Help. Getting back on the road.

joebgd said:
Where do you suggest I order the pads from?
I am going to brush some good red grease to lube my chain, any thoughts on that?
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Hi Joe,
just about any bike shop can sell you XS650 brake pads. Visit Mike Morse' Vintage Brake site to get the good ones.
Any lube that's brushed or sprayed or soaked onto a chain will follow the same over-lubed/flung off/under-lubed cycle.
I recommend using a ScottOiler or other continuous chain lube system instead. The proven 5X chain & sprocket life
gets the Oiler's cost back on the second chain & sprocket swap you didn't have to do.
 
Ya it's definitely on my list this season to improve the front brakes. Right now the back brake has as much stopping power I feel. I see dual front disks on allot of bikes and even basic little scooter looking things, and or a much bigger drilled front rotor. I'm going to start with the yamaha pad kit.

I've been reading and I see a preference for and against progressive rate springs. What is not to like about dual rate springs? Suspension is needed all around on my bike. I'm thinking to get basic inexpensive suspension this season. Unless I find something much better for a little more. I was hoping to spend no more than 200$ that's for front springs and rear suspension.

Also what are air caps? Thanks in advance for any input and all have a great weekend. My only riding will be to mom's. I'm trying to finish up a front porch. I'm doing railings sat, and figuring out a skirt. So wrenching will be a little at night. Think I'm gunna go ahead and put on the hd jcwittny chain.
 
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When well maintained the stock brakes do a decent job. but rode madness and resto back to back. When I kinda missed a turn off, I was surprised by how much longer resto took to haul down. I had gotten used to the power of the dual disks on madness, just say'n.
resto spacers 004.JPG madness front detail.jpg
 
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PS a mostly no longer used way to change ride height on the forks, there are serious drawbacks to pressurized forks, especially if they weren't designed for pressure!
 
joebgd said:
Ya it's definitely on my list this season to improve the front brakes. Right now the back brake has as much stopping power I feel. I see dual front disks on allot of bikes and even basic little scooter looking things, and or a much bigger drilled front rotor. I'm going to start with the yamaha pad kit.

I've been reading and I see a preference for and against progressive rate springs. What is not to like about dual rate springs? Suspension is needed all around on my bike. I'm thinking to get basic inexpensive suspension this season. Unless I find something much better for a little more. I was hoping to spend no more than 200$ that's for front springs and rear suspension.

Also what are air caps? Thanks in advance for any input and all have a great weekend. My only riding will be to mom's. I'm trying to finish up a front porch. I'm doing railings sat, and figuring out a skirt. So wrenching will be a little at night. Think I'm gunna go ahead and put on the hd jcwittny chain.
Click to expand...

Hi Joe,
main problem with the '77 & newer XS650 front brake is the master cylinder area is sized to work two disk calipers and
North American XS650s only have one caliper.
Fix 1) :- Replace m/c with one with a smaller piston.
Fix 2) :- Add the second brake disk & caliper.
Either fix will get you better brakes but don't stop there, swap in stainless brake hoses all round and drill all the disks.
The usual "progressive" spring ain't progressive, it's dual-rate.
It's soft until the tighter wound coils touch each other which makes the remaining coils work harder.
Rear shocks, swap 'em out for better ones "you don't get what you don't pay for."
Air caps let you increase the front fork's spring rate by pressurizing the air inside them.
OK on forks that were designed to have them,
(or like the Dowty Oliomatic forks on my 1947 Velocette, relied on air pressure alone)
of dubious worth otherwise.
 
Mike's has progressive fork springs, I believe he is meant to say dual rate? Does anyone know for sure and what the rate is. I see central has progressive brand dual rate springs at 25/35 pds. I'm trying to order springs and shocks this week.



Does anyone have a pic of the original tool kit. My bike had one and I'm on a mission to get one. I see them labeled for a 650 on eBay but idk if I trust it some look like different size pieces. I wouldn't want to but if I remember it came with an open end or a tube that would be the wheel nut size you would than put the open end wrench on.... idk really need a pic of the tools that originally came with my 1980 special.
Edit- Fre.. got me thinking with the post below. I really just need an equivalent to the tools in kit. I want to be able to fix shit up to a broken chain. So ill need a way yo get wheels off. Ill toss a decent adjustable on board.
 
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joebgd said:
Mike's has progressive fork springs, I believe he is meant to say dual rate? Does anyone know for sure and what the rate is. I see central has progressive brand dual rate springs at 25/35 pds. I'm trying to order springs and shocks this week.
Does anyone have a pic of the original tool kit. My bike had one and I'm on a mission to get one. I see them labeled for a 650 on eBay but idk if I trust it some look like different size pieces. I wouldn't want to but if I remember it came with an open end or a tube that would be the wheel nut size you would than put the open end wrench on.... idk really need a pic of the tools that originally came with my 1980 special.
Click to expand...

