Forking around with Lucille

[MaxPete]

Excellent - I'm making one of those tomorrow - and THEN - I'll get at it.

Frankly, I've been having too much fun riding Lucille to take her off the road to change those fork tubes and seals.

Have you ever seen the "I am Canadian" commercials? They are absolutely a riot.

 

[azman857]

I think I used a dome capped nut like used holding cylinder head or exhuast pipes on a deep socket with the dome in the socket to hold a bit of the nut out to insert in the damper rod, it its the later style. That and a long extension. 14 or 17 socket.

 

[MaxPete]

I think I used a dome capped nut like used holding cylinder head or exhuast pipes on a deep socket with the dome in the socket to hold a bit of the nut out to insert in the damper rod, it its the later style. That and a long extension. 14 or 17 socket.

Yup - thanks azman, but that would not work on a '76 since the end of the damper rod is a totally different shape from a 77-> rod. .

 

[Mailman]

Hey Pete, I hope you're going to document your project. A lot of us will have a job like this in our future.

 

[MaxPete]

Hey Pete, I hope you're going to document your project. A lot of us will have a job like this in our future.

YUP - I'm going to do my level best to pay back all the help everyone has given me by documenting this task.

Actually, I'm in the machine shop at school right now making the damper rod holding tool. I will make two variants - one out of a squashed pipe and the other a chopped up socket and I will provide dimensions so that it is easy for someone else to do that same thing.

Cheers,

Pete

 

[5twins]

Many times, you need to fudge up some makeshift solution to get one apart. Then, with the damper rod out and in hand, you can make a proper tool.

 

[Mailman]

Awesome thanks, I look forward to your write up!

 

[5twins]

Mailman, the special tool required for your '77 forks will differ from what Pete needs. Your forks are a one-year-only type but the tool required is simple to make.

 

[Mailman]

Oh that's right! Doh!

 

[geedubya]

YUP - I'm going to do my level best to pay back all the help everyone has given me by documenting this task. Actually, I'm in the machine shop at school riht now making the form damper rod holding tool. I will make two variants - one out of a squashed pipe and the other a chopped up socket and I wiull provide dimensions so that it is easy for someone else to do that same thing.

Cheers,

Pete

G'day Pete,

I think the chopped up socket will be a better alternative....please send "pictures with circles and arrows and a paragraph about each one!!!"

GW

 

[weekendrider]

To get a fairly good template you could glue a corrugated (cardboard) disc to the end of a dowel (broomhandle) then press it on the top of the damper.
The indention marks should give a reasonably good dimension measurement.

 

[MaxPete]

Okey dokey - so I have now accomplished the following:

• Made a special 34 mm damper rod holding tool (and boy - is it pretty!);
• Disassembled both of Lucille's fork legs (total piece of cake with the aforementioned special tool);
• Made a seal installation tool (some SOB had been inside there before me and had f@cked-up one of Lucille's fork seal pockets so it took a while to repair that damage along the way);
• Made a set of snazzy new aluminium vise jaw covers;
• Installed new seals, progressive wound springs, dust boots and fork tubes;
• Refilled them with 6 oz of 20w Lucas fork oil (it's the only thing named "Lucas" I will permit in my garage);
• Reassembled both fork legs (easy and fun with my special tool!;
• Installed the legs back into the triple-tree clamps;
• Wrestled the front wheel back into place;
• Installed the brake caliper, speedo drive, wheel clamps & nuts and front axle.

Remaining to do:

• Torque everything down;
• Bleed the brakes;

Then, before putting her back into service, there are a couple of other tasks I want to do:

• Finish installing the beautiful shiny fender and stays and the snazzy exhaust header pipes that I got from GeorgeOC (thanks SO much George!! );
• Figure out why she has been reluctant to turn over (low battery due to worn alt. brushes I think);
• Get inside the LH engine case and sort out my clutch actuator so that I can adjust it properly (the lock nut on the adjuster won't undo and the adjuster up at the clutch lever is screwed nearly all the way out);
• Fix the lights in the tachometer (on my last ride they were all out, so a little headlight bucket action is in order I think);
• Adjust the chain;
• Document the fork job for the Forum.

