Cush Springs Replaced

YAM277

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Another post to keep in mind from 2M! Thanks Again.

One thing I've not found in this forum is the 'basket spin test'.

With the primary drive gear removed, you can spin the clutch basket.
The hub and all related washers need to be installed and tightened.
You'll want to check for:
Free spinning, no interference with things behind it.
Clearance to the raised portion of the case just to the left of the crank ball-bearing. Would like at least 1/2 mm here.
Wobbling. It must run true. No runout, no wobble.
Looseness. Don't want it flopping around in there. Should have little to no perceptable side-side, up-down, in-out slack.

If all is OK, then reinstall primary drive gear. Ensure that primary drive gear teeth are at same level/elevation as clutch basket gear teeth...

(2) `71 XS1Bs - 1 'apart' bike, 1 a 'parts' bike

Just call me "2M", reduces wear & tear on keyboards & fingers...
TwoManyXS1Bs is online now Report Post Quick reply to this message
 
How did you remove the old rivets? A lot of sources suggest drilling them out, but your pictures suggest you did something else.
 
I've seen a member use a drill press. I used a heavy duty Milwaukee 1/2" drill and my eye-crometers! Be careful drilling through with too large of a bit, there are 3 steel collars sandwiched between the basket and gear plate. I would think the drill press will steady the work better, but expense of the drill press was ruled out, for me.
 
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