Drive Chain

- why silly...you wont need any more, failing that, you could try contacting goran persson, he created it in the first place
 
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AS far aas deciding the chan length. Measure from the center of front sprocket shaft to center of rear axle. This will be the length from the top and bottom of the sprockets. Double this number. Divide by .625 the length of a link. this give you the number of links from front to rear.
Now you need to add the amount of chain around the sprockets. 1/2 half the tooth count of front and rear sprockets.
Now with say 27.75 inches ctc of sprockets x 2 = 55.5 divided by .625 = 88.2 links.
Half the front sprocket of 17 is 8.5. 8.5 + 88.2 = 96.7
half the rear sprocket of 34 is 17. 17 + 96.7 = 113.7
So in this example you need 114 links.
Just swap in the numbers you have and that will be the length of chain.
Just remember the chain needs to be an even number. like 102, 110, no 113 or 127.
Leo
 
Another option for favorable pricing is Parts Unlimited O-ring and X-ring chains. They are made by EK, and typically cost about 20 percent less than EK chains. I have the X-ring 525 chain on my SV650 with Sunstar sprockets with over 26,000 miles on the combination. Good stuff.
 
my cbr1000rr had an RK chain 530 o-ring. 18,000+ miles. changed it between 18-19,000 and didnt even have to change the sprockets and anly oiled 4 times, every time i oiled it, it would goo up my brakes! scary! so for safety i said no oil, ill replace the chain when worn.
i went through 2 chains on my SR500 then went to O-ring and never touched it again! im an o-ring chain believer and wouldnt get anything else! just my two cents.
 
Can you tell from these pics if I have pressed the rivets far enough. Its my first time installing my own chain and I don't want to over tighten them. Any assistance would be great.
Jacky
 

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A small update to address master link retension clips.

Threads with relevant info:

http://www.xs650.com/threads/chain-length-and-master-link.3137/
http://www.xs650.com/threads/tools-needed-for-chain-replacement.12515/
http://www.xs650.com/threads/oh-dang-the-chain.18858/
http://www.xs650.com/threads/will-any-all-of-these-drive-chains-work-any-recomendations.26096/
http://www.xs650.com/threads/chain-master-link-question.33710/
http://www.xs650.com/threads/broken-chain-mystery.47304/

And, Team Junk's thread that precipitated this update.
Take note of Jim's safety wire postings.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/a-cautionary-tale.55322/


I just wanted to share some info from shop experiences of the '70s.
Master link clips have existed in various forms, and some of those forms performed better than others. Partially due to design, partially due to installation issues.

The worst clip style was this simplistic clip. Not only does it have the least "wrap-around" capture surface, but its design has allowed some folks to improperly install, like pulling or bending a leg over a pin post, or spread it open with a screwdriver, over-bending it past its yield strength. Sometimes found with twisted legs, these were the most often clip failures/losses.
MasterLinkClip01.jpg

A better clip design, that has a "wrap-around" capture surface that'll hold about 50% of the pin groove.
MasterLinkClip02.jpg MasterLinkClip03.jpg

The best clip design, found with the better/best drive chains, has almost full "wrap-around" capture coverage of the pin groove. This design also tends to discourage using a screwdriver to spread the clip, promoting proper installation and removal by sliding the clip across the retainer plate.
MasterLinkClip04.jpg
 
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