Ejection seat control....
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Digital Gear Indicator for the XS650
- Thread starter TwoManyXS1Bs
- Start date
.....linked to the Oval Office.
Haha, Max, I wuz gonna say 'drag chute', but I like yours better.
Here it is:
http://www.xs650.com/threads/your-h...ts-pics-or-it-didnt-happen.29925/#post-301752
Here it is:
http://www.xs650.com/threads/your-h...ts-pics-or-it-didnt-happen.29925/#post-301752
Sorry American friends....just couldn't resist.
HattyDamp
XS650 New Member
Hi everyone....i am a new user here. As per my knowledge with changing up the key is to only activate the light when an up signal from the gear lever follows a voltage low from the neutral switch. I think that is right - the switch goes low when it grounds the lamp to complete the circuit to earth. Unfortunately I do not see how to predict the approach from 3rd to 2nd.
pcb assembly prototype
pcb assembly prototype
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Welcome to the forum, HattyDamp.
Me neither.
Been doing some riding around, evaluating the gear indicator.
It's still using the questionable toggle switch. It works great about 97% of the time, occasionally missing the neutral-to-1st, or the neutral-to-2nd events.
The neutral switch has a spring-loaded plunger that contacts a grounding nub on the shiftdrum.
Those two remain in contact for quite a bit of angle, leaving a very thin margin of non-contact before the shifter engages an adjacent gear. This "lingering" in neutral may be the cause for those occasional missed 1st and 2nd events. I'll need to look into seating depth on the neutral switch, to try to narrow that "lingering" a little. Also, need to cook-up a better switch gizmo, than that toggle switch...
Me neither.
Been doing some riding around, evaluating the gear indicator.
It's still using the questionable toggle switch. It works great about 97% of the time, occasionally missing the neutral-to-1st, or the neutral-to-2nd events.
The neutral switch has a spring-loaded plunger that contacts a grounding nub on the shiftdrum.
Those two remain in contact for quite a bit of angle, leaving a very thin margin of non-contact before the shifter engages an adjacent gear. This "lingering" in neutral may be the cause for those occasional missed 1st and 2nd events. I'll need to look into seating depth on the neutral switch, to try to narrow that "lingering" a little. Also, need to cook-up a better switch gizmo, than that toggle switch...
Version 2.0, better switch gismo.
Using some leaf switch parts, made a leaf switch.
Salvaged a sparkplug housing.
The switch will go into the hollowed-out sparkplug.
It's a bit larger than the original toggle switch.
For sealing, cut the fingertip from a nitrile glove, tiny slit in the tip.
Using some leaf switch parts, made a leaf switch.
Salvaged a sparkplug housing.
The switch will go into the hollowed-out sparkplug.
It's a bit larger than the original toggle switch.
For sealing, cut the fingertip from a nitrile glove, tiny slit in the tip.
Yeah, that's too big. Consider that a practice run.
A bit smaller switch, using the body of a BNC connector.
Comparison pic. Better, smaller size.
Made a new shiftshaft actuator fork, with adjusters.
This shows the fork's #2-56 adjuster screws.
Nitrile glove fingertip held in place with o-ring.
A bit smaller switch, using the body of a BNC connector.
Comparison pic. Better, smaller size.
Made a new shiftshaft actuator fork, with adjusters.
This shows the fork's #2-56 adjuster screws.
Nitrile glove fingertip held in place with o-ring.
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Much better. I can now set the trigger points with better precision, that will trigger only within the final 1° of shiftshaft rotation. Ride tests to follow...
Version 2.0, cleanup the display wiring.
The display is working great, so might as well get rid of the extra 6' of cabling.
Use some 8-pin mini-DIN connectors.
Much better. Simpler cabling now.
The display is working great, so might as well get rid of the extra 6' of cabling.
Use some 8-pin mini-DIN connectors.
Much better. Simpler cabling now.
Looks very slick 2M.
Pete
Pete
Slick maybe, but I'm afraid I can't agree with this whole concept. 2M, buy yourself a brand new state of the art motorcycle if you want this stuff. Frankly, I think you're ruining the whole 650 concept, why we like them (they're simple and old school). If you really want to improve your bike, put a disc brake on the it, maybe 35mm forks, tapered steering head bearings ..... the list goes on and on. Digital gear read out? Who needs that? I know you like to tinker ..... but I see this as pretty useless. Do continue your clutch research, that's a problem that really is there and needs solving. This ..... well, no, it's a non-issue. When I get to the point where I can't figure out what gear I'm in on an old 4 or 5 speed motorcycle, I'll buy a bus pass, lol.
