I wonder if the ride was longer, would it increase the temp?
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Digital Voltmeter, Clock and Temperature module
- Thread starter TwoManyXS1Bs
- Start date
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- Tags
- electrical
Hey, WER! Oh, yeah, I'm sure of that. DogBunny's and others' reports, using his ThermoDipstick, show that oil temps can easily get into the 260°F-280°F zone.
That's beyond this unit's limit of 257°F (125°C).
So, I'm curious what it'll do/display at those temps, and what it'll do/display when the oil temp cools to below that limit...
From what I remember of that thread most found their temps in 230 range.
Mine was/is running at 280, out of the norm.
DogBunny was cautioning I may be running too lean but I haven't holed a piston. . . yet.
IIRC the temps when I was in your area were high 80's and I do tend to push the rpm's some higher than what is considered comfortable by most.
Not higher than 7500 but I have no problems with running it at 6k.
Or maybe I do have problems and don't know it, the more likely scenario.
Mine was/is running at 280, out of the norm.
DogBunny was cautioning I may be running too lean but I haven't holed a piston. . . yet.
IIRC the temps when I was in your area were high 80's and I do tend to push the rpm's some higher than what is considered comfortable by most.
Not higher than 7500 but I have no problems with running it at 6k.
Or maybe I do have problems and don't know it, the more likely scenario.
Oh, so that was you? Yeah, 280 does sound pretty high. There's a lot of racecar oil analysis articles on engines running at 305°F oil temps, but that's racing stuff.
My big concern is the viscosity drop with high temps. If you study this chart, notice that typical 10w30 car oil at typical temp of 212°F has a viscosity about 12 CentiStokes. Using that 12 cSt as a target viscosity, notice that 20w50 achieves that viscosity at 255°F.
Running 20w50 at 280°F shows lower viscosity of 7.5 cSt, which is slightly less than 0w20 at 212°F.
To try to maintain that 12 Cst viscosity at 280°F would require running one of the thicker 60 weights, but at a cooler 270°F...
*Whew*, Hot day today, about 101°F. I think it hit 103-104°F out in Austin.
Inspection crew said they had to examine my work before allowing this "Hot Summertime" run.
Did some riding around home base to get the oil temp up to 200°F, then headed out to the highway for about 30 minutes at 70 mph. The oil temperature got up to 230°F, and pretty much stayed there. Stopped at Porky's hamburger shack for lunch and to get a video of the display.
Here's the display right after stopping:
After lunch, went to the carwash. I wanted to thoroughly wash the engine, to see if it made any difference.
Now, on these early engines, you can shove the carwash sprayer between the cylinders, alongside the vertical oil pipe, and it'll spray thru the cylinders, exiting to the rear, alongside the camchain tensioner. You can also spray into the crevices just behind the spark plugs, and the spray will pass thru, exiting front and rear of the head. Getting dirt/crud/spiderwebs out of these areas will help with engine cooling.
I'm pretty sure that the aftermarket "Big Fin" cylinders don't have airflow through/between the cylinders. But, I don't know anything about the '447' and '533' cooling arrangements. Do the later cylinders and heads allow airflow through/between cylinders and heads?
After the carwash ordeal, rode around town to dry it off, warm it up, and evaluate the other 'mod' (another different clutch pushrod). Then did the same return trip in this heat.
This time, the oil temperature never got above 225°F...
Inspection crew said they had to examine my work before allowing this "Hot Summertime" run.
Did some riding around home base to get the oil temp up to 200°F, then headed out to the highway for about 30 minutes at 70 mph. The oil temperature got up to 230°F, and pretty much stayed there. Stopped at Porky's hamburger shack for lunch and to get a video of the display.
Here's the display right after stopping:
After lunch, went to the carwash. I wanted to thoroughly wash the engine, to see if it made any difference.
Now, on these early engines, you can shove the carwash sprayer between the cylinders, alongside the vertical oil pipe, and it'll spray thru the cylinders, exiting to the rear, alongside the camchain tensioner. You can also spray into the crevices just behind the spark plugs, and the spray will pass thru, exiting front and rear of the head. Getting dirt/crud/spiderwebs out of these areas will help with engine cooling.
I'm pretty sure that the aftermarket "Big Fin" cylinders don't have airflow through/between the cylinders. But, I don't know anything about the '447' and '533' cooling arrangements. Do the later cylinders and heads allow airflow through/between cylinders and heads?
After the carwash ordeal, rode around town to dry it off, warm it up, and evaluate the other 'mod' (another different clutch pushrod). Then did the same return trip in this heat.
This time, the oil temperature never got above 225°F...
