Wolfchen
Ace of dogma
Decided to fabricate my own XS headlight shroud / fly screen.
This process would work for almost any 7" headlight with oem brackets.
Before:
Single mounted speedo pod with lots of wires showing.
Gather tools: paper, yard stick, craft knife;
9" pie tin, marker, scissors, drill
One piece 18" wide .025 aluminum sheet,
1/8" pop rivets, electrical tape.
Tip: use a center-line to keep measurements & cuts equal.
Score the sheet stock along marked lines and snap off the excess.
Test fit.
Only two small 90 degree breaks required on sides.
Top portion needs support for Lexan screen / crescent-shaped piece.
Finished headlight shroud with embossed center line and top support riveted in place.
Yes - screen assembly will require two inner stays to eliminate flutter / vibration at speed.
Cost: about $16 in materials.
Time required: approx. 2 -3 hours including coffee breaks.
I used .75" X 3.5" X 18" wood stock to break the sides (creating "ears").
Side benefit: now there's room for that special number or race sticker up front.
.
.
This process would work for almost any 7" headlight with oem brackets.
Before:
Single mounted speedo pod with lots of wires showing.
Gather tools: paper, yard stick, craft knife;
9" pie tin, marker, scissors, drill
One piece 18" wide .025 aluminum sheet,
1/8" pop rivets, electrical tape.
Tip: use a center-line to keep measurements & cuts equal.
Score the sheet stock along marked lines and snap off the excess.
Test fit.
Only two small 90 degree breaks required on sides.
Top portion needs support for Lexan screen / crescent-shaped piece.
Finished headlight shroud with embossed center line and top support riveted in place.
Yes - screen assembly will require two inner stays to eliminate flutter / vibration at speed.
Cost: about $16 in materials.
Time required: approx. 2 -3 hours including coffee breaks.
I used .75" X 3.5" X 18" wood stock to break the sides (creating "ears").
Side benefit: now there's room for that special number or race sticker up front.
.
.
