'fn new guy

I checked the diaphrams by pushing the slide up, then licking my thumb,(eww, carb cleaner!) sealed the oval inlet in the bell, and released the slide. they both fell very slowly. thats what I want, rite?

- right :thumbsup:

then checked the slides again, same method, They fell like I didnt plug the oval hole. I took the tops off to make sure I had the 'notch' in the rite place, and I didnt twist the rubber, put it back together, and still slides fell quickly.

- not right :thumbsdown:...check that the membrane is installed properly, sealing and that the tag is in the right place...hold over a light and look for holes...cleaning agents and rubber parts are not the best of friends

I ordered new clutch plates...the old ones are thicker by .04 . I measuered in three separate places, and thats the average...Whats the deal with the thinner clutches? will it be fine? I also got the upgraded clutch springs from mikes. John says start off using three old, and three new. I will.

- friction plates should be 3.0mm...wear limit 2.7mm...soak in oil before installing

Drive plates. My drive plates are really discolored. Im sure that they get plenty hot down there, bathing in that oil, but, 3 outta 5 is dark brown, and in some places, show purple. ARe they OK? Also, when I put them on a piece of glass, 4 of the five are flat. cant 'rock them at all, but the 5th has a very slight wiggle. what do you guys make of this?

- plates should be 1.4mm...wiggly ones are good to make clutch tools from

And I got a Hi-perf ciol(not the green one, the one that kinda looks stock). I was unsure about the what caps to get , so I went with the 5k resistor, and the black silycone wires. ARe these the rite caps? Do I just screw the wires onto the threaded posts(kinda look like the pionted end of a wood screw), while trying to keep contact with the actual wire in the wire with the coil contacts?

- yep
 
Angus, first , you can use a very thin coat of dielectric grease around the diaphram edges. You've probably got a bad seal on them. No, you cant get the carbs too clean, but any gouges will be a problem.
Second, the fiber discs should be put in a oil bath to swell them, this is probably why there a bit thinner than your old ones.The steel plates look a little discolered, hard to see on that paisley blanket. You could soda blast them to remove some of the discoloring. I would probably replace the warped one, depending on how much it is bent. Not bent too much, I would try it, on the end of the clutch assy. for ease of removal IF the clutch chatter's.
Third, yes,those are the correct plug caps, and thats how they are attached. I used a small pick to start the holes in the end's of the wires. That coil is the same one I have, & have had no problems with it at all. It will mount in the stock location with a little work, & the towers facing forward.:D:bike:
 
thanks guys.
inxs. I didnt spray cleaner on the slide rubber assembly. That whole peice stayed together during the process(needle, slide,,diaphram)
Gordon, I will try di-electric grease there. It sealed before ,so, Sure it doesnt have any holes in it.
Gordon, I had known to soak the clutches in oil overnite, and that they would swell alittle, I just didnt put the two together.
And that last drive plate's wiggle is ever so little, I will try it on the end of the clutch pack. See how she goes. Also, on my clutch basket, between the 'fingers', there is the ridges there, very slight again, if I'm EXTREMELY carefull, and VERY gentle, can I file them flat?
AND I thought soda blastimg would only remove material other than the metal? I didnt know it would remove stains. heat discoloration is prolly deeper than a blaster can get too.
Good deal on the coil there, gordon. Makes sense, just checking. But I removed the bar that the coil mounts to, and replaced it with studier tubing. I was gonna leave it off, but, someone said it addds to the rigidity of the frame, so I put it back on. I was thinking mount it on the backbone to sit between the carbs, but someone pionted out that engine heat could hurt it there. Ive seen others with it there,please advise.
 
- while the membrane is out i would still check it against a light
- i wouldnt use the clutch plate personally, there is already very little operating tolerance in the clutch
- [QUOTE...wally]I suppose Ill need to polish the cases as the soda as stated did not get the stains out but still the safest method I think to clean down a complete engine[/QUOTE]
- good idea to keep the coil as cool as possible
 
Yea, you can 'clean them up, the fingers on the clutch basket. The trick is to keep them 90 degrees to the basket. If you don't clean them up, you could get a clutch that won't release properly. The disc's get hung up on the grooves on the fingers. Just go slowly, as I know yopu are, & they will be ok. Also, try to keep the space between the fingers the same. I would make up some kind of guage, like a block of metal of somekind,to use as a guide when filing.File up between one opening, both side's, measure up that distance , & make the guage to that.Then use it as a guide to the rest of the fingers.
 