Haha, yeah, I get carried away on these tangents. Just goofin' around. Seemed easy at first, but nosedived into this mess.
As far as the clutch is concerned, I've been contemplating a collaborative study, using a second modified clutch, with someone who's intimately familiar with the clutch intricacies, and familiar with the sticking/dragging syndrome. And you, 5Twins, would be my first choice. PM or ' conversation' me if you'd like to pursue this...
As far as the clutch is concerned, I've been contemplating a collaborative study, using a second modified clutch, with someone who's intimately familiar with the clutch intricacies, and familiar with the sticking/dragging syndrome. And you, 5Twins, would be my first choice. PM or ' conversation' me if you'd like to pursue this...
I have to agree with 5twins opinion. One of the best things about these bikes, is their simplicity. Yes, sometimes I don't know what gear I'm in, but it doesn't really matter. I just shift up or down by how the engine feels when I start to release the clutch. Also my rpm vs the speedo kms/hr will tell me if I'm in 4th or 5th gear. I think a gear indicator is something that appeals to rookie bike riders, in their first year of riding, as they don't have the experience to know when the engine "feels" right.
Lets face it, most lads want to remove as much wiring and switches as possible, when they buy these bikes. Clutch switches, sidestand switches, reserve lighting relay wiring, brake failure module wiring, etc. etc.., get taken off the bike. They even remove the Safety Relay sometimes. They all dream of having that "clean" look, with no switches or wiring visible.
2M ..................keep up the good work on the clutch investigation................very worthwhile.
Lets face it, most lads want to remove as much wiring and switches as possible, when they buy these bikes. Clutch switches, sidestand switches, reserve lighting relay wiring, brake failure module wiring, etc. etc.., get taken off the bike. They even remove the Safety Relay sometimes. They all dream of having that "clean" look, with no switches or wiring visible.
2M ..................keep up the good work on the clutch investigation................very worthwhile.
2M - Keep at it!!! It's puzzles like this that keep the mind active. It could be called "Blue Sky Research". The space race never got me to the Moon, but now I have Velcro. Your ideas in solving the switch problem will be used by others. That 1 Degree switching now means your project is basically complete and anyone reading this thread will know that the key issue is not the electronics but reliable switching. I have now just completed one of your voltmeter projects from a while back.
I agree with Paul good work and keep up the R & D.
Haha, ........velcro.
I've entertained numerous preconceived notions over the years, and found that I'd rather experience the notion firsthand before passing judgement.
Come. Join me as I jump off this cliff...
I've entertained numerous preconceived notions over the years, and found that I'd rather experience the notion firsthand before passing judgement.
Come. Join me as I jump off this cliff...
Is it necessary? I don't know. Is it entertaining? Hell yeah!
Beats watching Judge Judy reruns! Hahaha
It's fun to watch your engineering ideas.
Beats watching Judge Judy reruns! Hahaha
It's fun to watch your engineering ideas.
I thought everyone these days has their smart phone mounted to the handlebars, so that they can read the text messages in real time, and maybe program the Motogadget using Blue tooth, as well. Then they also have to watch the GPS so they don't get lost. That would leave very little time to look at a gear indicator.
Okay, what I hope is the final tweak of this thing.
Fixing the neutral switch's seating depth, to narrow its contact range.
(Reference post #106)
The neutral switch's sealing washer isn't included in gasket sets. Measuring my old washer gasket, and accounting for 41 years of being squashed, I get:
ID: 12MM, OD:19mm, Thickness: 1mm
The switch sets quite low, and makes contact for quite a large angle of shiftdrum rotation. Determined that it needs an additional 1mm of washer thickness. So, made a couple of 2mm thick washers from nylon.
This pic shows the old and new washers. If you look closely, you can see the score line on the switch's plunger, revealing the enormous amount of contact sweep.
Switch and new/thicker washer installed.
Fixing the neutral switch's seating depth, to narrow its contact range.
(Reference post #106)
The neutral switch's sealing washer isn't included in gasket sets. Measuring my old washer gasket, and accounting for 41 years of being squashed, I get:
ID: 12MM, OD:19mm, Thickness: 1mm
The switch sets quite low, and makes contact for quite a large angle of shiftdrum rotation. Determined that it needs an additional 1mm of washer thickness. So, made a couple of 2mm thick washers from nylon.
This pic shows the old and new washers. If you look closely, you can see the score line on the switch's plunger, revealing the enormous amount of contact sweep.
Switch and new/thicker washer installed.
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