So, as has been the case with everything I have done to/with/for my dear Lucille, this fork thingy has been struggle, mostly because the PO (actually the previous one to the PO) was either amazingly careless or a nitwit - but it has come out in the end. I need to explain that Lucille's PO was a tremendous guy who was extremely knowledgable about bikes in general and XS650s in particular. He had bought Lucille as a barn-find mess from the true PO - and had planned to restore her, but had a surplus of projects and so he sold Lucille to me just exactly as he had received her.

Anyhow, I have taken lots of photos and will do a step-by-step on this entire 34 mm fork extravaganza including the tools, the tricks & tips, and the pitfalls.

For tonight, I'm tired and dirty and I want a shower and a lie-down - so a demain, mes amis!

Pete

 

[Mailman]

That's a good job to have done! I'm sure you'll be rewarded with a nicer riding and better looking Lucille!
And as a bonus, when you pulled your forks off, your bike didn't crash to the floor, like a certain someone I know.
I look forward to seeing your write up!

 

[MaxPete]

Indeed - and thanks for the warning on that. The earth around here really does suck!

 

[mrtwowheel]

Still can't rap my head around the idea you guys have of the necessity to make a special tool to take those bolts out, with or without the Locktite. Those forks are just like any other forks, that special tool is only needed as a last resort, just in case, and only if needed. Just gotta say, I don't get it.

Scott

 

[MaxPete]

But Scott ....oh dear boy, don't you know that it is all about Pete's Third Law of the Garage which clearly states:

3) He who dies with the most tools - wins.

Thus, if an opportunity / need to make or acquire a tool comes up, one is obligated to do it.

 

[grizld1]

Right, Scott, the tool shouldn't be needed to take the forks apart, but it will be needed to hold the damper rods for reassembly. Pete, you're an engineer, so you'll already be on top of this; but for those who need it, take a warning: although the Newtonmeter torque spec given is correct, both Clymer and Mama Yama say to torque the damper rod bolts to 41.5 footpounds! That's a misprint. Give 'em 14, no more.

 

[MaxPete]

Right, Scott, the tool shouldn't be needed to take the forks apart, but it will be needed to hold the damper rods for reassembly. Pete, you're an engineer, so you'll already be on top of this; but for those who need it, take a warning: although the Newtonmeter torque spec given is correct, both Clymer and Mama Yama say to torque the damper rod bolts to 41.5 footpounds! That's a misprint. Give 'em 14, no more.

Indeed - 41 is waaaayyy too much.

Anyhow - she's all back together and running well plus I did a nice 20 mile test ride this afternoon and she handles great. I will write this all up properly but I did find some interesting things:

• The stock springs were way weak and had lost about 1.5" of free length.
• There was a spacer on top of the spring in the stock set-up which is totally impossible to use with the new progressively wound springs - so I left it out.
• Getting the old seals out was difficult on the LH leg due to the butchery of the Lucille's PO;
• Gary's tire-iron / spoon mounted in a vise method worked great on the RH leg - quick. Easy and no damage at all;
• Those new fork seals are challenging to install. I could push them in by hand nearly half way and then I had to use my special tool to finish them.
• My special damper rod tool really is good. I used the rattle gun approach on the LH leg to get it apart but I didn't have an Allen key piece long enough for the RH leg (you need to go through the axle hole on that leg) and so I used the tool and a long Allen key. It was a much gentler approach and felt better.
• Putting the legs back together, I used the new tool and it worked great!
• Sadly, while I did take a lot of photos, I simply forgot to measure the damper rod holes.

Anyhow, she works and I'm happy.

Cheers,

Pete

 

[Mailman]

Awesome! And well done!

 

[grizld1]

The only "special tools" I've ever used for seating fork seals is a bit of 1000 grit polishing paper, a freezer, a heat gun, a tub of Race Tech seal grease, a pair of thumbs, a big socket, and a hammer. Never failed once.