Engine Rephase Rebuild Thread

[alfredo]

Hugh, thanks for pitching in the layman example to help myself and others who might be having a time trying to sort out the pros and cons.

 

[alfredo]

Update:

Going to keep moving forward with the rephase and trying and add some other modifications to improve ride ability (i.e.: rubber everywhere.). Should be able to do more on the motor tonight and will post more info soon.

 

[KentMoney]

yah man, focusing on the motor to reduce vibes is essential, but so is taking other systems of the bike into account. can you post pics of your ride before you tore it down so we can take a look? have you tried adding highway pegs? do you have a padded seat?

seeing the bike will help us make suggestions to improve your ride!

 

[alfredo]

yah man, focusing on the motor to reduce vibes is essential, but so is taking other systems of the bike into account. can you post pics of your ride before you tore it down so we can take a look? have you tried adding highway pegs? do you have a padded seat?

seeing the bike will help us make suggestions to improve your ride!

Heres the link to my build thread from awhile ago: Alfredo's build thread

 

[RCGRT]

Said good seals, where does one purchase these from? I am about to make a Mikes order, but loathe the Athena gaskets.

Thanks man! Will definitely weigh the options.

I'd be interested as well on the seals, as I'll be ordering parts from Mikes also. I was planning on ordering the seal kit Mikes offers, but if genuine Yamaha parts in this case are better and worth it, then I'd just prefer to do it right the first time...

 

[Punkskalar]

I'd be interested as well on the seals, as I'll be ordering parts from Mikes also. I was planning on ordering the seal kit Mikes offers, but if genuine Yamaha parts in this case are better and worth it, then I'd just prefer to do it right the first time...

I use Yamaha oil seals, from the dealer. The Athena paper gaskets from MikesXS are pretty good as well. I have tried to stay away from the Part Unlimited oil seals however.

 

[RCGRT]

Good to know, thanks! .... wondering if they're crazy expensive compared to others....

 

[Punkskalar]

Good to know, thanks! .... wondering if they're crazy expensive compared to others....

My local bike shop can get them from the dealer for me, cheaper than I can go to the dealer directly and get them. She usually beats MikesXS prices, or is right at it... Better quality, better ingredients, thats your local bike shop

 

[RCGRT]

Even better to know, I'll have to try a few of the local places in this case. Thanks again!

 

[Tim of DO THE TON]

Anyone have a list of the Yamaha part numbers for a complete oil seal set? Just going through the manual now but if someone has them already...

I'm just about to start putting my engine back together and am happy to buy better seals than the Parts Unlimited ones.

 

[Tim of DO THE TON]

Didn't realize MikesXS listed the OEM part numbers on 'most' of the seals. Here's the complete list near as I can tell, including one little thing in the lower crank case referenced in the Haynes manual.

Clutch pushrod 93102-08094/08118 (SD - 8-25-6) Ars
Countershaft 93105-40018-00
Starter motor 93102-34095 Ars SD34-46-10.5
Shift shaft 93109-14010 Ars SDD 14-24-6
Crankshaft left side 93102-25121/25090 Ars SD 25-40 9-L-1 HS
Kickstarter 93102-25064 Ars SD 25-35-7-2HS
Tach drive 93104-07036 Ars SO 7-13-4 HS
Camshaft x 2 93101-25044-00

Crankcase oil sealing gasket - may be blind plug references in Haynes 256-15395-00-00

 

[Tim of DO THE TON]

Just to put a cap on this - called my Yamaha dealer and got prices. Ordered up a set even though they're almost 2x the cost of the MikesXS kit that I have sitting at home already

Interestingly the starter motor seal is unavailable.

Clutch pushrod 93102-08094/08118 (SD - 8-25-6) Ars $7.55
Countershaft 93105-40018-00 $14.22
Starter motor 93102-34095 Ars SD34-46-10.5 n/a
Shift shaft 93109-14010 Ars SDD 14-24-6 $7.87
Crankshaft left side 93102-25121/25090 Ars SD 25-40 9-L-1 HS $6.68
Kickstarter 93102-25064 Ars SD 25-35-7-2HS $9.63
Tach drive 93104-07036 Ars SO 7-13-4 HS $4.56
Camshaft x 2 93101-25044-00 $9.63

 

[RCGRT]

All good info, thanks man!

 

[avenue]

looking forward to the top end re-assembly on this build.

I'm a bit confused about rephased cam vs. stock cam indexing while getting the cam/chain/top-end back together.

Thanks and keep it up,
avenue.

 

[Punkskalar]

looking forward to the top end re-assembly on this build.

I'm a bit confused about rephased cam vs. stock cam indexing while getting the cam/chain/top-end back together.

Thanks and keep it up,
avenue.

Reinstall the cam just as you would an OEM camshaft. The timing marks stay in the same location. Line the "dot" up with the head cover mating surface. Degreeing in the cam is just the same as OEM as well.

 

[avenue]

Reinstall the cam just as you would an OEM camshaft. The timing marks stay in the same location. Line the "dot" up with the head cover mating surface. Degreeing in the cam is just the same as OEM as well.

hot damn! that was quick!

Thank you!

I'm walking into the shop, right now.

 

[Tim of DO THE TON]

Not to be a nitpicker, but there is some discussion out there about degreeing your cam when rephasing it because in some cases the sprocket has been pressed off and then back on again - I think both Hugh and MrRiggs remove the sprocket when doing their respective rephasing work on cams.

Perhaps both can chime in on whether they currently put the sprocket back on exactly where it was originally (which I'd assume so, and based on Hugh's response of using OEM marks to reinstall the cam I expect he does).

My cam was rephased in the 'older' method of cutting it on the right-side of the sprocket, sleeved and then welded back together so my sprocket never came off the cam.

 

[irristeve]

one thing to remember the left side of the engine stays the same only the right changes I had a ajustble sprocket put on cam,using degree wheel & dial gauge,got it dialed in ok,also put a new mark on rotor for right side,I rephased the points as well,which was a head fuck,by the time I got all that right didnt need to run engine in as I'd turned the engine over that many times LOL!!!

 

[Punkskalar]

Not to be a nitpicker, but there is some discussion out there about degreeing your cam when rephasing it because in some cases the sprocket has been pressed off and then back on again - I think both Hugh and MrRiggs remove the sprocket when doing their respective rephasing work on cams.

Perhaps both can chime in on whether they currently put the sprocket back on exactly where it was originally (which I'd assume so, and based on Hugh's response of using OEM marks to reinstall the cam I expect he does).

My cam was rephased in the 'older' method of cutting it on the right-side of the sprocket, sleeved and then welded back together so my sprocket never came off the cam.

Yep, HHB reinstalls the cam gear in its OEM location. That does not mean you shouldn't degree it in for the best performance, but it will run as sent out.

Why degree the cam? Well, new base gaskets, head gaskets, cylinders, etc... will change the cam/crank height, and you should account for that for optimum performance.

 

[Tim of DO THE TON]

For the record on the whole oil seal bit.

I ordered up and paid $80 or whatever for all the OEM Yamaha oil seals, and straight up no lie, they're identical in every way to the ones in the green Parts Plus pack from MikesXS. Markings, numbers, the works.

So.... your mileage may vary, but I just spent $80 finding out Parts Plus sells Japanese oil seals from the same place Yamaha does.