Dropped side cover, now she won't charge

[freddy3]

Well just for an example... you stated you didn't think getting the stator exact was important. Just make sure it's not upside down was you response I believe.
So I explained why it was critical to get it right.
You response was a bit of snark about timing not being the problem.

So yeah, questions are fine... even a bit of bullshit is fine... twisting answers ain't.

For the record, I did not say I didn't "think getting the stator exact was important". What I said was that I don't think having it slip because of a missing key would result in 0 output from the alternator.

 

[jpdevol]

Do you mean running a jumper wire from the battery + to the screw the green wire's connected to on the stator?

I understand the working constraints. The intermediate goal is producing magnetism the bike doesn't need to be cranked, just key on. So as the initial slap test wasn't successful: tells me the problem is before the stator. The green wire comes from the regulator and should carry 12VDC. The 12VDC comes from the brown wire feeding the regulator. You can bypass the regulator's function by jumpering from that brown wire to the green brush wire temporarily. I'd do it that way - rather than direct from battery - as it retains the fused protection of bike's wiring.

 

[freddy3]

You can bypass the regulator's function by jumpering from that brown wire to the green brush wire temporarily. I'd do it that way - rather than direct from battery as it retains the fused protection of bike's wiring.

Got it. I'll try to do that tomorrow. Thanks!

 

[Adamc]

Was your alternator producing 0 output before resetting the pin in the slot?
Again, the stator's held in place by two large screws, so it cannot slip. I reckon that pin is simply there to be sure you don't install the stator upside-down or similar.

Yes no output.
Turned over ok on starter.
Refitting is a bit of a fiddle, but keep trying and it will go on.
Had very slight witness marks on the spinning part showing light rubbing.
once installed correctly full charge resumed.

 

[5twins]

The slip rings on your rotor look pretty dirty, I'd clean them. I've fixed non-charging issues a couple of times just by doing that.

 

[freddy3]

The slip rings on your rotor look pretty dirty, I'd clean them. I've fixed non-charging issues a couple of times just by doing that.

Sorry for the delay in replying, but our email server's modem died and, for some strange reason, the forum blocked me from posting because I needed to re-verify my email. Comcast just replaced the modem and I was able to login and verify my email which removed the block.

Re the rotor rings: I'd cleaned them with denatured alcohol, so, although they look dirty, they shouldn't be.

Update: Since my last post, because I'm so limited in how much I can do here, I ended up taking the bike to a shop that specializes in vintage bikes and they've been trying to locate the source of the problem since the 20th. As of yesterday, they've been unable to locate the problem either. So we decided it's time to start replacing parts, beginning with the regulator. They're closed weekends, so, hopefully, they'll begin on Monday and I'll know something then.

I'll update here as I receive news from the shop.
Thanks again!

 

[5twins]

When I clean the slip rings, it's more of a polish job. The carbon from the brushes wears off them and turns the rings black. Now, it's been said that a little bit of that carbon transfer can be a good thing, improving the connection, but I know for a fact that too much will start to interfere with it. I polish the rings with a little chrome cleaner on a rag, followed by a wipe-down with electrical cleaner to remove any residue. This pic shows the outer ring polished, the inner not done yet .....

..... and here's both done .....

Very easy and simple to do, and it will eliminate the possibility of dirty slip rings contributing to your issues.

 

[freddy3]

When I clean the slip rings, it's more of a polish job. The carbon from the brushes wears off them and turns the rings black. Now, it's been said that a little bit of that carbon transfer can be a good thing, improving the connection, but I know for a fact that too much will start to interfere with it. I polish the rings with a little chrome cleaner on a rag, followed by a wipe-down with electrical cleaner to remove any residue. This pic shows the outer ring polished, the inner not done yet .....
..... and here's both done .....

View attachment 254170

Very easy and simple to do, and it will eliminate the possibility of dirty slip rings contributing to your issues.

Interesting you mention this. I've actually used chrome brite polishing pads previously, but because the rings've been black for years (and the alternator worked fine) and the problem began IMMEDIATELY after I replaced the clutch cable, it never occurred to me to try polishing again. But I'll definitely mention this to the shop next week. Thanks for the tip!

