gggGary's latest XS project "madness"

[gggGary]

Heres an old thread on doing it. Clutch lever pivot bushing
I didn't do great on getting the hole centered, like in yours they wear all to one side and the reamer I had ordered oversized the hole a bit. I have a different idea I will be trying this afternoon that should make things a bit better.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

5twins' worn lever pic is a good one.



You *may* be able to save one by JB-welding a sacrificial bushing into the hole, centered in the original hole opening, and packing the epoxy into the worn area.


Then, after a full-hard cure, bore thru the sacrificial bushing. It *should* remain centered. Then, fit a new bushing in there...

 

[gggGary]

See the other thread; with the lever in a vice clamped on the drill press table a 3/8 face mill in the chuck bored the new hole right where I wanted it no walking.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

More crank obsession.
When the crank *twists*, an outer wheel shifts about the conrod's crankpin, displacing the wheel off-axis at 90° to the crankpin.


Now, when you do your runout tests, the runout *should* also appear 90° to the crankpin; i.e., to the front or rear when at TDC or BDC, or to the top or bottom when the pistons are at their halfway point.

If the runout doesn't conform to this scheme, consider something seriously amiss, or hari-kari...

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Ok, now for the crazy.
Part of the truing process of the crank involves *smacking* the flywheels with a lead hammer, 90° off the crankpin, effectively twisting that wheel into alignment. The outer wheels are visible, and accessible thru the sump opening. Suppose one were to apply appropriate violence, at the right place on one of the outer wheels?

I would never really suggest this, but in a severe, nothing-to-lose budget scenario, I'd love to try this on BobKelly's crank. (You there, Bob?)

I wouldn't expect getting absolute 'true', more like 'less annoying' acceptable.

Of course, a really good DTI setup would be needed for this...

 

[Mailman]

Ok, now for the crazy.
Part of the truing process of the crank involves *smacking* the flywheels with a lead hammer, 90° off the crankpin, effectively twisting that wheel into alignment. The outer wheels are visible, and accessible thru the sump opening. Suppose one were to apply appropriate violence, at the right place on one of the outer wheels?
View attachment 114089

I would never really suggest this, but in a severe, nothing-to-lose budget scenario, I'd love to try this on BobKelly's crank. (You there, Bob?)

I wouldn't expect getting absolute 'true', more like 'less annoying' acceptable.

Of course, a really good DTI setup would be needed for this...

I'd love to see you do that! What's more fun than "fixing" stuff with a hammer? Haha! " To a boy with a hammer, everything is a nail!"

 

[gggGary]

OK thats the second time you said DTI TM!
A shortcoming of the Mark I test gauge is that it moves only in a single dimension. The plan was to come up with an "everyman" test.
I may not have mentioned, tests were done plugs out, e-start on all 4 bikes.
I have a Lufkin .0005 dial indicator in good nick. with a drawer full of clamp holder accessories for it Prolly 2 people, one on the other side with a steady hand on a wrench would improve accuracy but indicating off the countersink creates problems also. I did attempt machining an extension to fit snugly in the bore and get the indication out more accessible but it proved more difficult than I thought to get a snug fit, after about 4 attempts it's getting short.......... I have some other ideas and am looking for input. I'm about to move this to it's own thread, and could set up the laptop in the shop for a bull session(s).
Bob Kelly and a BFH on the crank!??? TM you will roast in hell!

 

[gggGary]

Knock me over with a feather!

Near as I can tell the thin threaded extension is a little bent, but the crank is fine,
On the trip in to do this test the rotor read about 14 ohms so I replaced it.

More testing to come;

 

[Mailman]

Well that's pretty interesting! I'm learning new things almost daily around here.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Now, the next test.

With your DTI still setup like that, close to the roller bearing, grab the threaded rotor portion of the crank, and forceably try to move it toward and away from the DTI finger.

It shouldn't move, else the left roller bearing is worn.

And, since it shouldn't move (because it's stabilized by the roller bearing), how would you detect a twisted crank?

Hint: Why is the outer threaded portion still wobbling?

 

[gggGary]

Now, the next test.

With your DTI still setup like that, close to the roller bearing, grab the threaded rotor portion of the crank, and forceably try to move it toward and away from the DTI finger.

It shouldn't move, else the left roller bearing is worn.

And, since it shouldn't move (because it's stabilized by the roller bearing), how would you detect a twisted crank?

Hint: Why is the outer threaded portion still wobbling?

I get where you're headed TM, that is a .0005 meter, it's mighty calm. I did pull a measure out on the taper at the base of the threaded portion, and that came back good also. Too late, it's back together, I really think the threaded tang is bent but I'll throw the DTI on the slip ring. , Going to try really hard to go road test, 50ish degrees and dry here today, tomorrow. My guess is that there was a good old LH crash back in the bikes history. I did do a bit of front, rear wheel alignment eyeballing, that looks good. Then as now many a custom started out as a crashed bike.

 

[5twins]

My 1st rotor readings on the $200 Special looked bad, about 16 ohms, but it turned out to be nothing more than really dirty, filthy slip rings. Once cleaned up I got the more acceptable 5 to 6 ohm readings.

 

[MaxPete]

That thing is shaping up to be a major bargooon!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

...I get where you're headed TM, ...

Yeah, I like "Madness", a bit concerned is all, hate to see it parked.

...Then as now many a custom started out as a crashed bike...

Put my "Green Slug" on that list...

 

[gggGary]

Houston we have ignition! Got a Pamco and e-advanced wired in, it fired and ran off a shot of carb cleaner. Woot Woot. Tomorrow's s'posed to be in the 50's maybe I'll be able to run it up and down the road.
update 2-27-18 Put on a tank, seat, and a few (hah!) other items and.....

Took it around the 4 mile block and all is good. No funny noises no (unusual) vibration. Just needs about 200 hours and $2,000 worth of details.

 

[Mailman]

Very nice! And you know something? The spoiler is starting to grow on me! That bike is unique!

 

[Jim]

Excellent!!!

 

[mrtwowheel]

Fence post universal mounting bracket.

 

[gggGary]

The spoiler is starting to grow on me!

I'll get it boxed up and ready to ship! Note; the red front fender is already off and available also.
this was the tank that was on it, turns out fiberglas and bondo ain't a great cap to tank attachment method.

 

[yamageddon]

Great! Like those gauges BTW.