hein weijers
XS650 Special (5E6) 1982
Hello Kev,
I mean where the spokes are closest to the capiler. So can I remove some metal from the outside of the inner piston housing?
Hein
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Hello Kev,
I mean where the spokes are closest to the capiler. So can I remove some metal from the outside of the inner piston housing?
Hein
Cafe-Dave
XS650B
Translation : http://translate.googleusercontent....JrhjqbwwX1XGwMVMP_cdZvoq_klliVw#anchorComment
There appears to be no need for the M8 Threaded locations on the Elagrisserus De Moyeu (Spacer, Hub). Unless the XS650 Hub has something different than a M8 Bolt, and the FZR Disc has a M8 Thru Feature. I'm expecting that the B.C.D. (bolt circle diameter) for the Disc is 80mm and the Hub is 80mm (Assumption, Prints are pixelated)
Mind you, it's not going to hurt much other than adding weight and allowing for another Steel Bolt -> Aluminum Thread feature which is always a shady thing. It's just another bolt to loosen during heat cycles, loose preload due to Deformation under bolt heads, damage with improper nut running. Not saying it is going to happen, but the fewer the parts..the less to go wrong.
That being said, great work. Re-registering the Disc I.D. with the stepped spacer is some great work. It has to be done if changing offsets around. Looks like the disc is a direct swap for the FZR 1000 disc. So the Brake Pad Swept Area on the Disc Annulus (look it up) will be perfect. As long as you balance Wheel Centerline to Brake Disc Mounting Face offset with the spacer (Making an assumption that was done) you'll have a pretty damn awesome setup. Just new enough parts, but still looks like Real Motorcycle stuff. Looks professional, only needs Disc Adapters. Looks on purpose.
Very nice looking setup, I've favorited it. I'll remember that for sure.
Cafe-Dave
XS650B
The last thing would be to modify the High Pressure Hydraulic system (~450psi) to get something to fit. There's probably no passages in that area as the circuits cross over where the caliper halves bolt together and the Piston Bores will have an undercut between them at the Midpoint of the Bores, but never intentionally remove structure to a product that is well engineered and could potentially kill you. Your call. I do hope everything works out well, honest.
Go bigger on the O.D. of the Disc, since you'll not be able to move the caliper further from the Brake Disc Mounting Face. You may be able to use the same calipers, as long as you can get the Pad to run 2 - 2,5 from the O.D. of the Disc. At the very least 0,5 from the O.D. Chamfer (Usually 1,5).
Isn't it fun putting brakes onto Spoked Wheels? At least you have a 19" Wheel to work with, so you can keep pushing the Brake O.D. to get the caliper away from the spokes.
Cafe-Dave
XS650B
I couldn't help myself. I have a week off from work, and I haven't used a CAD seat in probably 5 days.
Since Kev did a great job getting the DIMs out of MasterCAM, I figured I'd input them into SW2010.
Plus I added some swagger. Feature-Feature Min ~0.295" / 6,7. I can adjust that around the Mounting Locations by joggling the Diameters / Depths / Deboss Fillet Radius. But I really just wanted something I could model / Render / Etc so I could play for 40 min before I had to leave.
Anyway.
Since Kev did a great job getting the DIMs out of MasterCAM, I figured I'd input them into SW2010.
Plus I added some swagger. Feature-Feature Min ~0.295" / 6,7. I can adjust that around the Mounting Locations by joggling the Diameters / Depths / Deboss Fillet Radius. But I really just wanted something I could model / Render / Etc so I could play for 40 min before I had to leave.
Anyway.
Attachments
hein weijers
XS650 Special (5E6) 1982
Hello Dave,
Yes it's great fun!
And you are right, there is always a way out of trouble by choosing a bigger disk.The RH break is o.k. now. With the disk 1 mm from the fork leg and the capiler 1 mm away from the spokes, the disk is exactly in the center of the capiler.
