Hello from Tasmania

Tangbs

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Hi guys, girls, all in between,
i have just purchased myself a 75 650, 7000 miles on the clock and have already been to this site more times then i can count in the last week, the amount of information on here is massive and a huge help! so thanks to everyone already for making my life so much easier.
I have been riding a few years first bike was a Kawasaki zzr250 good fun run around town scoot, currently tearing down and rebuilding a very neglected 72 Honda sl125 in-between trying to get my xs to run smooth.
i have already encountered a few problems which all seem to point to valve seals, so i am sure you will be hearing from me a lot more the deeper i dive in and the more i find needing attention.
replaced sparks, battery, and about to clean out carbs petcock and tank (if anyone has any tips for internal rust removal from the tank that they have tried and found worked, that would be awesome) and try and get this damn oil plug off, its seized in there well and truly.

day of purchase, sorry for crap photos plenty more to come the more i do to it :bike:
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that's a good lookin' bike tangbs! If you search around here you'll find a topic on tank rust removal. I think one of the more interesting posts was on the electrolysis method of rust removal. I think... Good Lord, don't trust MY thoughts, I'm usually screwed up in my advice BUT I do TRY...! I know there are some good topics on tank cleaning on here tho, so good luck!
 
On the drain plug. Get a six point 1/2 inch drive socket that fits. Get a long breaker bar. put the bike up on the center stand. put blocking under the breaker bar/socket so the socket is snug up on the plug. Get a large or very large friend to set on the bike so it wont move around.
Now pull on the breaker bar firmly with one hand, with a BFH in the other give the breaker bar a few good whacks.
The whacks with the hammer send vibrations down the breaker to socket and plug. These vibrations act like an impact wrench. The whacks also give very strong torque impulses on the plug.
This should break the plug loose.
If the plug is the front one, you can remove the sump plate and then you can put the plate in a vise and use whatever means you have to get the plug out.
Leo
 
Hi Leo
Thanks for the great tips, I bought a 24mm six point ready to try a few days ago only to find I got the totally wrong size haha. I didn't manage to have much luck with a 27 but I only had a 12 point on hand and didn't want to over do it, seems both plugs are pretty solid but the vice idea sounds great! Is the rear plug an issue I should deal with now /could it lead to more problems later on or not too much of an issue?
I read a few times around here that 95% or so is expelled from the front making the rear mostly useless.
 
The reason the plugs are so tight is because the last guy never replaced the sealing crush washers. They are CRUSH washers and need to be replaced once they are all flattened out. You can usually get several uses out of them but they do need replacing from time to time.
 
You need a big hammer the bigger the better not a nail driver.. A piece of pipe slid over your breaker bar for more leverage might do it.
 
Hi Tangbs and welcome,
best you pull both drain plugs, if only to reassure yourself their ain't any broken off transmission parts stuck to the plug magnets.
1/2" sq. drive air impact wrench will shift the drain plugs if a long breaker bar don't and FYI, a 27mm wrench is the same size as a 1-1/16" wrench.
 
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