Fuse box fix

Kinsygrl

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Can I just replace my fuse box with 4 of these
 

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My 80 xs650G had the fuse box removed totally when I got the bike. I installed the blade type fuse box from NAPA. I may have made a mistake by not using spade connectors and soldering directly to the fuse block spades. Thought is would be better? I think I over heated the wire and made it brittle and the first ride out one of the wires broke at the solder connection. Luckily I was at a farm supply store and went in and bought a cheapie solder iron and the store let me plug in to re-solder. It hasn't broke since. Maybe something to keep in mind?
 
Crimped spades may be the hot setup here. There's a LOT of vibration in this area, and the spade connectors that have dual crimps (one for the conductor only and the other crimps around the insulation) will provide a much more desireable strain relief than a solder job and a couple of layers of heat shrink sleeved over.

Solder only installation makes a rigid end to the annealed copper wire, which will work harden under the cycles of vibration and become brittle at the end of the solder joint, Thus the preference for the crimp on connector. Think of putting a thin piece of metal in a vice and bending it back and forth til it breaks. This is essentially what you have with a solder only joint on the tab.
 
someone ought to make a nice one with a single multi plug connection .:wink2:
 
Wow, thanks everyone for the feedback. Interestingly enough while I was out running around today it dawned on me I had never checked NAPA. I've checked autozone, advanced auto, radio shack. Well NAPA had the one pictured in Jets reply. The reason I need one is the tabs that hold my head lamp fuse broke off.
 
someone ought to make a nice one with a single multi plug connection .:wink2:

Bussman makes one (I am running one) with one main power hookup, and 6 fuse slots with their own powdered terminals off them. That way you don't have to run power to each fuse individually, just one to the whole block. Works great.
 
Bussman makes one (I am running one) with one main power hookup, and 6 fuse slots with their own powdered terminals off them. That way you don't have to run power to each fuse individually, just one to the whole block. Works great.

and you can do away with all those nasty spade connectors on the outside of the fuse box too ...perfect .:thumbsup: Wheres bussman ?..
bussman shouts:D
 
14 ga wire is plenty. The heavier the wire the stiffer, remember what happens to a stiff wire a few post back, they don't handle the vibes as well and can break.
I use 14 ga from battery to an inline 20 amp main fuse, then 14 ga from the main fuse to the key switch, then 14 ga from the switch to the fuse block.
I use one like in retroLS1's pic. You can get that same block with just four fuses as well as with 8 fuses. The four or six is ok but I think the 8 would be too big.
Leo
 
Do you have a link to the 4 fuse version, Leo? I run the 6 fuse block and it is stashed under my tank in a tight spot where a four fuse would fit a little better. The only four fuse box I could find was a four in four out.
 
Not so much. I was looking the other night so as to respond to a similar thread. Saw them on Ebay. Just put ATC fuse block in the search engine.
As I just did, Scroll through them and you will find some like item #360346454508.
This is for 4 fuses and has a bunch of terminals along the edge for grounding. It works like the hot side. Plug all the grounds on the block them run a wire from the bolt to a good frame ground or the battery.
Or Item # 180356101220, just the fuses, no grounding terminals.
Leo
 
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