delete this

5twins said:
You're going to need to start studying some wiring diagrams. I know you say you don't understand them but you're going to have to learn. You can't just go around connecting random wires to one another. No wonder you destroy wiring harnesses, lol.

A quick look at a wiring diagram will show that your ignition switch has 3 wires, a red, a brown, and a blue/yellow. They fit into a 3 prong connector block. There should be a matching connector in the headlight bucket with the same color wires running into it. Plug the 2 together and bang, boom you're done. If you or someone else has cut the connector blocks off then you're going to have to start tracing wires back to their source.
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Right on! Haha. I just went to autozone and picked up a toggle switch. Basically tells you power in, power out (acc), and ground. (Has an led)
 
650Skull said:
Ron, Dedicating it to me is a disservice to all those who have been helping you for the last month....................Go back to Post #377 for a link to the Continuity thread..........posted up in it's own thread.
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skull, sir, you have no sense of humor.geez.Is everyone in oz that serious.
 
JRay77 said:
First let me apologize, this is a long thread. I didn't take hours to read it all. I did see skimming, electrical stuff. My opinion (opinions are like assholes) haha! If the bike is to far gone, fuck it. Strip the whole wire harness out but keep it for headlight plug and maybe a good "y" connector. I've had issues a few times with the harness insulation being bad and with these old starters drawing so many amps=fire hazard. I get rid of the starter too. Go with a kickstart only/capacitor setup. Plug it off. Pretty simple plug for $20 or of you have a lathe, kickass. Basically, if you're stock system doesn't test out or isn't working, PMA time. Kits with a reg/rectifier unit included are awesome. I have never used the original ones. I've only had one XS with a decent stock charging system. How I wire, PMA to regulator/rec. 20amp inline fuse out of reg/rec unit to capacitor. Out of capacitor to an ignition switch. Ignition switch to fuse box. Out of fuse box to whatever needed. Watch what amp of fuse for what you're powering. Mostly use 10amp. The manual print, basically followed that amperage. Also here's a video. Hope it helps. If you're running to many components, wire a little sla battery into the capacitor. No need for a big heavy old school battery.
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this is a fantastic post.
 
ron bayless said:
I think its just you. For one let me get this perfectly clear.I did not want all the information given to me,.especially the drawings of circuits that were put up or the instructions about the voltmeter, if thats what its called deleted..What I wanted deleted was me.Not everyone else or the information.Anyone that wanted to teach illustrate clarify great.But i didnt need to be in the conversation any longer.Every iota of a wiring harness has been covered aftrer 17 pages. i have been mildly chided twice with phrases like You really need to learn how to read these schematics, and You need to learn how to use one of these meters.I took those suggestions to heart.I work in a highly technical field.often times when some huge change in the delivery of care is being made due to some pencil pushing administrator we have to endure hours and hours of videos, tests,powerpoints,etc.It does zero good.You have to get out and do it.Then it makes sense.I am ready to do it.I dont need any more teaching because it will not make sense until I try it for myself.But the preliminary groundwork has been well laid by some of the members.I know there are some like 5 twins max pete,gggGary, and some others that helped tremendously.I am starting to understand the circuits,at least which color goes where.I have a few degrees.Not that anyone will be impressed.But one is teaching.Texas a and m uses a bullseye.The center is must know.the next ring is should know.The final is nice to know.

