Electronics in fake oil tank

No pics, but I can describe...

With the end caps installed on the fake tank, I took my uni-bit & made like a 3/4" hole, maybe a little smaller.. 5/8"? Up to you..

I drilled so 1 edge of the hole would be on the very edge of the cap, so about 5-10% of the hole is on the CAP, but the rest of the hole is drilled into the tank.

I removed the end cap, used my grinder & cut from the end of the tank to the hole...

So, with the end cap removed, it looks like a 2" deep slot with a rounded bottom. With the end cap installed, it looks like a round hole.

I did this because I wanted to be able to remove the wires from the tank without having to cut them... I can take the end cap off & the wires will slide right out the end as a complete unit instead of fishing thru a hole..

Before I started wiring, I installed a rubber grommet on each wire. When everything is in place, I slide the grommet thru the slot into place, everything is held in place with the end cap... I have a total of 3 holes going into mine..
 
some shots while wiring it.
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Here's my a-bomb e tank. Materials from king architectural metals.

On the bench:
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Wired up on the bike:
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I also added a 12v socket for my phone charger:

6165808963_7227b6d14e_z.jpg
 
Love the phone charger. I've thought about the same thing before, as my Thunderbolt's battery life is atrocious. Do you have it plugged in while you ride?
 
Thanks guys. I have to wire in the voltage regulater and rectifier as well as the start switch.

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Love the phone charger. I've thought about the same thing before, as my Thunderbolt's battery life is atrocious. Do you have it plugged in while you ride?

Yup, you can keep the phone in your pocket and ride with it if you need to. Pretty handy, but truthfully I don't use it very often. It's for the road trips.

Gary, I'd suggest putting your reg/rec in a spot where it's exposed to airflow. I installed mine on the side of the battery box and spaced it off the surface 1/4" to promote air flow underneath too.

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You can also do something else with the ignition/kill switch. I wanted mine hidden so I set them up apart from my e tank in a plate I made in between the factory neck gussets. It's not in the pic, but there's also a triple sealed toggle for kill switch under the keyed ignition.

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my regulator and rectifier are two seperate units. Is the starter relay needed or can I run a push button switch from the positive side of the battery?

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Whoa had I just had a brainstorm, while reading this thread, over my morning double espresso!
tank 013.jpg
tank 012.jpg

I hope I can fit, and mount everything thru the 2 3/4" hole x 6" deep????
tank 007.jpg

and hope I can find a battery small enough to fit behind it!
It's an 80 electrical system......any ideas???
tank 006.jpg

You guys give me such good ideas!!!! Thnx:thumbsup:
 
blackbetty,
what size diameter steel hemispheres did you use?
thanks

I used the 8" spheres to help fill the space. It's tight, and theres a lot of room left over inside, which is why I installed the little shelf to bolt all the accessories to.

Mouser, that is the most unconventional application of an espresso maker I've ever seen, and frankly, it looks badass and totally industrial.
 
Whoa had I just had a brainstorm, while reading this thread, over my morning double espresso!
View attachment 12778
View attachment 12779

I hope I can fit, and mount everything thru the 2 3/4" hole x 6" deep????
View attachment 12780

and hope I can find a battery small enough to fit behind it!
It's an 80 electrical system......any ideas???
View attachment 12781

You guys give me such good ideas!!!! Thnx:thumbsup:

AWESOME use of a home appliance. Only question is how are you going to keep the espresso from running your electronics? :yikes:
 
I didn't use an oil tank on mine. Mounted the reg/rec where the starter goes and used a capacitor with pma. only thing visible is the cap which could be hidden but I liked the way it looks shown. On the café I hid the majority of it under the tank, including a small battery, the reg rec was mounted to the front motor mount.
 

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I have a "door" on my can with the m-unit mounted to it. Still lots of room if you wanted to wedge anything else inside.

Lesson learned after a 100km rip - red locktite the top screw and put in longer hinge pins that can be drilled & cotter'd at the ends - vibrations either back out the top screw or....vibrate the pins out of the hinges - neither scenario ends without a WTF moment

IMG_5154.JPG
 
No pics, but I can describe...

With the end caps installed on the fake tank, I took my uni-bit & made like a 3/4" hole, maybe a little smaller.. 5/8"? Up to you..

I drilled so 1 edge of the hole would be on the very edge of the cap, so about 5-10% of the hole is on the CAP, but the rest of the hole is drilled into the tank.

I removed the end cap, used my grinder & cut from the end of the tank to the hole...

So, with the end cap removed, it looks like a 2" deep slot with a rounded bottom. With the end cap installed, it looks like a round hole.

I did this because I wanted to be able to remove the wires from the tank without having to cut them... I can take the end cap off & the wires will slide right out the end as a complete unit instead of fishing thru a hole..

Before I started wiring, I installed a rubber grommet on each wire. When everything is in place, I slide the grommet thru the slot into place, everything is held in place with the end cap... I have a total of 3 holes going into mine..
 
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