Hi joe,
FWIW "Progressive" is the spring making company's name. Dual-rate springs are what they make.
I've seen some posts on original tool kits on this list, try using the "search" button to locate them.
If you want an original toolkit for originality's sake, fine. For tools that will actually work well
rather than being cheap enough to give away with the bike and short enough to fit in the bike's
designated storage space best you use the original kit inventory as a guide to getting good quality tools.
 
Nice 2m that's what I was curious about. Also on my 80 the what I believe to be stock tool bag retention strap was a tight coil very week spring resembling a large o ring.

Edit- thats a good idea i learned on here. I never thought to lube or condition the rubbery bits. Im start with plastic side cover gromet mounts.
 
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My changing system is testing fine at the battery. When im in traffic tho, the battery dies. Im going to do the leds everywhere i can. I guess ill get em from Mike's. Ill start with head and tail.
Ill do a search but
If anyone has a link or a quick how to on using the leds. Dealing with blinker unit.
Also i want to get the stock exhaust more open.
I have the carbs very rich and want to get more air flow. I have the bafles out of the air boxes. Just want a more open exhaust. Ill search that as well. Can i just drill the baffles?
 
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I saw the tech section, opening up stock exhaust. I'm looking for like a cross section or exploded view of stock exhaust. I don't see where it Leeds into that pope competing out the end plate. I just decided I'm going to start with holes drilled if I want more I'll take the end plate off as done in tech. I would like to know what goes on in there tho how it comes out that little pipe and it must be outside the pipe if theses mods work? Some guys just ran a rod into the pipe and knocked out a baffle,
 
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On stock front master cylinder, 1980 what is the stock piston bore? I thought I read somewhere it is 16mm but Mike's has an oem mc 77-84 at 13mm. I have stock single disk. If it is in fact 16 I want to change it.
 
Stock was 14mm for the '77 and newer master cylinders. The 16mm size (or 5/8") was the '76 and older unit. I'm not sure what size Mike's is selling, probably an aftermarket replacement that could very well be a different size. If it is 13mm, that would be better than the stock 14mm. But honestly, I don't feel there's anything wrong with a good working original. They stop just fine. If you read around the forum here, you will see many recommend an 11mm one. I tried one and don't really care for it. Yes, it gives more "feel" and progressive engagement, but at the expense of lots more lever travel. You have to pull the lever in about half way before anything happens. Smaller than stock may be better but I feel 11mm may be a little too small. I'd like to try a 1/2" (12.7mm) next. This may be the ideal compromise as it's size is about midway between the stock 14mm and an 11mm. I would hope to see better "feel" but not so much lever travel.
 
Ordered braided brake lines.
I'm looking to get something to hold my cell phone to the bars so I can see it and as important be confident it will stay there until I take it out. Any suggestions?
 
Noticed my ignition was very lose. I'm thinking that may help now that it's tightened correctly. Is there a ground in the key cylinder? Is that necessary for proper ground and function.

Also if I heat with blow dryer or torch from a distance, can I get my kick start rubber off. I have a peddle and an idea but If it doesn't work out I want the rubber back.
 
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no ground in there but an r&r of the contacts inside the ignition switch is seldom wasted work.
 
phone holders;
I have used rokform for thousands of miles and have been pretty faithful about the leash. Thursday I didn't have the clip on the bike I took and sure enough saw a flash and the phone was gone at 55mph, went back cursing a blue streak, it was laying on the centerline and was not damaged (any worse than it already was) inside it's rokform case.
 
I would think that if you heat and lube the kick start rubber, you should be able to remove it intact. But if not, genuine replacements are still available from Yamaha for just a couple dollars, shift rubbers too. Both are great quality cheap parts. Don't buy repros, you will most likely regret it and need to replace them again in just a couple years. On the kick rubbers, be aware that there were 2 sizes. The earlier kickers had a bigger 15mm diameter shaft, later ones a smaller 13mm one.
 
Thanks for the replies.
Def lube on trying to remove the kick rubber. Good call I wasn't thinking that. I think that will work.
I'm going to Google rokform and nos rubber bits.
Edit, I just googled and found genuine kick rubber for less than 4$.

For an experiment I was putting my bike up on the center stand at night and I noticed the left carb didn't have oily black on it after a few weeks. Def think the oil in the breather goes to that carb when only side stand is used.

Also idk exactly why but I put ab a tablespoon or so of two cycle oil in my gas tank. Idk if it's placebo or whatever but I think every few to five tanks I might put a couple tablespoon of two cycle oil in the gas. Any history on putting a little oil in the gas of 30yr old bikes?
 
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