Good Heart, Bad Intentions: another build thread

[osteoderm]

1974 TX650A. Bought it this past summer with 3800 miles showing. I had been shopping for a bike to chop, but this one was so nice, I almost decided to restore it instead. Well, well, let's head down that well-paved road to hell, shall we?

 

[osteoderm]

Going with a PMA, Pamco, kick only, yadda yadda, and wanted to try something with the capacitor. Although I haven't seen anything like this, it seems so obvious that I'm sure I can't be the first one to try it!

The stock starter motor, complete:

aaaaaand disassembled, drive side bushing and seal removed:

With center section replaced with polycarbonate tube:

Got the polycarbonate tube from McMaster Carr. Took a shot in the dark on sizing (standard tubing to fit metric end-bells) and damned if it didn't turn out perfect. It did take a couple tries to get the tube cut precisely the right length, with a clean square end, but the fit is awesome.

 

[osteoderm]

Off to Radio Shack for some perf-board discs:

Another lucky break on the sizing; nearly "drop in". Only had to lightly file some clearance for the through-bolts:

Stainless machine screws and nylon standoffs mounted in the former brush-holder holes:

The nylon standoffs are notched to fit the edge of the perf-board disc:

 

[osteoderm]

All the battery-replacement capacitors I've seen for sale are around 40000uf in capacity, at least from what I can tell. The Accel and Sparx units vary in price, $15-$40, and would probably fit this housing, but of course I had to complicate things a bit.

I used four 25VDC 15000uf caps, wired in parallel (60000uf bank). They were about $3 each. They are a snap-in type, so the terminals are beefier. The perf-board is a good insulator (phenolic), and the copper trace provides plenty of "anchor" for the solder.

 

[PHeller]

wow

Highly innovative.

I don't know enough about electronic and soldering to attempt it myself, but it'd be really cool to have your battery hidden away next to the engine.

 

[OakBehringer]

Very cool. I only wonder about vibrations. Time will tell, this is a great idea.

 

[sidewinder]

Very smart thinkin...Havent seen it yet? As far as vibration...? The whole bike vibrates. Keep it up! You'll be all right.

 

[osteoderm]

My two main concerns with this have always been vibration and heat. I have a few ideas on how to manage both, but I'm prepared to test it to failure to see what works.

 

[gggGary]

Great seat O the pants engineering. I also think some support for the other end of the capacitors is needed or the perf board will quickly fail. an identically set up second pref board epoxied to the tops of the capacitors?

 

[Dusty]

Great idea. The tough part is getting at it but once it's sorted forget about it.

 

[PHeller]

I'm just thinking about all the alternative uses for the tube.

Mini-Tool kit with wing nuts on the bolts?

Posted via Mobile

 

[blackbetty]

Very impressed senor

 

[ProSimex]

coooooool!

 

[osteoderm]

Thanks for the comments! I had been wondering about using this area for something, if only just a wiring box. I can't stand fake oil tanks! If the caps don't work out, I may try a battery like this one. Would it fit? Only Dremel knows for sure...
I entirely agree that the internal assembly needs more support, but I'd prefer some sort of rubber mount. Still keeping my eyes open for interesting solutions.

 

[yamaman]

maybe fill the entire tube with clear silicone? or some other type of filler?

Posted via Mobile

 

[pumps]

Question. Most guys not using the starter use a block off plate to keep in the oil after removing the starter. What is your method to keep in the oil?

 

[osteoderm]

I believe that there should be substantial airspace around the caps, as insulation against engine heat. I'm also reluctant to completely "pot" the tube with any goop, as I have ideas for other things to put in there, eventually.

 

[osteoderm]

Question. Most guys not using the starter use a block off plate to keep in the oil after removing the starter. What is your method to keep in the oil?

The drive side end-bell has a neat and tidy 1-1/16" shouldered recess (where the bushing and rotor shaft seal used to live) which seems perfect for a 1"x1/4" aluminium plug to be welded into. The stock starter oil seal will be retained, and the drive-side bell left in place; access will be tight, but I should be able to take the off-side end-bell and tube off the bike without disturbing the seal and/or draining the oil.

I'll be sure to post good pictures when I get to this part!

 

[pregrid]

awsome shit right there!

 

[ippytattoo]

Have you done any testing of just the capacitor bank yet? Also, where did you get the caps from?