Closing the crankcase Check list & torque sequence

[peanut]

I made myself a short list of checks before closing the crankcases which was very helpful to me as this is the first XS650 engine I have worked on. I didn't even have the advantage of stripping the engine myself as I bought it already stripped in a box of bits. I thought perhaps this might be useful to anyone else rebuilding their engine for the first time.

PARTS REQUIRED
Clutch pushrod oil seal 8x25x6mm, Crankshaft oil seal 26x40x9m, Output shaft oil seal 40x62x9mm
The following M8 fixings 2x 75mm bolts, 1x 90mm bolt and 1x 55mm bolt, 12x plain washers, 6x copper washers, 6x Acorn nuts and 12x plain nuts (all M8 )

LAST CHECKS BEFORE CLOSING THE CRANKCASE

1. Check that the crankshaft bearings are seated correctly by trying to spin the bearing cases
2.Check imput and crankshaft half moon retaining rings are fitted and the 2x case locating dowels.
3. Check cam chain seated on crankshaft sprocket and tails hanging equal length when crank is at TDC
4. Check primary and output shafts seated correctly and turning
5. Check correct gear change operation through all the gears
6. Check cross over shaft and pinions fitted to lower case. (easier when cases are open)
7. Check that the rubber or aluminium bung is fitted to end of gear drum selector shaft
8. Check clutch pushrod bush for play (renew if required)
9. Apply Yambond or similar to the 3x oil seal housings in the upper case half and fit the 3x oil seals
10. Liberally lubricate the cross over shaft ,pinions , bearings, gear clusters, gear selector drum etc , carefully avoiding any mating surfaces of the crankcases
11. Apply liquid gasket to the mating face of the lower crankcase and the 3x oil seal housings .Small makeup brush is ideal !
12. Lower the lower crankcase onto upper crankcase and persuade to close with rubber hammer.

If the cases do not close to within 2-4mm before tightening then something is not right and you may need to lift the lower case off again and recheck that everything is seated properly, particularly the 4x crankshaft bearings and each of the 3x oil seals .

It then just remains to tighten all the 18 No nuts and bolts to 14 ft-lbs in sequence. Minimum of 4 tightening stages are recommended ( note that 4x of the bolts are underneath on the jug side of the case and 3x of the nuts are to the sides of the case)

 

[xs650dreamer]

awesome write up man.
i thought the nuts and bolts got 30lbs good thing i didnt go with that number haha

 

[peanut]

thanks buddy. Its good to know that it was useful to somebody .

 

[xs650dreamer]

what liquid gasket do you reccomend peanut ? i know stock was threebond 1104 or yamabond 4, but i believe they stop making 1104 and went to 1194, but ive also heard the 1194 hardens so im thinking of going with 1211 ?

 

[peanut]

definitely 3-bond (three bond) its non setting and doesn't contain any silicon and its grey so blends well if any shows at the joints.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-BOND-THREE-BOND-1104-NEO-GASKET-CEMENT-SEALER-1-TUBE-free-P-P-/181428701539?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2a3dfe4963

 

[Kathos]

What is #7 referring to? Any picture?

 

[peanut]

What is #7 referring to? Any picture?

its the shaft that the shifting forks slide on. It is part of the oil lubricating system and has oil holes along its length to lube the shifting forks.
The end of the shaft has to be blocked off and sealed or you'll lose oil pressure from the shaft.

 

[angus67]

make sure there is no tools in there, too!

 

[5twins]

The end of the shaft protrudes through the engine case into the clutch area. You'll probably need the clutch off to inspect it .....

 

[Kathos]

Oh okay. So in 5twins photo, your referring to the aluminum plug in the shaft that the arrow is pointed towards?
I was making sure something didn't go in the other end.

 

[peanut]

I thought it was the other end of the shaft that has the seal . ? If the shaft is made from tube steel then presumably it will have a plug at both ends !

The clutch end shown with a arrow has a cut out for a locking plate and I thought that it was solid ? but then 5twins image does look to show a seal at that end too.
Apologies for rubbish image its all I could find

 

[Kathos]

Okay. My shaft is like the one 5twins posted. I don't remember it being open on the other end so I was making sure it wasn't a rubber seal or something that I had to put into the case before I pushed the rod through
If both sides are blocked off, how does oil feed through the tube?

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

If you study the attached pics, you can see how transmission oil is delivered along the left side of the case, to the area behind the clutch pushrod oil seal, then to the end of the shift fork guide bar and final drive bearing...

 

[5twins]

There was a discussion on the XSCafe site from a guy who discovered the aluminum plug indicated above missing on his motor. I just assumed that plug was what you were referring to.

 

[Kathos]

Great, well this is very confusing for me now. I took the selector shaft back out to see that there is no plug in there... (unless its part of the case).
Its hard for me to tell from the drawings but it seems to me like the side we are concerned about is supposed to be open so oil can flow through the selector shaft, than out of the opposite side with the notch. (there is hole through the side for oil to pass back into the case)
Also, with the plug in there, there wouldnt be any space to push the selector shaft too far in like how Airwolfe did here in the first post
Ill attach some photos and maybe someones lightswitch will flick on.

 

[Kathos]

Here
is the answer....
Peanut is confusing everyone and making us do research to find the answer. (And hes the one who answered the question in the other post lol)
In short, on the selector shaft, the side with the notch needs to have a plug inside the shaft ID.
On my model (I dont know if this applies to the earlier models) the plug is part of the case and not physically attached to the rod. As long as you cannot see the selector shaft from the right side of the engine (opposite the cutout) everything should be A-OK

And Here

 

[GeorgeOC]

Hello Kathos! Might you be able to tell me what manual the one below is? The EV diagram is much better than anything in my Clymer and Yamaha books.

Thanks for any info there!

[/QUOTE]

 

[peanut]

The image is from the Haynes Owners Workshop Manual 1970-1980

Didn't see this post from kathos at the time so apologies if it was left somewhat unclear. I couldn't lay my hands on a suitable diagram or image of the selector fork shaft. So just to clarify something that was left hanging for future searches .

In answer to 'how does the oil get into the tube if not via one end' .........the oil enters the tube the same way that it exits ....through a hole along its length

Referring to the diagram of the selector shaft the oil enters the shaft through the larger oilway in the top of the shaft nearest the selector forks. it then is forced out through all the other smaller oil holes in the shaft under each of the selector forks.
Both ends of the tube should be blocked off otherwise oil intended to lubricate the selector forks on the shaft will be lost ...as will overall oil pressure

 

[650Skull]

GeorgeOC This is from the 76C parts book. If you wish to browse "thexscafe" blog they have one of the best manual, parts maual and assembly instruction manuals for the XS. https://thexscafedotcom.wordpress.com/tag/manual/

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

That plug #17 is press fitted into the engine case, pointed to here by the lower-left red arrow.
That same end of the guide bar remains open to allow oil to enter into the guide bar.