 

[freddy3]

Final Update: Just got the bike back from the shop and the charging problem's gone. Not definitively solved, just not a problem anymore.

After essentially repeating all of the troubleshooting steps I'd done, the shop was as confounded as I was as to the cause.

So we decided it was time to just start replacing all of the charging system-related components, save for the stator, which I'd replaced before shipping the bike off to the shop. They replaced the regulator, but said there was no change afterward. But, today, I decided it might be a good idea to take a trip out to the shop and see what's what before proceeding to replace the rectifier, etc.....

We started the bike and got two green LEDs lit (i.e., ~13.5~14V) on the voltage gage! Prior to shipping the bike off, at best, I was getting one b-l-i-n-k-i-n-g green LED....until I switched on the low beam headlight....then I got 0 green LEDs (only the yellow and red LEDs, ~10 and 8V, respectively).....and if I let the bike run for 15 minutes with the headlight on, I'd get two F-L-A-S-H-I-N-G RED LEDs (i.e., final warning before battery goes dead!) and the bike would stall. Now, I can switch the headlight low beam on and still get two green LEDs; switching to hi-beam (idling), the second green LED goes out and the one green remains on (~12.5~13-ishV), which is normal for this bike. Giving it a bit o' throttle and I get two greens again.

Anyroads, we concluded that the shop must've either cleaned a contact I missed (???) or I had a duff regulator.
Thanks to all for your help and support!

 

[freddy3]

Turns out there's an addendum to this story (it's always something )...

Tonight, I took the bike out for the first time since getting it back from the shop. The left-hand flasher/turn signal isn't working—the rear flasher stays ON, as does the yellow indicator in the tach, but the front flasher stays OFF. I don't have a replacement bulb, but I checked the bulb and the filament's good and the contacts—both the bulb and in the socket—are clean. I probably should'a swapped left-and-right flasher bulbs, but I was in a rush.

However, whenever a bulb's been bad, the indicator in the tach flashes fast, rather than staying ON, which worried me. The right side works fine.

Of course, I'll try swapping (1156) bulbs tomorrow.....but, just in case, does this sound like a bad flasher bulb or something else? The flashers were working fine before the bike was in the shop..

 

[Wingedwheel]

Sounds like a bad bulb if it’s a standard 1156 and not an LED

 

[freddy3]

Sounds like a bad bulb if it’s a standard 1156 and not an LED

Standard OEM 1156. Were it not for the steady-ON tach indicator, I wouldn't fret. So I thought it best to ask before I lose the rest of the weekend.
I'll try to swap or replace the bulb tomorrow. Many thanks!

 

[gggGary]

Turns out there's an addendum to this story (it's always something )...

Tonight, I took the bike out for the first time since getting it back from the shop. The left-hand flasher/turn signal isn't working—the rear flasher stays ON, as does the yellow indicator in the tach, but the front flasher stays OFF. I don't have a replacement bulb, but I checked the bulb and the filament's good and the contacts—both the bulb and in the socket—are clean. I probably should'a swapped left-and-right flasher bulbs, but I was in a rush.

However, whenever a bulb's been bad, the indicator in the tach flashes fast, rather than staying ON, which worried me. The right side works fine.

Of course, I'll try swapping (1156) bulbs tomorrow.....but, just in case, does this sound like a bad flasher bulb or something else? The flashers were working fine before the bike was in the shop..

Yeah it won't flash with a bulb out. Unless there's a short somewhere fast flash is not an XS thing.
A common signal issue is wires mis-connected in the headlight bucket, the dark green and black often get mixed up.

 

[freddy3]

Update: Non-flashing flasher due to broken wire between headlight bucket and flasher assembly. Fixed.
Thanks again, All!

 

[freddy3]

Just gotta say: I LOVE THESE EARLY YAMAHA 650 TWINS! BEST BIKES EVER!

Having sorted everything out last week, yesterday, the weather was gorgeous (clear & in the lower 70s), so I took her out into the mountains and fell in love all over again. Easily, the best investment I've ever made.
Thanks again to All!