The LH side seems to be more critical. Maybe the rim is not exactly symmetrically spoked? Also the speedo gear touches the standard bolts. I will have to use sunk allen bolts to solve that problem.
By the way, I will only mount the RH brake first and see how it performs compared to the original 2-disk system.
Has anyone tried that already? With the same master cilinder and one new disk and capiler I would expect 40% more brake power. Is that correct?
The advantage of decreasing the unsprung brake weight by 75% is also important.
Kind regards, Hein
hein weijers
XS650 Special (5E6) 1982
The brake job is comleted. 
I had to scrape the last micrometers of space together, but it can be done with the 300 mm rotors on a spoked wheel! They are at 0.5 mm distance from the fork legs and 0.5 mm from the spokes.
On the LH side I had to make the edge of the capiler a little round. In that way I removed about 1 mm of a total of 6 mm wall.
If a rubber ring can handle the brake pressure, then aluminum of 5mm thickness also can. Here is the result.
Hein
I had to scrape the last micrometers of space together, but it can be done with the 300 mm rotors on a spoked wheel! They are at 0.5 mm distance from the fork legs and 0.5 mm from the spokes.
On the LH side I had to make the edge of the capiler a little round. In that way I removed about 1 mm of a total of 6 mm wall.
If a rubber ring can handle the brake pressure, then aluminum of 5mm thickness also can. Here is the result.
Hein
hein weijers
XS650 Special (5E6) 1982
Stainless brake lines look nice and make the brakes feel more solid. The only thing is that you have to squeeze just as hard for the same braking power! Every other story is a fairy-tale 
Hein
Hein
Last edited:
Hope I helped (if only a little) to at least inspire a few others to upgrade their front brakes. 
Stainless brake lines or not..... Blue spot calipers or Brembo....... its all personal choice.
Anything is possible if you keep at it
Kev
Stainless brake lines or not..... Blue spot calipers or Brembo....... its all personal choice.
Anything is possible if you keep at it
Kev
I am subscribed to this thread and have an early FZR600 front end waiting.... Great info here that hopefully I will get to use.
Thnx for all the info. Now I have FZR brakes on my XS750. (It's the same as a XS650).
It just fits and I have very little space left between the rims and the calliper. But it works.
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I used 8 mm steel and cutted the shape whith a jigsaw. The spacers are made by a friend. Thanks dimka pdx for the technical drawing for the spacers. Saved me a lot of work.
It just fits and I have very little space left between the rims and the calliper. But it works.
I used 8 mm steel and cutted the shape whith a jigsaw. The spacers are made by a friend. Thanks dimka pdx for the technical drawing for the spacers. Saved me a lot of work.
carreragt7
XS650 Member
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Does anyone on here still have the adapters available for sale? I'm looking for one that would fit my XS400R Seca, which from what I've been able to gather is the same setup as the XS650 (80mm 6 hole).
I've got a Nissin caliper from a CBR600RR that I'd like to use with a Ducati 320mm rotor.
I've got a Nissin caliper from a CBR600RR that I'd like to use with a Ducati 320mm rotor.
dimka pdx
XS650 Enthusiast
I have a billet aluminum adapter...actually more of a spacer. I haven't looked it in a while, but I think it is 12mm thick. Picture below. Let me know if you are interested.
I just wanted to say thanks for posting up the drawings for the adapter.
I modified the basic plans for the adapter for use on my '82 XV920R.
I'm running FJ600 wheels, with EBC rotors, a pair of FZ1 calipers and MC. What a difference in performance.
I modified the basic plans for the adapter for use on my '82 XV920R.
I'm running FJ600 wheels, with EBC rotors, a pair of FZ1 calipers and MC. What a difference in performance.
Bjorn
XS650 Addict
Because this topic inspired me to change the stock brake set-up for some gold brembos.
Its not finished yet, but im getting there. Tolerances are tight but I think its going to work. Maybe this can help other to change their set-ups.