- while the membrane is out i would still check it against a light

- [QUOTE...wally]I suppose Ill need to polish the cases as the soda as stated did not get the stains out but still the safest method I think to clean down a complete engine
- good idea to keep the coil as cool as possible[/QUOTE
---will do
 
good ideas
for this 'Guage', do you mean use a chunk of steel(square block) and attach it to the inside of the fingers so that when I file, I am going 90 to the fingers, perpindicular to the case?
 
- dont over file the fingers as the more you take off the the more play you get when putting her in gear, the louder the clunk is, and the more wear you get on the inner hub
- the block is a measuring device to ensure the same ammount gets filed off from all spaces
 
You can also bevel the edge of the clutch friction plate fingers with a file (just enough to take the edges off) to ease clutch drag on the worn fingers
 
ok. I'll give a light file. I mic'd my old clutch springs, and in the haynes, says free length is 34.6. the one I have mic at about 41.5mm. the old ones I have are blue. did yamaha upgrade about 1980? thought I read that somewhere. my new ones from mikes are at 43.3mm. I plan to follow xsjohns suggestions, and use 3 old, and 3new so the clutch might be liter. I guesse when is all done, I'll decide if the clutch needs more pressure, heavy clutch, or lighter clutch, less pressure. i'll see later.
 
ok. clutch is going back together.



I put the new fritions in fresh oil to bathe over nite, the followed this link directions and suggestions, thanx inxs
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143
alitttle confusion though. Is the basket and boss supposed to be flush with each other,where the conical washer and nut goes, or should the basket be slightly inset of the boss?Hmmm....
got the washers and mikes upgraded bearing in and made a holding tool with a old drive plate. Torqued it to 55ft/lbs. I know the trans is in neutral. Should it be a little tough to turn the boss? before I torqued it, the output shaft was easy to turn. could this be from combined friction of the clutch washers? not the basket, it is geared to the crank. here is what I mean about the basket being inset. look were the nut goes. basket and boss is not flush. is it sposed to be that way?
clutchbasketinset-vi.jpg
 
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That's a beaut, aint it? when I first started thinking for a 'look' for this bike, I thought it would be cool to use it as a jockey shifter. I'll stay stock config. though. first biuld you know.
 
im back!! I bought a small battery that is used for auto gate openers, 12 volt-7 Ah. hooked it up, had some trouble first few kicks, but realized my petcock wasnt opening, unless halfway on/offf, and a few sqirts of starting fluid, and she started rite up!! Yes!!
I ran it for bout a half hour with a boxfan pionted at it, and it seems to be charging too.
Man, these bikes shake. above 2krpms, the various nuts and bolts around the bike started backing off. None of it is thread locked or lockwashered, I wanted to get the motor started, and idling before dismantle,and then I will secure all fasteners correctly.
I got it to idle nice and smooth about 1k rpms. with great throttle response.
What worries me though, is a hanging idle. I'm thinking vaccuum leak at the carb mounts. Also in the last few minutes of running, it would idle up on its own, Ide shut it off, then restart, idling fine for a moment, then start racing again. I let it sit for a few minutes without running, restarted it, and will start, but as soon as I touch the throttle it dies. Clogged pilot? Ive got a good filter on it, plus a new petcock, although malfunctioning, new brass filter in tank. any ideas?
aflter cooling off for 6 hour, I pulled the inspection covers,and rechecked the valves. spot on. lots of oil in there. pulled the plugs, black, very sooty. I'm thinking rich. but thought the hanging idle was indicative of a lean condition? tommorow I will pull the tank, and retorque the head to 30#, fire it up, and see what happens. I will post a video tomorow. sound good. I have open pipes, so its too loud. need a bit of baffle to take the edge off. Thought it would sound cheap, high pitched you know?
 
i was thinking starting with the 4 inchers, and if that dont cut it, i'll try the longer ones. I like loud pipes, but DAY-UM!!
 
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