Clutch push rod seal and worm gear install w/ pics.

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Clutch pushrod seal replacement how-to with pictures,


Remove the LH footpeg, shift lever. Before removing the cover, pop the small chrome cap off the clutch adjuster, there is a slot at the bottom, use a flat blade screw driver in the slot to pry the cap off, protect the aluminum sidecover to prevent scratching it. If you have an air wrench or a battery impact driver use a 6 point 12mm socket on the jam nut (13mm on 70-73) and loosen the nut with a quick burst of the air wrench. That nut is usually really snug. Remove the clutch cable from the ramp lever to free the cover, remove the chain from the sprocket. This would be a good time to clean the chain.

Check that the sprocket nut is tight, even with the folded washer the nut is often found loose, this is another common leak causer. A loose sprocket lets oil get past the output shaft seal.
Clean as much of the gooey crap off the case and cover inside as you can stand to do. I like paint thinner in a spritz bottle, paint and tooth brushes. A tub to catch the crap is a very good idea.
At least the area around the seal must be spotless. You don't want dirt in your engine.

Remove the push rod.
Use a screwdriver against the sprocket and pry the old seal out. This will take some effort and it will trash the old seal. Get the screw drive in far enough that it catches the metal washer inside the old seal, it will distort, bend and finally pry out. Remove the remains of the seal from the retention groove in the engine case.

pushrodseal 002.JPG

Bevel the outside of the seal bore with a sharp hard tool, grinding a bevel on the side of an old screw driver would work fine to do this. I don't know where I got this carbide cutter but it works perfectly for this job.

pushrodseal 003.JPG

Use a q-tip or three and get any aluminum chips out of the bore. The rod will be a loose fit in the bushing, it was loose when it was brand new, I don't worry about this, but new bushings are available from mikes if you feel the need.

Clean and polish your rod. :D It will have a groove in it where the old seal and dirt has worn into it. To smooth it, chuck it in a drill, round off any sharp edges with fine sand paper and then buff it, chrome cleaner on a rag will have it shiny smooth.

pushrodseal 004.JPG

The bevel completed and ready for the seal.

pushrodseal 001.JPG

I love syl glide and use it in lots of places, lube the seal, and with a q-tip put some in the bore too.

A 3/8 drive 17mm deep socket makes an excellent seal driver, the flat drive end should face towards the seal. Place the seal on the rod, more syl-glide, the flat side of the seal faces out.
Place the rod with the seal on it into the bushing. The end of the rod with a reduced diameter faces out. Use a hammer and lightly and evenly tap around and around the socket, keep the seal straight and even as it goes in, until it is flush to the case.


pushrodseal 005.JPG

New seal in place.

pushrodseal 006.JPG

Replace the chain.

Note the correct orientation of the ramp lever then remove, clean, and lube the ramp.

worm 001.jpg


Check that the nylon isn't cracked. Loosen the nut on the adjuster screw, this is usually really tight, placing the ramp in a vice helps. See above, it's best loosen the nut BEFORE you remove the side cover or after you have reinstalled it. there is no good way to hold the worm to loosen the nut once it's off the cover. the round stamped metal seal holder is soft and very easily bent.



Check that the ball bearing is still in the ramp gear.

Missing

worm 003.jpg



The bearing is 5/16" or #10 available at any hardware store. If needed you can restamp the stake marks so the bearing stays put, the rod still needs to fit past them. A dab of grease will keep the ball in place also. Some aftermarket worm gear assemblies are "over staked". Check that the rod fits past the stakes and touches the ball!

worm 008.jpg

ball in place and restaked.

Comparison of early and late arms, the longer, early arm makes for an easier pull but it's fussier about adjustment and clutch wear. The late arm could be drilled for the early attach point.

worm 004.jpg

worm 013.jpg

Use lots of grease before reassembling, this is a nasty environment, you are trying to keep dirt from getting into the ramps.

worm 007.jpg

Reinstall, adjust and test ride!
 
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If your bushing is too badly worn, a new seal will leak too. For best chances of success, replace the seal, bushing, and switch to the long 1-piece pushrod. The long rod wiggles side to side less making the seal's job easier. If you haven't done so, you may want to switch to the long rod. It may just cure your leaking new seal.

Nice write-up. All I would add is to lightly grease the exposed portion of the pushrod. It's just plain steel and will rust up if you get caught in the rain before chain fling-off has a chance to coat that freshly cleaned & polished rod. Then you will be pushing rust through the seal every time you pull the clutch lever in - not a good thing.
 
Most of the "oil leak spots" under the LH cover

Under LH cover.jpg

Bob the mailman's excellent seal replacement series.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/replacing-engine-seals-part-one-the-shifter-seal.52589/

http://www.xs650.com/threads/replacing-engine-seals-part-2-clutch-push-rod-seal.52590/

http://www.xs650.com/threads/engine-seal-replacement-part-3-crankshaft-seal-driveshaft-seal.52591/




I have thought to try a piece of fuel line tubing over the rod to keep crap out of the seal, long enough to touch the ramp and soft enough to compress easily when the lever is pulled. Clearance to the chain will be uh snug. A little grease in there and it should be good.
 