A secondhand disk and caliper
Disk spacer in the making (hub-side)
The closer i can get to the forks, the more space I will have between the spokes and caliper.
Aluminium mounting plate for the caliper is in the making...
Its not finished yet, but im getting there. Tolerances are tight but I think its going to work. Maybe this can help other to change their set-ups.
A secondhand disk and caliper
Disk spacer in the making (hub-side)
The closer i can get to the forks, the more space I will have between the spokes and caliper.
Aluminium mounting plate for the caliper is in the making...
hein weijers
XS650 Special (5E6) 1982
Looks very nice Bjorn
Could you keep us informed? What type of Brembo caliper and the sizes of the adapter would help other XS owners a lot.
Hein
Could you keep us informed? What type of Brembo caliper and the sizes of the adapter would help other XS owners a lot.
Hein
Bjorn
XS650 Addict
When everything fits and works correctly, I will share the drawings etc.
Because this topic inspired me to change the stock brake set-up for some gold brembos.
Its not finished yet, but im getting there. Tolerances are tight but I think its going to work. Maybe this can help other to change their set-ups.
A secondhand disk and caliper
Disk spacer in the making (hub-side)
The closer i can get to the forks, the more space I will have between the spokes and caliper.
Aluminium mounting plate for the caliper is in the making...
Looking real good.................you'll soon have strong braking! Yes, be sure to post some more pics when you have it all mounted up.
Bjorn
XS650 Addict
After some test-rides I think its safe to say I got everything working properly. At this moment I still need to do small things like finding a brake-line with a 90dgr elbow and some decent fasteners.
The first test rides went pretty good. Conditions were not ideal (winter is starting here in the Netherlands) but I feel confident riding for some 40 miles. Careful measurements I took really paid of, everything aligns OK. Below I will post the drawings and dimensions of the parts needed. Please note that tolerances with this set-up are very small!
I was very lucky a buddy was willing to help me cut a aluminum mounting plate for the braking caliper. I do believe that with some creativity you can make a nice mounting plate w/o the use of laser cutting machinery. The dimensions of the four mounting holes are the ones you need. I used a strong aluminum alloy with a thickness of 15mm. I found this too thick and milled it down to 11mm. The thickness of the mounting plate is not relevant for the alignment.
Dimensions are in mm!
next up: modifying the brake caliper.
I wanted as much clearance as I could create between the caliper and the spokes. To achieve this I did not align the brake disk in the middle of the caliper. I believe this is not necessary. I have not checked but believe the disk is somewhere around 1-2mm out to the LH side (sitting on the bike). To move the caliper to the right, i milled 2,85mm of the mounting holes. If you plan on using this setup I do recommend you check this measurement on your bike!.
the end result:
drawing of the hub to disk spacer will follow....
The first test rides went pretty good. Conditions were not ideal (winter is starting here in the Netherlands) but I feel confident riding for some 40 miles. Careful measurements I took really paid of, everything aligns OK. Below I will post the drawings and dimensions of the parts needed. Please note that tolerances with this set-up are very small!
I was very lucky a buddy was willing to help me cut a aluminum mounting plate for the braking caliper. I do believe that with some creativity you can make a nice mounting plate w/o the use of laser cutting machinery. The dimensions of the four mounting holes are the ones you need. I used a strong aluminum alloy with a thickness of 15mm. I found this too thick and milled it down to 11mm. The thickness of the mounting plate is not relevant for the alignment.
Dimensions are in mm!
next up: modifying the brake caliper.
I wanted as much clearance as I could create between the caliper and the spokes. To achieve this I did not align the brake disk in the middle of the caliper. I believe this is not necessary. I have not checked but believe the disk is somewhere around 1-2mm out to the LH side (sitting on the bike). To move the caliper to the right, i milled 2,85mm of the mounting holes. If you plan on using this setup I do recommend you check this measurement on your bike!.
the end result:
drawing of the hub to disk spacer will follow....
You do some very nice work..................I like it!
