Drilling out footpeg studs and tapping for bolts instead

[arcticXS]

I am in the middle of building mild rearset footpeg plates, and now I realize that the stock/ OEM stud+cap nut setup may become a problem for my ankles....

One solution would be to cut off the studs, then drill&tap M10 holes, and use shouldered M10 flat head or domed head bolts instead.

Now I wonder if there is enough material for this, or is the footpeg mount area just 2 fairly thin plates, with the original (12 mm dia/ M10 thread) stud all the way trough, then welded to both the outside and inside?

I guess I could just turn some solid bungs, say 16 mm OD, with M10 internal thread, and weld them in, after removing the original ones and drilling out to 16 mm.

All opinions or suggestions appreciated!

 

[Signal]

Removing the existing studs and replacing them with your own threaded bungs would be my preferred solution.

However it will not be easy to go back to standard mounts. This may or not be a concern to you.

Another idea may be to make your rear set mounting plates out of thicker material so that the nut does not protrude as much and use low profile nuts or turn a few threads off the dome nuts. Maybe even counter bore the plate.
Rose joints on the end of your linkage rods should be able to cope with the offset from parallel (to the shift and brake pivots) caused by the thicker plate.

The thicker plate could be artfully relieved to lighten its look and you may even be able to incorporate the standard foot peg rubber bushes into your design.

Or you could just wear boots with padded ankles

 

[Paulrxs650]

This what I did on my cafe build - it may help

Post 18

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31160&highlight=Bobber+build+thread