for this stand...twas all I had lying around when I built it & there is plans to build a beefier one when time permits.....one day....maybe...

1. Bolt on pieces of angle at the other end to allow for fitment of the upper case half to the stand, but will easily unbolt to then allow the lower half to be installed for top end work.

2.Tensioner would need to be left out

3.Works for me.

Regards.

looks good but many motors still have the cylinder studs in the cases so they need clearance for them.

 

[Dax 650]

Thanks for the info tonyc, really appreciate the help!

 

[270YAM]

Here is my bench mounted engine stand.
It is made from a piece of 1/2" plate and some old Yamaha engine mounts.
It pivots on a 5/8" bolt, so it can be locked off in any position.
For assembling the gearbox in the top half of the case I just prop up underneath the case with a piece of wood. Ones the bottom end is assembled and I can use the 2 mounting points, it's solid as. No flex or movement, no wheels, and nothing underneath.
There is nothing worse than tripping over shit when trying to build an engine.

 

[hotdog]

I spy a 1000cc 2-stroke motor & are they z9-z1 clutch covers I see.....

 

[270YAM]

You don't know where I live ....
Geez you got a good eye! Bet not many others could identify that big ugly 2 stroke..
And it's K Z 900 on here, this is 'Murica

 

[ygt9]

If someone is looking to built a stand go to your local dealer that carries metric bikes and they will have a ton of crate metal. The HD and Polaris unit come in crates that go back. I work at a Yamaha dealer and I have grabbed hundreds of pounds of crate metal to build stuff. I have build a engine stand, benches, shelves, metal racks, etc. out of crate metal. Just a hint.

 

[Bob Ellis UK]

As regards the original plans in the OP. They musst be the most commonly used set. However....
The 5 and seven eighths and the 5 and a half dimensions don't make sense, that's 3 eighths of an inch above the hole centre to the top of the piece.

Shum mishtake Shurely

 

[kevski]

This was my one use only engine stand and it allowed me to do everything I needed, and cost only the electricity used as everything else was free or scrap.

 

[650Skull]

Your a brave man kevski. Lost a few barrows of cement in my time and the center of gravity was way lower than that motor. when i see that pic i shudder at the images that cross my mind of what the engine would look like after it went down.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Ditto. I've lost my fair share of soil and cement with a wheelbarrow.

Outrigger wheels would make it safer (for me anyways)...

 

[kevski]

Never lost a barrow of anything in my life, this was made to suit the geography and cleaning purposes only, the rest of the work was done on the bench.
P.S you guys need less beer when handling barrows.

 

[Smeggy]

Here's my contribution to the idea pool, though prob ideas all subliminally knocked from you beautiful people and this very same web site ages ago. So fk. I try to recycle. So, the engine stand is kitchen worktop sink cutout, castors off something, tubing off a cheap office desk. Fkd up there - I am an amateur welder - I blew that office desk box section to bits like I was trying to arc weld two wet shites. Had to put down the welder and buy t-shaped brackets and a bag of bolts. Had to retro add that kink to one post when the starter's big connector caught me out. And yes, my house stinks and not all the dog's fault. The bogey for the frame is proper mild steel 40mm box, and I bought the rubber, bearing-ed 75mm wheels £3 each - Screwfix, UK. My favourite thing about my bogey is the wooden blocks in the square tube - only intended to accommodate the awkward rise of the front tubes and be kind to the paint, they make re-adjustment all ways easy. That middle spar across the bogey is where it is, more middle than rearmost, so I can use my little bottle jack when I draw the bogey out the way. I graciously bow while absorbing your applause now reverse off the stage to hit the nearest tavern and get fkd drunk man. Yer all loved, and seriously, this web site is the internet at it's best. I bought my xs in 1985 when I was 19 yr old. I had my Haynes manual and NOTHING else. No-one to talk to. Ebay makes my re-build affordable - you beautiful people keep me right.

