Fuse box fix

Attachments

  • ATO Fuse Block.jpg
    ATO Fuse Block.jpg
    84.9 KB · Views: 206
Good one that looks great. Shame it isn't a single feed in otherwise I'd pick that up in a heartbeat though I may still consider splitting out my supply wire, its only 3 or 4 splices I guess.
 
Crimped spades may be the hot setup here. There's a LOT of vibration in this area, and the spade connectors that have dual crimps (one for the conductor only and the other crimps around the insulation) will provide a much more desireable strain relief than a solder job and a couple of layers of heat shrink sleeved over.

Solder only installation makes a rigid end to the annealed copper wire, which will work harden under the cycles of vibration and become brittle at the end of the solder joint, Thus the preference for the crimp on connector. Think of putting a thin piece of metal in a vice and bending it back and forth til it breaks. This is essentially what you have with a solder only joint on the tab.

Yes, I need to look at some of the suggestions listed on this thread. Now I feel a bit nervous about those soldered spades! :). Great thread by the way. What an awesome community here.
 
If you like the round glass fuses that looks like a nice one. I never liked the round glass fuses. Even when they were state of the art.
When the ATC fuses came out I rejoiced, no more round glass fuses. They are ok in a place that gets no vibration or weather, like inside your home electronics.
On a bike the ATC or ATM are so much better.
Leo
 
Thanks for the information Leo. I guess I'll have to pass on that one. I'll do a little more research. I was also considering going with a Centech AP-1 or 2 , Fuzeblock and the PC-8. These might be a little overkill for my application tho.


If you like the round glass fuses that looks like a nice one. I never liked the round glass fuses. Even when they were state of the art.
When the ATC fuses came out I rejoiced, no more round glass fuses. They are ok in a place that gets no vibration or weather, like inside your home electronics.
On a bike the ATC or ATM are so much better.
Leo
 
I got about 25 years out of the original fuse box. When it failed, I replaced it with a reproduction like the one in the previous post. It works fine as well. I mostly did it because I'm lazy. The reproduction meant I didn't have to figure out where to put a new one. I have an XS1100, and when the fuse box on that one failed, I went with the blade fuses. That one fit under the side cover exactly where the original one was. Anyway, that is how I made my choice. The electrics on both bikes work fine.

Posted via Mobile
 
I replaced my fuse box as well with the one pictured above, but I got it from Mikes for alot less then the ebay price. Im currently switching that box over to a blade type because Im just having too many issues with the connections coming loose, and finding the right fuses locally, could just be my wiring skills lol. Either way Im swapping it out for a blade box.
 
Old thread.... I think this would work on an XS650 too..
While working on the 87 Radian (Yamaha, still using the same crappy fuse block) several of the holder clips busted off soon as I touched them. So wandered out to the electrical parts bin and found one like this.
fuse block.jpg
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Glass-FUSE...608759?hash=item41c1f00c77:g:bbUAAOSwMvBc42X6
So I got to work
20190714_150343.jpg20190714_151956.jpg 20190714_151337.jpg 20190714_153004.jpg20190714_154402.jpg 20190714_154416.jpg
Zim zam back in action! no wire cutting, stripping, or soldering needed!!!
Cutting the slots with the dremel took about 10 minutes total for all 8 slots, didn't even break an abrasive wheel. :rolleyes:
Used a shrink wrap heat gun to fold the tabs on the cover in.
That fuse box is a bit pricey but since it was in MY parts bin, I must have found it cheaper somewhere. :laugh2:
May use some of that brush on electrical tape on the terminals, but not too worried. I drilled the plastic under the block (on the Radian) and ran in a sheet metal screw so it doesn't flop around, you can see the screw head in pic 5.
 
Last edited:
Old thread....
While working on the 87 Radian (Yamaha, still using the same crappy fuse block) naturally several of the holder clips busted off soon as I touched them. So wandered out to the electrical parts bin and found one like this.
View attachment 145323
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Glass-FUSE...608759?hash=item41c1f00c77:g:bbUAAOSwMvBc42X6
So I got to work
View attachment 145327View attachment 145322 View attachment 145324 View attachment 145326View attachment 145325 View attachment 145328
Zim zam back in action! no wire cutting, stripping, or soldering needed!!!
Cutting the slots with the dremel took about 10 minutes total for all 8 slots, didn't even break an abrasive wheel. :rolleyes:
Used a shrink wrap heat gun to fold the tabs on the cover in.
That fuse box is a bit pricey but but since it was in MY parts bin, I must have found it cheaper somewhere. :laugh2:
May use some of that brush on electrical tape on the terminals but not too worried I drilled the plastic under the block (on the Radian) and ran in a sheet metal screw so it doesn't flop around, you can see the screw head in pic 5

That was a perfect fit! Really nice, I think that Radian is gonna be a sweet little bike!
 
Back
Top