Crabby's Build

Unfortunately I forgot to install the new Push Rod Bushing before I sealed up the crankcase.

I don't really want to remove the new push rod seal that I just installed so I was just going to put in the new 1 piece push rod without changing the bushing, thinking I'll leave it till next time the seal starts to leak again.

However when I look into/through the drive axle I can't see the existing bushing? Does anyone know if the bushing is visible to the naked eye?

When installing the 1 piece rod is it just a matter of 1 ball bearing into the shaft, then slide the rod in and done?

Thanks!

 

I had a productive 2 days. I removed the rocker arm shafts with a puller tool and cleaned out the last of the media. I managed to eradicate it. I know for the next engine the proper way to approach it. From the start tear the whole engine apart then blast the individual parts. I know where all of the oil passages are now and I can pretty much block them all plus cleaning them was easy. All hail brake cleaner. The shafts were really tough to get out and in.

- I cleaned the shafts and arms.
-I measured the specs on them
-installed the rocker arms with the puller tool and it really helped to line up and get started into the bore, as well I used a hammer on it, great tool but a piece of 6mm rod and a nut would do the same thing. The shafts were really tough to get out and in so I'm glad I bought it.

I lapped the valves. I found some paste that worked well, it had a multiple grits.
My palms were so sore by the 4th valve that i could only use my fingers to spin it.

I never figured out if i had a push rod bushing or not? so I'm saving the seal, I put in a one piece rod, it seems to have almost no movement side to side so I'll save the bushing till next time.

I'll also put on my foot controls. I still have to tweek the rear brake and make a shifter.

Tomorrow i'm installing the valves.

Enjoy your evening.

 

Early mornings the last 2 days as I try to complete the top end. I made a few screw ups today that slowed the process.

-I started by cleaning the valve springs. Checking the specs.
-Then using my cheap ebay compressor I installed the valves.
-My cam chain is continuous so I removed the brace on the base of my cam tensioner arm by drilling the mount.
-Installed the tensioner arm, I used Jim's idea of taping the screws to the driver, really helped. Jim's your top end write up was extremely helpful, many great tips. -Also Jim's taping the pistons idea and the blocks of wood (although I made them too short), really helped. My piston ring tool is garbage, I need to invest is something better for next time.

Unfortunately I failed to notice that the Tensioner arm wasn't in the cylinder properly! I was so excited as I removed the wood thinking that I hadn't screwed up for a change. Doh!


It all went downhill from here. I thought I could lift the cylinder slightly but popped the cylinder off! Thanks to Mailman for the popsicle trick, it worked.
Then I thought that I had the tensioner arm in incorrect as It was rubbing inside the cylinder thankfully 5Twins set me straight. I should have quit right here for the day but I attempted to install the cam tensioner, the spec sheet says torque to 15pds for the cam tensioner and I snapped the bolt, it's obviously referring to another component.

Tomorrow I will attempt to drill out the broken bolt, the replacement bolt will take 10days to arrive, just when I think it's almost done....

Thanks Jim I hate to think what today would have been like if I didn't have your info for reference.

 

That's great news. I just assume everything is so specific. I'm looking forward to not being such a rookie.