Thread is old, but good advice. Very helpful. One other thing. Don't forget to clean the "screw lever" just a little bit o grit will make it resist under pressure and make the clutch hard to pull. Clean it with paint thinner and soft brush. Give it some fresh grease and you're good to go.
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AirsoftNY
XS650 Addict
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I tried everything that was suggested, it did not seem to help my clutch.
I ended up picking up one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Moose-Racing-Easy-Pull-Clutch-System/dp/B001DDH1LE
It helps a lot! It makes my clutch maybe 60%-75% easier to pull, just a guesstimate.
I ended up picking up one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Moose-Racing-Easy-Pull-Clutch-System/dp/B001DDH1LE
It helps a lot! It makes my clutch maybe 60%-75% easier to pull, just a guesstimate.
MiniDanzig
XS650 Addict
oh damn that thing looks awesome, but not if you have to mount it on the bars. definitely share pics of how you mounted yours up.
MiniDanzig
XS650 Addict
any info on this thing?
CHOOKS
XS650 Enthusiast
just a suggestion, and i am going to do it because that is what i use on my stunt bike... its called a moose e-z-pull lever. It has three positions for the barrel to fit in the lever to make it eazier to pull. just throwing that out there! 
Anyone know how that Moose Racing Easy-Pull Clutch System works?
Does it decrease the amount that the cable pulls? If so, I'd be worried about not having enough movement of the pressure plate when pulling the clutch. If not, it must be magic.
It seems like there must be a lever in there and the cable that goes to the clutch lever is at the end of that lever and the one going to clutch is somewhere in the middle. That would mean you're giving up a little pressure plate movement for an easier pull. The same could be accomplished on the worm gear lever by somehow attaching the clutch cable further out on the lever.
Does it decrease the amount that the cable pulls? If so, I'd be worried about not having enough movement of the pressure plate when pulling the clutch. If not, it must be magic.
It seems like there must be a lever in there and the cable that goes to the clutch lever is at the end of that lever and the one going to clutch is somewhere in the middle. That would mean you're giving up a little pressure plate movement for an easier pull. The same could be accomplished on the worm gear lever by somehow attaching the clutch cable further out on the lever.
CHOOKS
XS650 Enthusiast
I have never used the moose system that was previously listed, this is the one that i am talking about!
http://www.haibikeshop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=64
http://www.haibikeshop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=64
TRYGAR
XS650 Enthusiast
I need Help, Not sure how to post a new thread, maybe I dont have the rights to do so
Main thing is this, My clutch cable was working fine UNTIL i moved the stock handle bars up a little bit to make it a bit more ape hanger like. Now I cant get the clutch cable to disengauge.. Simple fix, without taking the side case off???
Main thing is this, My clutch cable was working fine UNTIL i moved the stock handle bars up a little bit to make it a bit more ape hanger like. Now I cant get the clutch cable to disengauge.. Simple fix, without taking the side case off???
jd750ace
Front Toward Enemy
I agree with XSLeo on cable lubing. I use 30W, and make my funnel with masking tape, but same basic deal. I know everyone loves going to Mikes for all thier stuff, but another board I use a lot has had a rash of broken cables, and they are all pretty much E-bay stuff. I'll preach Motion Pro till one breaks on me, which has never happened. BTW, GREASE on the ends, not spray lube, will extend the life of your cables.
jd750ace
Front Toward Enemy
Check your cable routing, especially where it passes the front gas tank rubber mounts. A smooth, gently curved cable route is often all that needed to cure a balky clutch. This is not as simply as it seems, things get very crowded under the tank and routing through the triple trees has often been botched by a PO. I have been there myself a bunch O times on a bunch O different bikes.
TRYGAR,
Readjust the clutch at the perch and worm gear.
Readjust the clutch at the perch and worm gear.
C'mon guys..............are we men or mice?? Lets do some hand exercises and toughen up to preserve our manly honour
TRYGAR, to start a new thread, start at the garage, at the top of the list you will find a new thread button.
Push it.
Travis, I don't know about the Moose Racing Easy clutch, bt it might work like the old Harley mouse trap that was used. It had a spring that went over center as you pulled the lever to hel[ pull the clutch. It wasn't used long.
On the stock worm, they used one with a long arm and a short arm. The long arm had the hole farther out than the short arm.
Mike's sells a worm with a long arm that has two holes, one close, one farther out.
The longer arms, the hole farther out, pull slightly easier but with less pressure plate movement. The shorter, closer in have more movement but pull slightly harder.
I have one of Mike's and use the inner hole. The pull isn't that much harder but the clutch works much better.
Leo
Push it.
Travis, I don't know about the Moose Racing Easy clutch, bt it might work like the old Harley mouse trap that was used. It had a spring that went over center as you pulled the lever to hel[ pull the clutch. It wasn't used long.
On the stock worm, they used one with a long arm and a short arm. The long arm had the hole farther out than the short arm.
Mike's sells a worm with a long arm that has two holes, one close, one farther out.
The longer arms, the hole farther out, pull slightly easier but with less pressure plate movement. The shorter, closer in have more movement but pull slightly harder.
I have one of Mike's and use the inner hole. The pull isn't that much harder but the clutch works much better.
Leo
tscacadc
XS650 Enthusiast
I know this is an older thread but I want to mention something. On a motorcycle you only need to use the clutch to start and stop. All the shifting in between needn't use the clutch at all. I have raced super bikes for years, I only use the clutch to start the race, and then again when I stop. Do the same thing on my Mx bike, and pretty much any motorcycle I have ever ridden. Do it on the xs too. If you learn to blip the throttle you can shift smoother without the use of the clutch handle. The way motorcycle trannys are set up, you can shift faster and smoother by blipping.
benway0007
regret what you didnt do
im having the same issue.. i rebuilt the clutch, got a new one piece push tube and ball assemble.. wasnt sure what order the tube and ball goes from left to right..
benway, do you have the Clymer's book? On page 78 there is a pic showing the clutch This diagrame is for the one piece push rod.
There are two 5/16's balls in this set up. One is inside part #22. It was held in by three crimps when new, as the years go by the crimps get worn away and can let this ball fall out if you remove the side cover.
This ball pushes on the pushrod, part #20. The push rod pushes a ball, part #19. This ball pushes the Tee shaped push rod part #12. This push rod is what pushes the pressure plate #8 open.
Leo
There are two 5/16's balls in this set up. One is inside part #22. It was held in by three crimps when new, as the years go by the crimps get worn away and can let this ball fall out if you remove the side cover.
This ball pushes on the pushrod, part #20. The push rod pushes a ball, part #19. This ball pushes the Tee shaped push rod part #12. This push rod is what pushes the pressure plate #8 open.
Leo
benway0007
regret what you didnt do
Leo. Thanks. On my long push rod one end is a smaller dia. Does that end go into the worm gear cover side?
