Clutch push rod replacement

[Chris Costello]

Now that the bikes running I'm moving on to replacing my missing clutch push rod. I went to mikes XS and bought both the small rod and the long rod (bought both in case the short rod didn't work out) and an extra bushing in case I needed it. I removed the worn out seal and have no idea what to do now. I looked at other posts, videos, and shop manuals but don't really see what steps I need to take. Is the rod just supposed to push against the bearing? If I install the long rod, how do I get the ball bearing out? If I'm going to replace the bushing, how do I remove it? I also found a small spring like circle on the floor near my motorcycle, did this fly off when I was working on it? I appreciate the help, here are some pictures for reference.

 

[rebel542]

The spring is off of the old seal. Use the long rod and a small magnet to remove the extra ball. I used a drill bit turned by hand with vice grips to remove the bushing. I think Mikes has instructions on that. Remove the chain to properly install the seal.

 

[nj1639]

The seal and the bushing are two things that I haven't had to do, knock on wood, but like Reb sez check the Mikesxs web site in their technical tips section. I've read it before and it appears detailed.

 

[Chris Costello]

I used a magnetized screwdriver to extract the ballbearing, however the magnet isn't powerful enough to pull out the pushrod. Any ideas? I also tried the magnet on the short pushrod from MikesXS but it seems to be made out of a non-magnetic metal, although the long rod is a magnetic metal.

 

[Mailman]

Here is a video that shows how to replace the seal.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/clutch-pushrod-oil-seal-video.14269/

Another good article.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/clutch-push-rod-seal-and-worm-gear-install-w-pics.26414/

And here is yet another good thread.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/stella-1977d-survivor-back-on-the-road.47329/page-30

 

[rebel542]

I used a magnetized screwdriver to extract the ballbearing, however the magnet isn't powerful enough to pull out the pushrod. Any ideas? I also tried the magnet on the short pushrod from MikesXS but it seems to be made out of a non-magnetic metal, although the long rod is a magnetic metal.

Remove the dipstick and blow compressed air in crankcase while sealing it with a rag and pinching the vent hose with pliers. It will push the pushrod right out of there.

 

[Grimmith]

So after removing the short rod and bearing from closest to the outside, the magnet idea is to remove the other half of the short pushrod and then I would put the long rod in simply just like that?

 

[Mailman]

So after removing the short rod and bearing from closest to the outside, the magnet idea is to remove the other half of the short pushrod and then I would put the long rod in simply just like that?

Yes, exactly. Here is a diagram from 5Twins, note: do not remove #18 , the ball bearing nearest the clutch pack.

 

[jetmechmarty]

While we're on the subject, why did Yamaha change from a one piece to a two piece pushrod, and why are we changing it back?

 

[5twins]

Well, one reason may be because of the expansion rates of the old long rod versus the new 2 part set-up. The old long rod is all steel and doesn't expand as much as the alloy engine cases. This results in extra freeplay in the clutch lever when the motor gets hot. Since the clutch barely separates it's plates enough when cold, this can result in clutch drag and the notorious hard-to-find-neutral syndrome when the bike gets hot. On the later 2 piece set-up, the inner rod is mostly alloy with little steel end caps. It's expansion rate more closely matches the engine cases. But even though the concept is good, the results aren't that great. The later 2 rod set-up still gives increased lever freeplay when things get hot.

The later 2 rod set-up also comes with a down side. The short outer rod wiggles and wobbles more than the old long rod. This can and does wear the seal and bushing quicker. And even with new parts, it's harder to seal up.

Also, I recommend shopping eBay for a N.O.S. original long rod. They pop up all the time and can be had for about the same price as the re-pop, often less (I just scored a couple for $10 each). There can be quality issues with the re-pops. Apparently the one I got didn't get hardened. It was wearing badly, to the point of being ready to shed metal bits, lol. I'll never buy another .....

 

[jetmechmarty]

Well, one reason may be because of the expansion rates of the old long rod versus the new 2 part set-up. The old long rod is all steel and doesn't expand as much as the alloy engine cases. This results in extra freeplay in the clutch lever when the motor gets hot. Since the clutch barely separates it's plates enough when cold, this can result in clutch drag and the notorious hard-to-find-neutral syndrome when the bike gets hot. On the later 2 piece set-up, the inner rod is mostly alloy with little steel end caps. It's expansion rate more closely matches the engine cases. But even though the concept is good, the results aren't that great. The later 2 rod set-up still gives increased lever freeplay when things get hot.

