Electronic Ignition for xs650

that bare spot doesnt look from a rubing situation, looks like its melted, or as goldfinger would say sssmelted?
also I just got home gary,gonna be tomarrow for the instuctions,I will also post them here in the thread for everyones viewing pleasure
 
Tytronic installation instructions provided by mfg...
image.jpg
 
im not sure if its the chaos in my life or the choas in the political world right now, but I cant seem to catch up with everything so I can get to my build, Used to be I had days I was bored in life, now I dont even remeber what being bored is like, Im really thankfull you found the directions willis, I was wondering if i was going to find my copy,I also remebered that it was in a honda instaltion video that I heard som guy say that the hot wire to the coils would destroy the tyronics unit, maybe he had alredy had that happen, as a matter of fact they where tyronics units, but had his logo on them, something like honda daves ignitions, it was very obvious they where tytronics units that had been rebadged, (I could be wrong) so dont crusify me if you are out there honda dave lol....but Im sure the tytronics guy was happy to sell them in bulk with another name on them, chinesse buissness men have a completly diferent mentality than we Mericans do...
 
I think you are thinking of Charlie’s ignition. A lot of on the Honda forums use those.
 
I read recently that when the coil fires it produces several (tens of) thousands of volts in the secondary for the spark and a couple of hundred volts in the primary winding i.e. the 12V+ side. So the coil can pollute the 12V+ line. On an Ebay listing I read that the rectifier should be rated higher than 400V because of the voltage induced in the primary winding. I have successfully used 19V TVS Diodes to protect electronics against these spikes.

Edit: I could not get the 19V so used 18V TVS Diodes
 
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I read recently that when the coil fires it produces several (tens of) thousands of volts in the secondary for the spark and a couple of hundred volts in the primary winding i.e. the 12V+ side. So the coil can pollute the 12V+ line. On an Ebay listing I read that the rectifier should be rated higher than 400V because of the voltage induced in the primary winding. I have successfully used 19V TVS Diodes to protect electronics against these spikes.
Perfect Paul!
ZAKLEY what I was hoping to hear.
Pencil and napkin a diagram so's I don't do it wrong?
 
Here is a diagram showing TVS Diode charactistics:
6965Fig01.png

A TVS Diode is similar to a normal diode except it becomes conductive when you exceed a preset low voltage in the negative range where as a normal diode stays non-conductive in the negative range until you exceed the diodes max voltage rating which is often several 100 to a thousand volts.

The TVS Diode conducts in reverse as you approach Vcl. Although there is a TVS Diode rated at 14V it will be conducting significantly from about 12V so no good for auto-electricals. I settled on the 18V version because my regulator stays below 14.6 volts (14.3V with headlight on).

To remove over-voltage spikes from the power supply you just connect the TVS Diode in reverse bias between the 12V+ connection and ground. This is similar to when you reverse bias a normal silicon diode across a relay to short any induced spikes to ground.

The type I used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/RLA-P6KE18...141799?hash=item2567048e67:g:KOwAAOSwqYhZ2-SJ

I hope this helps.
 
The reverse bias bit is all taken care of in the labelling of the TVS Diode. As shown in the two diagrams above the Band printed on the diode connects to the +12V. I also just checked how I wired mine in the Virago low fuel circuit and it is also the Band to the +12V. In the low fuel circuit the Op Amps would last about 2 minutes but with the TVS Diode added to the circuit the Op Amp has lasted almost 1 Year now.

I used the TVS Diode because they are designed for this job.
 
so is this just an added protection besides not using the 12v hot wire to the coils, or is this a "fix" when using the hot wire to the coils?
 
I have one left, I was gonna save it for the new build but its yours if you need it, ill pm ya.
 
If it is stated not to use the +12V wire from the coil then do not use it. The TVS Diode is trimming off voltage greater than approx. 16 - 18 Volts. I believe the coil produces negative voltage spikes and perhaps some ringing. On my Virago to protect against -ve spikes I also put a regular silicon diode (1N4007) in parallel with the TVS Diode.

On my XS650SH I put silicon diodes across the relays, starter solenoid and the alternator field winding. These modifications have been mentioned several times from others on this forum - it is not my idea, just useful information shared by others. I made these modifications because my onboard voltmeter blew after about 20 miles riding. The diodes solved with problem.
 
If it is stated not to use the +12V wire from the coil then do not use it. The TVS Diode is trimming off voltage greater than approx. 16 - 18 Volts. I believe the coil produces negative voltage spikes and perhaps some ringing. On my Virago to protect against -ve spikes I also put a regular silicon diode (1N4007) in parallel with the TVS Diode.

On my XS650SH I put silicon diodes across the relays, starter solenoid and the alternator field winding. These modifications have been mentioned several times from others on this forum - it is not my idea, just useful information shared by others. I made these modifications because my onboard voltmeter blew after about 20 miles riding. The diodes solved with problem.
Thanks for the part number for that diode Paul. I sure want to power the Tytronics unit AFTER the kill switch, instead of directly from the iggy switch. An example; while working on lighting on the XS1, iggy on, it has no kill switch, so points/ coils are hot.... not good for them. Guess I need to work out a kill switch that doesn't stick out like a sore thumb. Tho it's been starting and running bing bang with points, I think it's going to get a tytronics again.
 
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I have passed the last one I had on the shelf to Gary... I need one for the engine build Im suposed to be doing now ao Im ordering 3 more,If any one wants one at cost let me know, this time there is only two avalible, because Im keeping one.
 
holly shit snacks 400 dollars us, might be worth it if it had an adjustable advance curve.... I think the one paul sutton is discussing is not that much and it is completely programable,.in every way... I guess if you want a drop in and ride it could be feasable..Im not knockin it, cuz I never seen one before, just seems spendy .
 
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