Help bring an old flat track racebike back to life!

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

...I made a small bracket to hold the coil. I was making something more sophisticated, but decided to just do a simple mount that would use hose clamps, as that seemed more in tune with the character of the bike...

Yeah, period correct, unfortunately, but cheesy.
Similar clamping challenge in this racer restoration:

http://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650-road-race-restoration.36433/#post-367713

Were you considering some sort of band clamp(s) that would work with the aluminum block, like these?

 

[Apexdc]

The band clamps actually look pretty good. I'll check into them.

I was going to use the mount in the photo, but decided they were too slick. It is a tightrope some of the time as the bike was built in a Yamaha dealership in Alamogordo, NM and is pretty simply detailed. Nothing fancy, no allen head type fastners. Non stressed bolts like number plates and such are hardware store quality. I probably have 50 pounds of new SS recessed head bolts on the shelf, but they are just wrong on this bike.

The original coil(s) were just hoseclamped directly to the frame, no mounts or anything.



I've been using a Dremel with a brass brush all afternoon, just cleaning up little fastners and brackets. Much easier to replace them!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

I like those clamps! But, you're right, far too modern.

I've seen vintage oil cans on eBay.
Must be a "thing".
Couple of those might add to the period ambiance, if you put it in a show...

 

[Apexdc]

Ok, all you Honda brake experts!

The plater lost a part of my front brake linkage. In the attached photos, it is the small part at the top. The one shown looks just like the one they lost, but it has reverse thread. I have one possible place to get another, Ohio Cycle and will call tomorrow. Otherwise, I am wondering if this part might work. All I need is the end connector:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-305-...ash=item3d5d400a2f:g:pNcAAOSwk~ZZ7NJe&vxp=mtr

The Honda part number for the CB77 brake is 45410-268-030.
Any other ideas? How about the CB450??

Thanks for any suggestions!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Oh, man, old Honda part numbers. The middle number is the model code, like the Yam's first number. Drilling deep, past tons of cobwebs, I seem to recall:

268 - CB77 (305)
283 - CB450 (early black bomber)
292 - CB450 (later 70-up K series)

Can't tell you about interchangeably of those left-hand-thread clevis, something for the Honda forums. I'd expect that one to be harder to find, and seen some Honda threads discussing rarity of CB450 brake plates, something to consider. Wouldn't it be great if all twin-leading-shoe brakes used the same part?

 

[MrBultaco]

http://www.scramblercycle.com/honda-250-305-manuals.html

I use this site for my '66 Superhawk parts and service..

 

[Apexdc]

I finally found the part I needed with OhioCycle.com, He was my last lead. Every other vintage Honda part connection I could find didn't have it. One listed they had it, but when I tried to order, their inventory was wrong. OhioCycle had two!

Attached is a photo of my backup. There is a funky old motorcycle shop in the middle of the desert that has been out there probably fifty years, at least. They have a "salvage yard", so I went out there and started looking around. They had a totally trashed CL350 and I think I could have made the link on it work. Fortunately, Ohio Cycle had what I needed. One surprise was I thought there must have been zillions of Superhawks sold, as that was when I was in high school, but they were apparently not so common. Hence, not lots of parts still around.



Onward and upward!!

Thanks for the leads, guys!

Happy Easter, everyone!

 

[Apexdc]

I will be posting a bunch of photos of the new front wheel and brake and more machine work, probably later today. But I have a quick question. The kickstarter oil seal keeps moving out when I try the kickstarter. Can I use Yamabond or something similar to help keep it in place?

Thanks!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Sure. There's a large bearing surface in there, and the kickstart shaft shouldn't displace enuff to challenge the seal...

 

[Apexdc]

Since I am fitting a kickstarter, the original rear brake linkage won't work. So I needed to make a new rear brake linkage. If I remove the kickstarter, I can go back to the old linkage.

Attached are some photos of the fabrication process. FYI, I am self taught and have only been doing this sort of thing for about a year, so don't be surprised if you seem some odd techniques. I just don't know any better! I will post more later on the front brake/wheel.

 

[Apexdc]

I am going to finish all the cosmetic work for the show and then try to get the bike running. The alternator was removed but the crank end was not cut off. The original timing marks left with the alternator, but I can make new ones. My question is where TDC is in relation to the keyway cut in the crank. Can anybody help me with that info?

Thanks, David

 

[Apexdc]

Here is a shot of the finished brake. Should have the cable from Barnett in a day or two.

Did a test fit on the TT pipes. They look cool, but I will probably fabricate some sort of brace below the motor.

 

[Apexdc]

Had a bit of a change in plans. The son of some of our closest friends just lost a multi year battle with cancer. I think he was 31. Really sad when parents have to bury a son or daughter. The memorial service is the same day as the Quail show, May 5.

So Prom Queen won't be going up this year. I'm still working on the bike. In fact, I fitted baffles in the pipes this morning. I also devised a way to check ignition timing. I'll probably try to start up next week.

 

[650Skull]

Sorry to hear this.......

 

[Apexdc]

Thanks. Just part of life, but painful. I'll keep plugging away on the bike.

Mikey was up at the show last year, but in a lot of pain. He was a rider.

 

[Signal]

Condolences losing close ones is never easy.
With regard to your question in post # 71 (looks like you got it sorted though).
The key way on the shaft is at 6 O'clock when number 1 piston is at TDC. Another check is on the cam. If the cam has been installed correctly there is a hole for the locating pin of the advance mechanism. This should also be at 6 O'clock with no 1 at TDC, but if the cam has been installed 180 degrees out the motor will still run but the cam hole will be at 12 O'clock.

 

[Apexdc]

Thanks.

Good info on the keyway and the cam. My computer is also down now, so don't have all my photos. I'll post more later.

 

[Apexdc]

OK, here's the latest. Prom Queen is pretty much finished! I have tried to start her a few times and she fires for literally about a second, then backfires and stops. I just raised the idle a little and thought perhaps I need to retard the spark a bit. I have a new PAMCO igniton that has not been timed yet, so am just guessing on starting point. I have improvised new timing marks as the alternator is gone along with the stock timing marks.

There is no choke on the carbs, so used some starter fluid at first. Now there is still an attempt to run just on the carbs, it seems. I raised the carb needles one notch as I am about 400' elevation and the bike lived about 4200'. I have larger mains also, but they are probably not in play now. I also put larger pilot jets in. It has 34mm Mikunis.

There is certainly plenty of COMPRESSION, so something is going on inside that motor!

Any suggestions? How much throttle?

Here are a few pix. I'll try to get some nice ones outside in a day or two. Had trouble getting a typeface close to the Pikes Peak pictures. Actually had to use two images for each number and overlay them about 3/4 inch to make the typeface bolder.

K&N filters are off while I am working on starting.

 

[gggGary]

I'd try retarding the Pamco timing about as far as you can, see what happens.

 

[gggGary]

You can pull out the spark plugs and use a timing light with the e-start? . Maybe even kicking if you have a helper. Keep the plugs grounded any time the iggy is live. Watch out about leaving the ignition on. Use a separate 12 volt battery for the pamco if you just have a capacitor..