 

[59Tebo]

Very nicely done, Smeggy! I especially like the 'frame cart'. My frame is on a motorcycle table I built (see "The Basketcase - Episode I : A Slow-Motion Build" in 'The Garage' section of the Forums), but it would be a lot handier on a cart like yours. I like it!

 

[Jan_P]

OK Gentlemen
I made an attempt .that perhaps someone can have use for.
This is so to speak a " prototype " on pictures
Perhaps a couple of Whacks with a sledge hammer would help..
And a few more spacers. Paint ..
Made it yesterday , and think it is above expectations so far.
It is low budget and so far dont need to weld. Even though i have that possibility not everyone have it ..
The bottom is from some sort of an armchair. -- pulled it out from a container., dumpster.
That is perhaps the most useful idea in this. The rest is not that complicated finding the other iron parts.
I think any barstool or even better Barbershop chair with pedals and adjustment possibilities would
be excellent. ( OK that might cost a bit )
The blue ones , from some sort of angle bracket for putting up shelves in a garage or workshop.
Could also be a bit thicker
The galvanized ones I do believe are used in Construction ..Building Wooden houses
for connecting Wooden beams
bought a set on a flea market for peanuts. Those are strong.
( I live in Europe Sweden , not sure the availability in USA , so if the English is weird i apologize
so please look at the pictures ) .
Its a bit on the weak side. The plate on the top of the chair is 5 mm about 1/5 inch
Thicker would not hurt . On the other hand these chairs are made to also carry
people above 200 pounds .And the engine in total dont weigh that much.
It rotates around a vertical axle. Not sure if that is good or bad. But I found it useful when cleaning.
Turning helps to get light in.
I dont believe it would flex to much depending .What job one does.
It can be on top of the workbench or on the ground.
There is the possibility to reinforce The bolts are long enough and Welding is Possible.
I also use these type of undercarriages for making a toolplank.
I often do work outside .. With the tools on a movable plank I save time and walking
Had a transmission chain breakage ..or more correct the joint .. It smashed into the seal holding place .. Thats why i am in this situation.
So that is a recommendation. If in doubt replace the chain

 

[gggGary]

I like it!

 

[toglhot]

The only ones I've ever seen losing a wheelbarrow are girls. Pushing a barrow is not rocket science.

 

[toglhot]

I pushed barrows for a living for many years, first as a brickie's labourer, then as a concreter, then working as a labourer working on laying sewerage pipes, wheeling barrows across ditches on 12" wide planks. In WA, where I was at the time, the ground is sandy, just like the beach, so to get around building sites you had to get a running start barrowing mud and bricks. Last time I used a barrow was about 11 years ago when I helped my shed builder barrow concrete up the front drive and around the back. I was 60 years old then, never dropped a barrow in my life. Matter of fact I've never seen a bloke drop one.

 

[toglhot]

Nope, I tell a lie: Sometime around the early 70s when I was working as a labourer laying sewerage pipes through Rivervale, a young university student working part time on the job to earn some cash, great big bloke (but weak as piss), dropped a barrow full of concrete on a guy working under the plank. It was a job stopping the guy from pummelling the crap out of him.

 

[HelmetTester]

I pushed barrows for a living for many years, first as a brickie's labourer, then as a concreter, then working as a labourer working on laying sewerage pipes, wheeling barrows across ditches on 12" wide planks. In WA, where I was at the time, the ground is sandy, just like the beach, so to get around building sites you had to get a running start barrowing mud and bricks. Last time I used a barrow was about 11 years ago when I helped my shed builder barrow concrete up the front drive and around the back. I was 60 years old then, never dropped a barrow in my life. Matter of fact I've never seen a bloke drop one.

Must have been pushing half barrows then

Found this diagram that might help since all the ones I’ve found look to be scanned with a potato.

 

[HelmetTester]

Couple more minutes searching and found an even better version, hopefully helps someone out