Clutch pushrod seal replacement how-to with pictures,
Remove the LH footpeg, shift lever. Before removing the cover, pop the small chrome cap off the clutch adjuster, there is a slot at the bottom, use a flat blade screw driver in the slot to pry the cap off, protect the aluminum sidecover to prevent scratching it. If you have an air wrench or a battery impact driver use a 6 point 12mm socket on the jam nut (13mm on 70-73) and loosen the nut with a quick burst of the air wrench. That nut is usually really snug. Remove the clutch cable from the ramp lever to free the cover, remove the chain from the sprocket. This would be a good time to clean the chain.
Check that the sprocket nut is tight, even with the folded washer the nut is often found loose, this is another common leak causer. A loose sprocket lets oil get past the output shaft seal.
Clean as much of the gooey crap off the case and cover inside as you can stand to do. I like paint thinner in a spritz bottle, paint and tooth brushes. A tub to catch the crap is a very good idea.
At least the area around the seal must be spotless. You don't want dirt in your engine.
Remove the push rod.
Use a screwdriver against the sprocket and pry the old seal out. This will take some effort and it will trash the old seal. Get the screw drive in far enough that it catches the metal washer inside the old seal, it will distort, bend and finally pry out. Remove the remains of the seal from the retention groove in the engine case.
Bevel the outside of the seal bore with a sharp hard tool, grinding a bevel on the side of an old screw driver would work fine to do this. I don't know where I got this carbide cutter but it works perfectly for this job.
Use a q-tip or three and get any aluminum chips out of the bore. The rod will be a loose fit in the bushing, it was loose when it was brand new, I don't worry about this, but new bushings are available from mikes if you feel the need.
Clean and polish your rod. It will have a groove in it where the old seal and dirt has worn into it. To smooth it, chuck it in a drill, round off any sharp edges with fine sand paper and then buff it, chrome cleaner on a rag will have it shiny smooth.
The bevel completed and ready for the seal.
I love syl glide and use it in lots of places, lube the seal, and with a q-tip put some in the bore too.
A 3/8 drive 17mm deep socket makes an excellent seal driver, the flat drive end should face towards the seal. Place the seal on the rod, more syl-glide, the flat side of the seal faces out.
Place the rod with the seal on it into the bushing. The end of the rod with a reduced diameter faces out. Use a hammer and lightly and evenly tap around and around the socket, keep the seal straight and even as it goes in, until it is flush to the case.
New seal in place.
Replace the chain.
Note the correct orientation of the ramp lever then remove, clean, and lube the ramp.
Check that the nylon isn't cracked. Loosen the nut on the adjuster screw, this is usually really tight,placing the ramp in a vice helps. See above, it's best loosen the nut BEFORE you remove the side cover or after you have reinstalled it. there is no good way to hold the worm to loosen the nut once it's off the cover. the round stamped metal seal holder is soft and very easily bent.
Check that the ball bearing is still in the ramp gear.
Missing
The bearing is 5/16" or #10 available at any hardware store. If needed you can restamp the stake marks so the bearing stays put, the rod still needs to fit past them. A dab of grease will keep the ball in place also. Some aftermarket worm gear assemblies are "over staked". Check that the rod fits past the stakes and touches the ball!
ball in place and restaked.
Comparison of early and late arms, the longer, early arm makes for an easier pull but it's fussier about adjustment and clutch wear. The late arm could be drilled for the early attach point.
Use lots of grease before reassembling, this is a nasty environment, you are trying to keep dirt from getting into the ramps.
Reinstall, adjust and test ride!
Remove the LH footpeg, shift lever. Before removing the cover, pop the small chrome cap off the clutch adjuster, there is a slot at the bottom, use a flat blade screw driver in the slot to pry the cap off, protect the aluminum sidecover to prevent scratching it. If you have an air wrench or a battery impact driver use a 6 point 12mm socket on the jam nut (13mm on 70-73) and loosen the nut with a quick burst of the air wrench. That nut is usually really snug. Remove the clutch cable from the ramp lever to free the cover, remove the chain from the sprocket. This would be a good time to clean the chain.
Check that the sprocket nut is tight, even with the folded washer the nut is often found loose, this is another common leak causer. A loose sprocket lets oil get past the output shaft seal.
Clean as much of the gooey crap off the case and cover inside as you can stand to do. I like paint thinner in a spritz bottle, paint and tooth brushes. A tub to catch the crap is a very good idea.
At least the area around the seal must be spotless. You don't want dirt in your engine.
Remove the push rod.
Use a screwdriver against the sprocket and pry the old seal out. This will take some effort and it will trash the old seal. Get the screw drive in far enough that it catches the metal washer inside the old seal, it will distort, bend and finally pry out. Remove the remains of the seal from the retention groove in the engine case.
Bevel the outside of the seal bore with a sharp hard tool, grinding a bevel on the side of an old screw driver would work fine to do this. I don't know where I got this carbide cutter but it works perfectly for this job.
Use a q-tip or three and get any aluminum chips out of the bore. The rod will be a loose fit in the bushing, it was loose when it was brand new, I don't worry about this, but new bushings are available from mikes if you feel the need.
Clean and polish your rod. It will have a groove in it where the old seal and dirt has worn into it. To smooth it, chuck it in a drill, round off any sharp edges with fine sand paper and then buff it, chrome cleaner on a rag will have it shiny smooth.
The bevel completed and ready for the seal.
I love syl glide and use it in lots of places, lube the seal, and with a q-tip put some in the bore too.
A 3/8 drive 17mm deep socket makes an excellent seal driver, the flat drive end should face towards the seal. Place the seal on the rod, more syl-glide, the flat side of the seal faces out.
Place the rod with the seal on it into the bushing. The end of the rod with a reduced diameter faces out. Use a hammer and lightly and evenly tap around and around the socket, keep the seal straight and even as it goes in, until it is flush to the case.
New seal in place.
Replace the chain.
Note the correct orientation of the ramp lever then remove, clean, and lube the ramp.
Check that the nylon isn't cracked. Loosen the nut on the adjuster screw, this is usually really tight,
Check that the ball bearing is still in the ramp gear.
Missing
The bearing is 5/16" or #10 available at any hardware store. If needed you can restamp the stake marks so the bearing stays put, the rod still needs to fit past them. A dab of grease will keep the ball in place also. Some aftermarket worm gear assemblies are "over staked". Check that the rod fits past the stakes and touches the ball!
ball in place and restaked.
Comparison of early and late arms, the longer, early arm makes for an easier pull but it's fussier about adjustment and clutch wear. The late arm could be drilled for the early attach point.
Use lots of grease before reassembling, this is a nasty environment, you are trying to keep dirt from getting into the ramps.
Reinstall, adjust and test ride!
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