'fn new guy

that is the style fender I'm talking about. I'm not using it though... I'm saying if you are interested in it, or need it I could get it chromed along with my other parts
 
how much? deffinately interested. I have a 18 as well.
I'll call you tomorow. I gotta hit the sack. I work in south tacoma, and the ft. lewis traffic is awefull in the mourning this year.
 
long time, no update, huh?
Well, after just riding up n down 300 foot dirt bumpy driveway, I got brave, and took her out on the main road. still no brakes mind you.
I get to the bottom of my driveway, and am eyeballin the amount of traffic comming and going. sometimes it a gd highway, and sometimes it like im the last man on earth. lucky me! not a car in sight.
pop in first gear, give a rev, and pull onto the street, uphillclimb, kind of steep.
Pulled really great thru to 3rd gear 45 mph, back wheel painfully needs balancing, got to the top of the hill to go home(no brakes). I coasted down the hill with my kill switch off, and used my clutch to slow me down in second. When I got to my drive, I turned kill to run, and popped the clutch, started right up, and rode on home.
when I pulled into my garage, I turned the petcock off to burn the gas in the carbs. The next day, I tried to start it, and no start. a little spray with carb cleaner, and it acts like its outta gas. I have gas. I have 34's, john needles.
it startes, and if i f with the throlle, full choke, it runs, but acts like its flooding. I tried with no choke, it only runs on carb cleaner., its bachfiring blue flame, and spitting back thru one carb I, m guessing my pilot is plugged, so Ill check it this weekend. got hooligans 38's to tune in, so they have to come off anyway for that. I have a fully charged battery, and the bike is charging(headlight brighter when reved)
Things to check:
pilots
floats
fuel filter
valves
camchain
any thoughts?
 
Besides get the brakes working? Sounds like your on the right track.
I might start with the cam chain, valves, then timing, before you start on the carbs. Just to be sure the sparks are coming hot and at the right time.
No sence in chasing spark issues through the carbs.
Leo
 
it may have been wishfully thinking on the charging. I re-checked the rotor, and it reads 6.5 ohms. barely a mile on a new rotor and its already shot. (thanks, mike)it was part of the batch everyone had trouble with a few years ago. thought I got lucky.
then I checked the cam chain, and rotated the motor counted clockwise by hand on the crank, and the cam chain was way loose. tightened that up. it was a new chain 2 miles ago, so not worried. I figure chain stretch.
Kick it over, starts up, but only one cylinder is firing. only the rite side is firing. I pull the plug on the left, and it is black. clean it up, check the gap at .030, throw it back in, still no fire. while it is still running on the rite side, I pull the cap on the left, and get that great tingle up my arm. (were is my gloves?) Yep. has spark, er, trying too. When I put the cap back on, it starts to fire just before the cap is slid on, so I hold it there, were it is firing, and rev the engine, maybe to clear out the fouled plug, started smoking like crazy(gas, not oil). put the cap back on, and still no fire.( BTW, I have a box fan pointed at the motor during this)
does this sound like a plug that is so fouled it cant be cleaned up?
Other than that, it runs off idle, so I'll assume the pilot circuit is plugged in that carb. my tank is clean,and I run filters. I also have the dual hp coil from mikes. the battery shows 12.5 volt when running.
Thanks, Leo for following this. I know I was taking a gamble sticking this on the back of my build thread..
 
Well I like to read all the new posts. It can take awhile if I'm not on for a few days. Sometimes I learn something, so it's worth the effort.
The 6.5 should charge Some books say 5-7 ohms. If it gets up to about 8-9 then it can stop charging.
I have one thats tests ok 5.2 ohms at room temp. After a hour or so ride, the volt meters is creeping lower and the rotor tests at 8.5-9 ohms.
Yes,I would say that plug is too fouled. Plugs aren't too expencive. The Autolite AP63 plugs are less than $5 a pair at Wally World. You can gap these out to .035 or .040.
I set mine to .038. Starts and runs well that way. The last set I put in, the open side of the gap pointed right at the intake valves on both sides. Just lucky that time.
This is supposed to help ignite the charge better. I have never had this happen before, but the plugs seem to stay a bit cleaner that way.
The pulling the cap trick works, They used to sell an adapter thingy that you plugged on the plug and the wire to it to do that without holding the wire.
I think it works by increasing the resistance to the spark. This extra resistance kept the spark from jumping untill the spark voltage built up to a higher level.
The resister wires and plugs do this somewhat. The resistance makes the coil build up to higher voltage before the spark jumps and also makes the spark last longer.
On a stock coil of 10000 to 20000 volts this won't work well. They can't build up enough voltage.
Now the 75000 volt green coil and the 82000 volt coils have plenty of voltage to get the best of the resistance for a stronger and longer spark. This also lets you open the plug gap to get a larger kernel of spark.
I guess I've rambled long enough.
Leo
 
i will get new plugs and gap to .038. I have what mikes calls the stock hi-per coil. the black dual tower.
I also will prolly take the carbs back off for cleaning, not till next weekend though. I'll post how it goes sunday.
thanks again.
 
Back
Top