First kick start now no spark

AtoXS

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I posted this question on the facebook group, but didn't get a response so I figured I'd pose it here as well. This past winter I striped my bike down to swap out the motor, powder the frame and overall tighten up the build a bit. I just finished getting the bike back together and all the electrical run. On my first attempt to start it, it fired right up first kick. A few days later I went back to do the cam chain adjustment, valves and set the timing so I could actually ride it. When I attempted to start it to do the timing I got nothing. I did a spark test and got nothing. I tested the coil as well as the cap and they tested fine. I haven't tested my Pamco or my HHB PMA, but I'm guessing that's where the problem lies. My worry is that when I started it, something wasn't hooked up quite right and sent a big surge through my system, frying the Pamco. All the wiring is all tied in and shrink wrapped so there is no easy way to test the Pamco. Anyone have any suggestions or theories on what's going on?
 

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Did you have the ignition on with the engine off for any length of time? That can fry the electronic ignitions.

Edit* with a cap it's less likely. Maybe check and see if the voltage is going up when you kick, if not you could try a small battery to see if it'll run.
 
The various "Pamco" are prone to failure when hit with voltage spikes from Capacitor only charging systems. Tytronics is one option there are several others. Those pesky bullet connectors such a pain til you need to remove or test something............
Using a battery for kick starting is a huge advantage. My Norton is a one kick with a battery in the system, at least three when Cap only.
 
I am not a Pamco or other aftermarket ignition guro by any means, but you indicate powder coating the frame. By any chance is the ground connection point (wherever you put it) obscured by residual powder coating? Perhaps re-visit those connection points and ensure that the grounds are good, clean, solid, and tight. Not being familiar with those systems I would just note that on the stock bikes I have seen, there is a ground point beneath one of the ignition coil mounting brackets. If this was not cleaned off and there is still paint there, it could be a problem (?).

When I have had frames powder coated my guy (who is very good IMHO and local to me) always goes over every spot on the frame, asking me where he needs to keep the paint/powder out of, then marks or masks those points before he does the job. He also runs a tap through any drilled/tapped holes to make sure they are cleaned out (I have rarely had to re-do any). Then again, he is an enthusiast himself, so is aware of these things.
 
So I was just talking with someone at work and he mentioned something I didn't even think about. After I got the bike started the one time mentioned earlier I switched the plug wires out for some clear ones a friend had from Lowbrow Customs like this https://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/prod...raight-spark-plug-wire-sets-clear-translucent. Previously I had the yellow xs performance wire that came with the Pamco when it started. After I couldn't get a spark I did switch one clear wire back to the yellow, but didn't get a spark then and since I had around 25k oms testing at the plug ends I didn't think much about it, but I'm not much for electronics or a multi meter. Could this be a resistance issue? The plug wire I linked says it's not suppression core.
 
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