The later 2 rod set-up also comes with a down side. The short outer rod wiggles and wobbles more than the old long rod. This can and does wear the seal and bushing quicker. And even with new parts, it's harder to seal up.

Also, I recommend shopping eBay for a N.O.S. original long rod. They pop up all the time and can be had for about the same price as the re-pop, often less (I just scored a couple for $10 each). There can be quality issues with the re-pops. Apparent the one I got didn't get hardened. It was wearing badly, to the point of being ready to shed metal bits, lol. I'll never buy another .....

Thanks for clearing that up.

 

[Grimmith]

Yes 5twins thank you for that awesome info. I may have lost the ball bearing closest to the cover, the one in between the two short rods on that picture Mailman put up. Would you happen to know the diameter of the bearing? Incase i can't find it....




This NOS push rod?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-YAMAHA...831336&hash=item594080783b:g:46MAAOSw6D5d~9YC

 

[5twins]

That's the inner rod for the two rod set-up. If you want the old long rod to replace the two rods, you need to look for part #256-16357-00, like this one .....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Yamaha...861345&hash=item26547641a3:g:55kAAOSwFe1f85fy

The ball is 5/16". I know that sounds odd because this is a metric bike, but that's what the specs say. But if you switch to the long rod, you'll be eliminating that ball anyway.

 

[Grimmith]

That is odd lol, but ok cool! Thank you 5twins. I just hope that if I find or replace the bearing that it will fix the problem. If not, apparently ebay also has the bearing lol

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...w=xs650+5/16th+push+rod+ball+bearing&_sacat=0

 

[5twins]

It's just a 5/16" ball. You can get one at most hardware stores probably for like 50 cents or less.

 

[Grimmith]

It's just a 5/16" ball. You can get one at most hardware stores probably for like 50 cents or less.

LOL oh, I guess I've never searched for or scene ball bearings at my hardware store....then again it isn't the greatest. Example... they sell 7mm nuts at 1.0 pitch...but no bolts for it. They also sell the Tap to make nuts....but not the Die to make bolts I'll run by here soon

 

[5twins]

Even big box stores like Home Depot should have them .....

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...VErbICh2PdAbTEAQYBCABEgI9EfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Grimmith]

So luckily my hardware store had one and it fit with a little nudge lol. But my clutch still doesn't move in....the cover fits and i can move the adjuster nut and bolt accordingly but no movement.. Could it be that the clutch and steel plates stuck together over the winter? I'm using 20-50 oil and I'm not sure if that makes a difference with that sticking issue.

 

[OLD ROOKIE]

please help - is the clutch rod supposed to fit in the top of the worm gear ?

Bought a new clutch rod lever assembly from Mike's. The old one is intact but has cracks in the plastic housing and the screws are loose (are they supposed to be)? With this older one I can stick the thinner head of the push rod
through the hole. Maybe because the hole is bigger from wear and tear ?

The old lever has a hole big enough to stick the skinnier end of the push rod inside .
However the rod won't fit inside the hole on $56 replacement lever hole.
Am I supposed to force the rod tip in the whole or is it just supposed to rest against the top where the ball is ?
Is the lever assembly faulty ? do I need to drill it out ?
Thank you guys I appreciate your advice.
Patrick

 

[BowlingSS]

please help - is the clutch rod supposed to fit in the top of the worm gear ?

Bought a new clutch rod lever assembly from Mike's. The old one is intact but has cracks in the plastic housing and the screws are loose (are they supposed to be)? With this older one I can stick the thinner head of the push rod
through the hole. Maybe because the hole is bigger from wear and tear ?

The old lever has a hole big enough to stick the skinnier end of the push rod inside .
However the rod won't fit inside the hole on $56 replacement lever hole.
Am I supposed to force the rod tip in the whole or is it just supposed to rest against the top where the ball is ?
Is the lever assembly faulty ? do I need to drill it out ?
Thank you guys I appreciate your advice.
Patrick

One end of the clutch rod
should be smaller.