Miss November XS2 tribute

Hi Gary, as said, have fitted the new sump now and don't want to pull it off just to take another photo.

The conversion looks well made. Inside, there's a machined alloy block, held down by three screws fitted using the mountings for the original tea strainer filter. The alloy block has evidently been drilled out for a passage from the filter attachment to the oil pick-up point? I imagine oil will be drawn down from the sump, through the filter, up the attachment pipe and along inside the block to the original oil passage cast into the sump cover.

The explanation might sound complicated but the conversion looks like a very simple solution.
 
thanks! went snooping.
smedspeed 2.jpg
Also found a wix 57040 is a good possible filter, it's used in many Yamahas and quite few other apps
Product Specifications
Part Number: 57040
UPC Number: 765809570405
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Cellulose
Height: 2.075 (53)*
Outer Diameter Top: 2.815 (72)*
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed:
Thread Size: 20X1.5 MM
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Max Flow Rate: 8-10 GPM
( )* denotes metric
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.514 (64)* 2.257 (57)* 0.2 (5)*
This needs it's own thread, You got the juices stirring. LOL
 
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Hi Peanut, the Heiden tuning filter HT-6501 looks like an upgrade to the original internal filter? I like the idea of a modern paper filter, easily accessible so it can readily be changed at every oil change. But I'm sure there must be others who have done something similar to the Smedspeed offering.
 
yes there must be a few variations on the theme .
I couldn't quite work out how the sump plate fed an external filter but perhaps there were some components missing from the image ?
 
thanks! went snooping.
View attachment 143446
Also found a wix 57040 is a good possible filter, it's used in many Yamahas and quite few other apps
Product Specifications
Part Number: 57040
UPC Number: 765809570405
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Cellulose
Height: 2.075 (53)*
Outer Diameter Top: 2.815 (72)*
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed:
Thread Size: 20X1.5 MM
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Max Flow Rate: 8-10 GPM
( )* denotes metric
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.514 (64)* 2.257 (57)* 0.2 (5)*
This needs it's own thread, You got the juices stirring. LOL

Uh oh! The hobbyist machinists are gonna start gearing up! I REALLY like that spin on filter like that. :)
 
Hi Peanut, there's nothing missing from the image. As I tried to explain above, the original wire filter is replaced with a machined alloy block, with a filter attachment tube underneath. My understanding of how it works, oil drains down and is drawn through the filter, up the attachment tube and along a passage inside the bock to the hole in the sump, where oil exited the original filter, to be picked up by the pump. This is the area of the horizontal boss visible under the sump. Very simple. Nick stressed the need to fully prime the filter before attaching it.

Seems a bit expensive but then again you pay for the design, the machined block and machining to the sump. And hopefully benefit from clean engine oil.
 
Hi Peanut, there's nothing missing from the image. As I tried to explain above, the original wire filter is replaced with a machined alloy block, with a filter attachment tube underneath. My understanding of how it works, oil drains down and is drawn through the filter, up the attachment tube and along a passage inside the bock to the hole in the sump, where oil exited the original filter, to be picked up by the pump. This is the area of the horizontal boss visible under the sump. Very simple. Nick stressed the need to fully prime the filter before attaching it.

Seems a bit expensive but then again you pay for the design, the machined block and machining to the sump. And hopefully benefit from clean engine oil.
yes I'm sure that it is simple when one can see all of the components .......my apologies .......I'm sure I should have paid more attention to your previous explanation.
All I could see in the Heiden image was an external view of a plain sump plate.
Thank you for going to the trouble of explaining it
 
Would not feel comfortable and not a fan of the filters mounted off the sump plate.......Adding a sump extension to the spin on filter off the sump plate even less so.

What is not mentioned about the sump-plate extension is it can't be used on a Special frame unless the side-stand is removed.

Sump-filter has been around for more than 14 years. That's when i first saw it on the Aussie 650 site.
http://www.xs650.org.au/Technical Info/tech4.html

There is a woman member making the plates for a spin on filter.........Can't find it, keep looking
 
Would not feel comfortable and not a fan of the filters mounted off the sump plate.......Adding a sump extension to the spin on filter off the sump plate even less so.

Well, I'm new to XSs so probably very naive. It looks like muddergirl's conversion has a deeper sump to give additional oil capacity?

It would be difficult to fit a deeper sump on a frame like mine - I think it's an XS-SE - due to the side stand lug which leaves only just enough room to get the sump on & off. The exchange Smedspeed sump plate is no deeper and the external filter seems reasonably out of harms way.

But please let me know if there are other problems I will face in the future.
 
Hello from Minnesota... You have a good base for the intended project. Toss the want a be Brit look. We have a local who took a Kaw W650 (nice bike) and went all " British "...even brit frame stickers.
I notice you have one of the H-Freight lifts... fine lift for basic home use.... I have the Handy lift and one of the H/F units. Check out " redline wheel vise "...… a excellent wheel clamp to replace the weak link on the H/F unit.
 
Thank you Mike, the Brit look has been well and truly, uhm, tossed.

Yesterday, got the mudguards back from Mark Paxton who has used combination of chemicals and blasting to remove the pale blue paint. Unfortunately, the chrome underneath is not very good. As in, pretty bad - somebody has had a go at removing the chrome or at least roughening it up to provide a 'key' for the paint. Don't think I can refit them as is. Plan now is to buy a good chrome front mudguard and possibly get the rear guard painted same colour as tank.
 
A picture paints a thousand words:

PICT1807.JPG


Will have to have a wee think.

They're not really good enough to go back on like that. And it's not going to 'polish out'. Could see if they will take paint over what's left of the chrome. Must be some primer or undercoat that will go on.

Or see if I can find some cost-effective replacements.
 
yes they do look nice in black but I must admit personally I love the chrome more. I am staggered at how good the original quality of the chrome is . Most of the mudguards (fenders to you guys ;)) are in amazing condition after 40+ years compared to those on most cars of that period.
There always seems to be plenty for sale on ebay due to all the bobbin and choppin going on out there:)
 
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