If I have an arrow in my chest, I dont need to know who shot it, what was its velocity and trajectory and what company made it.I just need to get the arrow out of my chest. Thus and in conclusion I am going to do the must know stuff now.I will try to not come back on this subject.Hey, it was kind of boring here till I came around. I started the threads about ugly and beautiful bikes that people seem to be enjoying posting on. So there.
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ron bayless said:
skull, sir, you have no sense of humor.geez.Is everyone in oz that serious.
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ron bayless said:
I think its just you. For one let me get this perfectly clear.I did not want all the information given to me,.especially the drawings of circuits that were put up or the instructions about the voltmeter, if thats what its called deleted..What I wanted deleted was me.Not everyone else or the information.Anyone that wanted to teach illustrate clarify great.But i didnt need to be in the conversation any longer.Every iota of a wiring harness has been covered aftrer 17 pages. i have been mildly chided twice with phrases like You really need to learn how to read these schematics, and You need to learn how to use one of these meters.I took those suggestions to heart.I work in a highly technical field.often times when some huge change in the delivery of care is being made due to some pencil pushing administrator we have to endure hours and hours of videos, tests,powerpoints,etc.It does zero good.You have to get out and do it.Then it makes sense.I am ready to do it.I dont need any more teaching because it will not make sense until I try it for myself.But the preliminary groundwork has been well laid by some of the members.I know there are some like 5 twins max pete,gggGary, and some others that helped tremendously.I am starting to understand the circuits,at least which color goes where.I have a few degrees.Not that anyone will be impressed.But one is teaching.Texas a and m uses a bullseye.The center is must know.the next ring is should know.The final is nice to know.

If I have an arrow in my chest, I dont need to know who shot it, what was its velocity and trajectory and what company made it.I just need to get the arrow out of my chest. Thus and in conclusion I am going to do the must know stuff now.I will try to not come back on this subject.Hey, it was kind of boring here till I came around. I started the threads about ugly and beautiful bikes that people seem to be enjoying posting on. So there.
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Off topic, but Ron are you an Aggie? If so, Gig' Em! :thumbsup:
 
There are some dickheads on here. Like everywhere in life. Find somewhere where there isn't dickheads, pm me and I'll move. Haha! For the most part tho, very informational forum. I work in manufacturing as our might tell by my vocabulary. I've noticed not always but for the most part, the guys with extensive vocabularys on here are the dickheads. It's how they flex nuts, show off. I'm a muticraft skilled technician by trade. I ask questions everyday. I learn everyday. I google everyday. Research. I'm not going to insult a person for doing the same thing. We did although, have a guy who claimed to be a model, ask questions just so he could brag about his wealth and posseions. He pissed me off. Haha! Anyway sorry for the rant and hope you stay around.
 
Me too Ron. You've started several very interesting threads.

Besides, unless I'm mistaken, you're a nurse and I tend to hurt myself in the Disaster Central Workshop fairly often and so I might need to some medical advice!

Cheers,

Pete
 
MaxPete said:
Me too Ron. You've started several very interesting threads.

Besides, unless I'm mistaken, you're a nurse and I tend to hurt myself in the Disaster Central Workshop fairly often and so I might need to some medical advice!

Cheers,

Pete
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I will answer any question in regard to medical questions up to my level of knowledge and understanding.yes.RN for 40 years.Navy Corpsman before that.
 
ron bayless said:
you have to do it in sequence pete.Amputate first.Then use the soldering iron to cauterize.easy peasy
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Hi Ron,
"the Devil is in the details" Best to cauterize with a soldering iron that's only been used with lead-free solder.
And an anti-amputation tip:- Never use a table saw when you are pissed off.
Luckily for Mr. Stupid the blade bit into my thumb end-on so it's still with me although there's some loss of feeling and an interesting scar.
 
Hmmmm....I lost my left index finger tip in a hydraulic cylinder mishap in Oxnard California in 1985. Off - clean as a whistle.
 
fredintoon said:
Hi Ron,
"the Devil is in the details" Best to cauterize with a soldering iron that's only been used with lead-free solder.
And an anti-amputation tip:- Never use a table saw when you are pissed off.
Luckily for Mr. Stupid the blade bit into my thumb end-on so it's still with me although there's some loss of feeling and an interesting scar.
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+1 about 1988 index and 3rd finger left hand in half the long ways, they're complete and working, but a bit shorter now. Note; don't cut narrow strips of foam insulation board with a table saw.
 
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