'fn new guy

any ideas on the hanging throttle? I strobed the timing, when its idle normally, shows halfway to full advance. when it races, it shows bout an inch and a half past full advance. I screwed with the mix screws a little, thinking the left carb was funny, and it would kick/ spit back when trying to kick it over, valves are spot on, just re-torqued the head. was still at 30 ft/#'s
I have a new cam chain, and checked the tensioner, flush to outside, and maybe 1/16 of movement, maybe less? is oil supposed to collect in the cover there?
 
man I wish I had the answer for you, but I have no idea what that would be. Clearly something isn't right... I'm sure someone here at least has an idea though..
 
thanks any way. I mentioned it to a guy at work, and he asked if my choke was working right. I answered'no, when I pull it out, it dies, and starts easy cold without it' he said could be way rich, but i have xsjohns needles, and he suggested 1and 1/2 out on the left mix, and 1 and 1/4 on the right mix. hmmm......
 
how recently/well cleaned are your carbs? they're 34's, right? It's very nearly impossible for them to leak fuel/air when closed, even if they are worn.

You can sort of test this by blowing into the air pressure reference hole (the big one at the top of the throat on the intake side). with choke off, you should feel the slide rise, then thunk against the top, then you should not be able to blow any more. If you open the choke, you should be able to blow through.

Have you balanced your carbs?

Also, define "cold". A properly working carb should start the bike with no choke at 25c+, and very little time at 1/2 pull between 5c-25c. Full choke should only be needed below 5c.
 
I'm curious to see what your problem is. I was suffering from this problem last fall except the idle wouldn't hang up. My bike would start and idle fine but the second I grabbed throttle it would die. I thought it could be the height of my floats. Or maybe a restrictive fuel filter. It just seemed like the bowls weren't filling with fuel quickly enough or even filling with enough fuel at all.
 
sundie, I had these carbs as far apart without taking the shafts out. I have the brass floats set, new float valves, johns needles on 3rd notch. If I blew carb cleaner in one hole, I made sure it came out somewhere else. I have new pilot passage plugs too. Thinking I might try takeing out the custon spacer that john suggested(between stock spacer, and e-clip on needle). I know my diaphrams are good, cuz I can see them rise and fall when I rev it. They 'flutter', though. My other bike's slides dont do that.
I have not balanced my carbs, I bench balanced with a peice of paper.
Breahn, Dont forget there is a air bubble (probably) in your fuen line that the gas has to go around. Your carbs will take fuel when they need it.
 
figured out the hanging idle. rich. leaned the idle mix, and all is good. havnt been here for a while, but ivehad no monies, so..... plus....trying... to get a friend to turn some needles for me...basically duplicate johns needles. hope i'm not stepping on xsjohns toes doing this, but, if I can make a few pairs to donate, or sell just to makethe cost of latheing, do you think it would be OK? I'm not looking to make big bucks off of someone elses ideas, but, if people want these needles, whynot? just manu. cost.
Anyways, got tired of not having a battery tray, so I whipped one up. grabbed 1 inch angle, and whent to work. went to a horse tack store, and grabbed a pair of stirrup straps, and welded a half link to the bottom to keep the straps from sliding off the battery. looks good in my opinion.
Now that I have support back there, I can cut out the butt-uglyness under the down tube, and do it right.
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I don't think it would be a problem. Just give credit where credit is due and it should be all good. Hopefully you will try to be as helpful as John was with his and kind of carry on in his name.
 
Ide definately call them xsjohn's needles. but as far as helping with diagnostics, ide be of little help other than straight pipes, small baffles, and cheap-ass filters.
John knew how much/little custom spacing was needed for every other scenario. All I have is his personall instructions for my set up. Althogh his needles are all the same,( ecxept difference between rite/left)It was like he was there with us working on our carbs together. I'm just a amatuer with limited knowledge about my own bike, how on earth would I help someone in mile-high colorado? or humid tennesee?
I could get them made, but......other than that, i dont know mutch. how different are they from canadian needles?
 
on a electrical note....been working on my turn signals. cleaned out the switch box, wired up a set of after market 2n1 fronts that mount around the fork.
I have a working diagram, so I wired it up, and turned it on, and dim. the bulb in these is 3watts. no flashing, very dim. if I take the flasher out, it would be nice and brite, but of course, no flash. I almost threw the somsbiches agianst the garage door. paid 70$. could not fiure it out. I grabbed athe original tail light, threw power threw it, and flashed nice, and brite. WTF?? took three days to figure out to try adding another bulb(proposed tail flasher) , wired it on the bench, front turn, back turn flashed nice and brite! yeah! Glad I didnt trash my lights. too late to work more on the bike tonight. glad I figured it out.
 
ordered a 34 rear sprocket, and chain. already had a 18/520.
I blue loctighted the new rear sprocket on, put the chain on, and wont go around the front sprocket. damn!! thought it was a 520. turns out, its a 530. too wide for a 520 chain. gotta wait some more. was really hoping to put-put up and down driveway under its own power for the first time. oh well.
Iam also cleaning /fattening up a extra set of bs34's for a guy to sell. one of the carbs was terrible in the float bowl. gas can eat brass floats. so I ordered what I thought was bs34 brass floats. when I got them, they were for 38's, too wide.
If I order plastic floats, will they work? even though these carbs came with brass floats?
nothing done that nite, exept for a empty bottle of jaeger, and bottles of ranger IPA every were.
next day, I ate some greasy, wich helps my hangover, pound some gatorade, and head back to the garage.
I had been having problems getting all the wires and ign box in a small gutted breaker box used for hottubs, jaccuzzi's and such.
I had a round tool bag that might have worked, but the chain would cut into it(if I ever get the chain on).
So I re-think the fuse box, and changed some stuff around. Now I can get the lid on.
Ide post a pic, but Fotki is having issues. hope all is good there, I have pictures there that were loaded before my recent computer crash.
cheers!!
 
thats my electrical box. I couldnt get the ign module in there with the tw switches on one side, so I had to put one switch one each side. now I can put the lid on.
It has fuse panel, pwr switch, ign switch, ign box.
except now I have a open hole where the second switch was on the chain side. I guesse I'll have to buy another box and do it again.
 
Nice build angus.... I agree that the chrome fenders have the look... I don't know if you have the same fender or have since changed it. I have a flat boat trailer style fender off of my XS... it was on a 18" rear. I will have a load of parts going to the chrome plater this winter. Just figured I would throw it out there
 
you meen the kind of fender that is like 6 inches across with a 2 inch radius bend at the edges? you getting that chromesd? that be sweet.
have you made a biuld thread yet, hooligan? do it soon. its easy to keep going and not report in, then forget. recently i got my sprocket and chain issue figured out, and rode it up and down my 70ft drive way with the biggest smile i ve had in a long time. I'll report more in detail on that later.
 

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