Expanded charging system guide (In progress)

Is it possible to test the charging system off the bike? Example, no lights gauges etc just essentials (including battery to frame). Or do light grounds have to be connected?

My system is passing every test and still not charging. So I'm trying to determine if it's a grounding or wiring issue.

 

Brand new stator.......as well as everything else. I've been using my VOM so much today the battery in it is dead.

I'll link to my thread so I don't clutter up this one: http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?p=215174

 

gggGary,
You are such a BIG help!! A few questions. I have an '82 Special, reeve it up and the headlight gets brighter so I'm starting out the tests in your guide. I had a battery tender on my battery for days and days and it reads only 10.5 VDC. I know. I know, that's STEP 1 !! Slap test slaps. But I confess I was impatient and I went on to STEP 5 (Ohms test on rotor) and my slip rings measured 1.4 Ohms with the brushes out. My question is is the Ohms test valid for testing rotor defects REGARDLESS of any other problem? I forgot to check the slip ring to a ground to see if I got less than infinity but my question is the same. Based on the "less than 5.0 Ohms" (between slip rings) and "not less than infinity" (from slip ring to ground) test, do those numbers verify that my rotor is bad?

Thank you Gary for all your sharing of your expertise,
Cheers,
Bruce

 

Another excellent how to post gggGary! You put together the best repair manuals I have ever seen. And you manage to keep it simple enough so those who are not natural born gear heads can follow it.

You are right about weak batteries killing charging systems , that is one simple thing that gets overlooked by a lot of riders. At least we have better batteries on the market these days. I got an AGM with my '78 and I will never go back to traditional acid filled .

 

Yeah, Gary I've seen you say that - I will get a new battery as this one was on when I got it. May have a dead cell. But if I were to want to test a rotor would the ohms test tell if it were a good rotor? I got my test leads onto the slip rings by taking off the brush assembly from the stator face. That gave me room to firmly poke the VOM probes onto the slip rings very solidly. I measured the slip ring resistance several times and it showed 1.4 on the digital meter repeatedly. Thank you for your time,
Cheers, Bruce

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The ohms test between rings and resistance/reading of infinity on both rings(1 @ a time) to core will tell you if the rotor is good.

 

Gary,
Thanks for the info. Yes I think the Ohms test was correct. I will do the slip ring to infinity test just to have done the complete test. Like I wrote earlier, I took care to make a firm contact with the VOM probes multiple times to get the 1.4 Ohms readings.
I've read about the PMA system and understand it is pretty foolproof. Is there an upside or downside to the PMA compared to having the traditional battery charging system?
I can imagine that you have discussed this topic 'ad naseum' but since I'm writing to whom I consider an expert in the field I will take advantage of your expertise. I'm not that knowledgeable about a lot when it comes to motobikes but you seem to be able to explain it plainly.
My Heritage Classic is new to me so I'm a real newbie!!
I appreciate your time,
Cheers, Bruce

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Hey guys have problem with charging. Have a 78 stock motor. New Mikes XS reg/rect. Went with the chopper wiring diagram to the T. Used the nylon screws on the brushes.If I do ground brushes blows fuse between battery and ignition. Also not charging the battery.Slap test doesnt work so possible bad rotor?

 

possibly
Check the resistance between the rings on the roto to find out

 

I will try that first...Thanks

 

I was too frustrated with the stock system. Took the advice of another member and went with a PMA and Pamco setup and haven't looked back. Plus it allows you to ditch the battery if you want.

 

The 70 to 79 years do not need nylon screws on the brushes. 70 to 79 years have the right (inner) brush grounded, and the regulator supplies a variable battery + voltage to the left (outer) brush. Do not ground brushes with a jumper wire, that test is for the 80 to 83 years.................blows fuse as you have found out.

Yes,as mentioned, measure ohms between slip rings (remove both brushes). Make sure brushes are at least 3/8" long. Look for ohms to be 5 to 7 ohms. Also make sure there is very high resistance from either slip ring to the rotor metal frame.

 

I can't see that this question got answered anywhere so the crank/rotor spigot is 24mm size with 1mm tpi (threads per inch) and you need a puller with an 'Internal ' thread , (most of the rotor pullers advertised have external threads )

Hope that is helpful to anyone else looking for a generic puller that works on a XS650 rotor

 

lots of folk seem to be having problems with Mikesxs supplied combined regulator/rectifiers . Sounds to me like they either don't include a decent fitting guide or the guide isn't easy to follow ??

Lots of threads around both on here and on the net saying they have charging problems or blown fuses and asking if its necessary to insulate the rotor brushes from the stator body (ie chassis earth )

Its about time we got to the bottom of this

 

The nylon screws are only required if you use an 80 to 83 type rec/regulator with a 70 to 79 type alternator. The 80 to 83 type supplies battery+ on the right (inner brush). However the 70 to 79 right inner brush is grounded. Using nylon screws, removes the ground so that the battery+ will work.

For my UK friends...............please insert "earth" where you see "ground"

 

thanks for that RT it sounds very simple which is why its odd that there are dozens of owners on several threads that have problems ?
One of this forum's members recently had 3x regulators sent to him all of which apparently failed ?