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I think the grease alone should suffice. I'm not sure I'd want a rubber tube pushing in on the seal lip every time I pulled the lever, might create more leak problems than it protects against. Packing some extra grease around the seal lip where the rod enters may add some additional "poor man's" sealing action.

yuhDJal.jpg
 
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A very good write up. Like it alot. I'm sure it will help many.
One thing I found that helps on the install is to use a #3 phillips screwdriver. It is close to the size of the push rod just a bit smaller. I then use a 1/4 in fender washer. I slip this washer on the screwdriver, I then slip the seal on the screwdriver. Put the screwdriver in the hole where the pushrod goes. I then use the screwdriver to align the seal with the hole and with a firm push the seal slides in. The washer spreads the push evenly over the seal so it goes in straight and acts as a stop so you can't push to far.
A bit of Yamabond or simular, will act as a lube so the seal slips in easy and help seal the seal to the case.
Leo
 
The long rod wiggles side to side less making the seal's job easier.

They will wiggle the same after the end is in the ramp gear.

I used Leo's screwdriver method and it worked great. Coated the edges with moto-seal.

The outside nut on the ramp gear is notorious. After I got the plastic part off I laid the rest on an electric stove burner for a few minutes and was able to get it loose then.
 
I will add that there was a 3rd rendition of the cable arm, a very short version used on the early models .....

yIZ4nJO.jpg


This one pulls very hard. I tried one for a short while but switched back to the longer arm. I was hoping this might alleviate my neutral finding problems but it didn't help much, certainly not enough to warrant the harder lever pull.
 
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I haven't seen one like that 5twins.

The 70 and I think 71 have only three ramps not four like all the later ones.

It put a long arm on an 82 that my wife will ride. Very easy clutch pull, no problem with range of motion, shift to neutral after stopping no problem.
 
I'm using the one Mike's sells. It has two holes. I like the hole closer to the center, it opens the clutch a bit more and the lever pull is still ok.
The outer hole pulls a bit easier but won't open the clutch as far. You trade one thing for the other.
You can try both holes and use the one that suits you.
Leo
 
Most of the "oil leak spots" under the LH cover

View attachment 33111



I have thought to try a piece of fuel line tubing over the rod to keep crap out of the seal, long enough to touch the ramp and soft enough to compress easily when the lever is pulled. Clearance to the chain will be uh snug. A little grease in there and it should be good.
Hey Gary,
How many of those seals in the picture can be replaced from the outside? I haven't been inside the engine yet, so not sure what I'd be getting in to.
Thanks!
Brandon
 
They all can, although the crank seal is a bit difficult. Luckily, it's the least common leaker. Most common 2 are the clutch pushrod and countershaft sprocket. For the countershaft seal, tighten the sprocket nut first. Many times, it has come loose and that causes the leak, not the seal.
 
Just about to change the clutch rod and countershaft seals. Wanted to ask the community: I've read in places (including Leo's post on this thread) that some yamabond should be used on the outside edges of the seals prior to installation. Any more opinions on this suggestion? When I removed the countershaft seal, some of the rubber from the outer edge of the seal seemed to be adhered to the crankcase sealing surface. I managed to scrape it off with some plastic but it was a huge pain in the arse. My concern with using the yamalube adhesive is that if (when) I need to replace these seals again, will the adhesive cause some of the seal rubber to be left behind on the crankcase when they are removed?
 
If you do the seal replacement right I seriously doubt you will be at these again before the cases are split. I've been using sil-glyde on the clutch push rod seals with no problems with leaks on any that I've done, (8-10???) at least one has 5K miles on it so far. I have never had to replace a counter shaft seal. So far tightening the sprocket nut with careful attention to getting that thin splined washer back in exactly the right place before tightening the nut, has fixed "that leak" every time. I have found a leaky starter gear case gasket a time or two. Then there's that nasty crack from the side cover tang to the shift drum leak. Happens when a chain has jumped sprocket teeth. That one's a bummer!

crackcase-002-jpg.64333


crackcase-001-jpg.64334
 
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Thanks Gary! So what I'm hearing is to use a small amount of hi temp grease on the outside mating edge of the seal. I don't have sil-glyde but I do have other hi temp brake caliper grease, although mine are lithium based, not silicone based. Would that be an issue? This makes more sense to me than the yamabond as I've heard it's a huge challenge to remove from the cases and thus would be a nightmare to remove from the bores that house these seals. The grease would serve the same purpose as the adhesive in filling in any small imperfections on the mating surface, but would make future replacement much easier. Do I have this correct?

In the case of the clutch rod seal being a chronic leaker, from what I can tell is that it would typically leak past the rod sealing surface due to the radial play in the rod wearing down the seal, not the case sealing surface. I've also read that the expected replacement interval is about 10k miles. That being said I fully expect to replace it again in the not so distant future so I'd like to put special care into making it easier for my future self. That's valuable time to crack open some cold ones!
 
Yes any lube should be fine. A nice warm seal wouldn't hurt either. I have sheared the little ridge off the outside of a seal or two while driving it in, but it made no difference, no leaks!
 
That sealer tip comes from here .....

http://www.650motorcycles.com/XSseals.html

Basically, the sealer takes the place of lubing the seal prior to install with oil or grease to ease fitting. It has the added benefit of possibly stopping a leak around the O.D. Removing Yamabond is easy, it melts right away with lacquer thinner. Do use the other tip given - shave the sharp edges off the seal hole. This stops them from cutting into the new seal O.D. as you press it in.
 
Hey thanks 5Twins! Definitely shaved off the edges with a chamfering tool and some 600 grit to further round the edges. Okay, great! If yamabond melts away with lacquer thinner, then it should be easy cleanup with a couple of q-tips on future seal replacements. Thanks guys!!! Very grateful for all the help. :)
 
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