Having trouble splitting the crank cases. Help please

desmodromic

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I am having problems splitting my cases. Yes, I removed all the bolts that need to be removed. I did not remove the rotor on the crank, but I do not think this needs to be taken off for the cases to split. Does it? are there any tricks to slipping them? I've seen them heated up in an oven. Also I am overhauling my whole motor, does anyone have a list of what should be replaced? Seals, bearings, valve springs, ect. My tach said 20k but my title said 40k miles on the bike, so I am going with about 50k on my motor. Torque specs would also be nice.
Thanks
 
there are 18 nuts to remove plus 4 bolts at the back top, count how many you've got off 1 nut hidden behind clutch basket is sometimes missed, seals and gaskets definitely need replaced, bearings should turn free but no looseness or catches when turning, torque specs you mean like in the manuals? :D check the tech section free available for downloading... you'll need one anyway for re-assembly, the cases are basically glued together with Yamabond gasket sealant takes a little bit to get them separated
 
look for copper coating missing from the small end of the con rods....that means new rods.... i had to do that. 50,000kms and nothing in the motor was good....cost me a bit...wear on rockers and cam lobes...

do all seals, crank seals, counter shaft, shift shaft, clutch push rod, blah blah blah
 
look for copper coating missing from the small end of the con rods....that means new rods.... i had to do that. 50,000kms and nothing in the motor was good....cost me a bit...wear on rockers and cam lobes...

do all seals, crank seals, counter shaft, shift shaft, clutch push rod, blah blah blah

I count 14 nuts plus the 4 bolts on top, I am going mad, can anyone send me a diagram of where the 18 nuts I have to remove are located. I would really appreciate that. I guess I need new rods. I might also need a case as well, i attached some pics lmk what you guys think about them.
Thanks
 

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According to that nice German manual, there are a TOTAL of 18 fasteners. You have the 4 bolts across the top rear, 11 nuts on the bottom, 2 nuts under the left side cover, and that one hidden nut behind the clutch under the right cover .....

CaseScrews.jpg


Your rods may be fine. If the copper is gone all the way across, then they're shot. Silver on just the outer edges like yours may be normal. Your kick start area in the case looks fine too.
 
If after all the bolts are removed and they are still stuck together...this is what I did to split my cases.

I used ratcheting tie down staps and attached one to the lower mount and one tie down to the front and upper rear mounts (I used nylon webbing and the stock bolts for the rig) put the engine between two solid posts and slow ratchet to split them. You will want to allign the rig so that is separates straight across.
 
According to that nice German manual, there are a TOTAL of 18 fasteners. You have the 4 bolts across the top rear, 11 nuts on the bottom, 2 nuts under the left side cover, and that one hidden nut behind the clutch under the right cover .....
Your rods may be fine. If the copper is gone all the way across, then they're shot. Silver on just the outer edges like yours may be normal. Your kick start area in the case looks fine too.
read the Haynes wrong, the way they have it worded 18 + 4 :doh:
 
read the Haynes wrong, the way they have it worded 18 + 4 :doh:

lo. It's ok, I was going nuts trying to find the extra 4 nuts. I was thinking to myself it is impossible for 18 nuts. I finally was able to split them. I tossed them on a hot plate for about an hour and used a rubber mallet to tap it twice and it opened right up. Thanks for the help guys. I bought a Haynes manual today and I can't seem to find a spec for the connecting rods.
 
I keep my Haynes manual in the bathroom in case the TP runs out, lol - just kidding. All the manuals have mistakes, even the factory ones. Best thing to do is get a couple different ones and cross-reference between them. If something's still in question, ask on one of these forums.
 
I keep my Haynes manual in the bathroom in case the TP runs out, lol - just kidding. All the manuals have mistakes, even the factory ones. Best thing to do is get a couple different ones and cross-reference between them. If something's still in question, ask on one of these forums.

Lmao. I worked on my 848 and my Agusta and the service manuals are nothing but specs for every bolt. I guess I was kinda used to seeing a bunch of specs and not just reading tighten bolt till snug but not to tight that it wants to snap. lol
 
Just saved my a**, thx 5twins. My manual didnt really make it clear where that last bolt was behind the clutch basket. But of course one of the bottom studs was bent where the acorn nut reaches below the level of the oil drain plug. 2 hrs of rubber hammering and working it got the top off though. whew.
 
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