Help. Getting back on the road.

I'm doing good air pressure worked got caliper cleaned up. I'm having trouble getting dust boot and ring to stay. I thought that was going to be an easy part. Any suggestions for that would be very helpful.
 
That is tricky, and if the dust boot has been soaked with fork oil it grows and has to be replaced. The boot should be a slip fit on the caliper not bigger. I show this stuff in the thread I referenced way above.
PS RH mirror is LH thread. LH nuts are usually marked with notches like the one on the right in this pic.
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I have nothing. I'm going to order mc rebuild kit. I was going to get from Mike's. Ill search for a.yamaha build kit first.
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I just took line off at mc it's working fine, didn't seem like fluid in the line up top tho. I'm going to get harbor freight pump if I can't get it bled out tomorrow. Does the hf brake bleed pump come with all fittings and hoses I need to bleed mc brakes? Does it come with instructions. Although I'm sure I can figure it out. I'm more wondering about the proper hoses and fittings to bleed motorcycle brakes.
I really don't want to buy hf pump cause I'm going to use it once. I have done the thumb on master cylinder and got plenty of pressure. I do the bleed up there and get fluid, when I go to put the line on I here it slowly sucking in. That's where my problem is right at the mc. The lines and caliper are full. I'm going to try it one more time. I just got an idea I'm go try it.
 
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Ng, I tried everything. I'm going to get the brake bleeder from hf.
Is there anything else I can use the hf brake bleeder for? Or the mighty vac?
 
Nope there's one more "trick method"
Remove all the fluid from the MC reservoir, suck, sop, whatever. Remove the brake line from the caliper, you can leave it on the MC. Remove the caliper, remove the pads. you have some brake fluid in the caliper, drain it out. Leave the bleeder closed. Put a c-clamp on the piston but do not tighten. blow air in the hole where the line goes. Your goal is to get the piston as far out as it will go without popping out of the seal. Now slowly pour brake fluid into the caliper filling it. put the line back on hold the caliper so the line port is at the top. Slowly tighten the c-clamp retractin the piston all the way. this will force brake fluid up the line through the MC and into the reservoir. now reassemble the caliper, pads, remount. Add fluid to reservoir and you will have brakes. Follow the all uphill to the reservoir method get the few small remaining air bubbles out you will have hard brakes.
 
I haven't read the whole thread so apologies if this has already been mentioned .
Did you fit a new M/C that was already assembled ? did you liberally lubricate the piston and seals with brake fluid before reassembly ?
I found It made a huge difference to assemble both the M/C and caliper with plenty of brake fluid but even then the M/C piston got stuck at the bottom of its travel and I had to wait overnight for the M/C piston to return before I got some pressure and could bleed properly.
 
Man I have nothing, hf was out of the bleeder. I tried your technique Gary, twice actually I did that a few days ago and again after reading your post. The mc filled from the caliper and topped the mc right off. Idk where air is hiding in there. I'm going to bring it to "the guy" hopefully tomorrow. I want to have my bike back. Thanks for all help and I'll update when I discover the issue.
 
Well I have brakes, def better than ever. She use a new piston and dust boot on next brake service.
 
I've been riding allot this fall and winter. I keep it registered and insured all year so...
On an 80 special where is the flasher relay located?
 
The 552 worked a treat. Plug and play. I bought a 3 prong electronic one 1st no good.
My back rest"sissybar" broke. I use it to lock my helmet to and I have a bag on it. Can that be welded. It's formed tube steal?
 
The 552 worked a treat. Plug and play. I bought a 3 prong electronic one 1st no good.
My back rest"sissybar" broke. I use it to lock my helmet to and I have a bag on it. Can that be welded. It's formed tube steal?

Hi joe,
generic 3-prong flasher units are wired differently but they might work OK if you swap the flasher socket wires around.
But even if they flash they still won't work with the stock "auto-off" module, only the appallingly expensive stock flasher will do that.
2-prong generic flashers plug into the 3-slot socket 2 ways. One way the flasher works, t'other way, it don't.
If the 2-way is electronic it'll pulse at the same steady rate regardless of how big a current load it's carrying.
Mr, Stupid found out it'll still pulse the same if it's shorted out. 4 pulses then the fuse blows. Took me half a pack of fuses to find the cause.
Betcha that STEEL (steal is when you take stuff that ain't yours) -tube rack is too thin to weld except perhaps by TIG.
I'd try either brazing (prep:- squeaky clean & lotsa flux) the break with a reinforcing piece inside or putting a steel tube sleeve over the break and pop-riveting it in place.
 
Thanks, ya I doubt it's worth me getting it welded. I'd have to bring it to an iron steel manufacturing shop right in the town next to me. I might bring it over for a goof and see what they say. I am playing with a tube outside as a sleeve and or inside as well.
 
For the manual petcock, when your not running do they have to be off. If I put the one on my bike, it's a vacume pc, if I put it on prime so it's just like open, the left carb leaks gas pretty bad. The bike runs fine but does this show a problem? Like do manuals need to be shut immediately after stopping? I might get in the left carb to check for leaking float it comes out the left idk if that is cause that's the way it leans on the side stand but I feel like it's something with that carb.
 
Vacuum petcocks rely on the vacuum to operate.....meaning the carb is shut off when the engine stops running.........the prime position lets the fuel flow into the carb bowl before starting the engine. On my bike i never had to use the prime to start the bike, (normal every day or couple of days riding), unless i had removed the bowls or after a carb clean or after a time in storage when i had emptied the bowls........when the engine starts the petcock should be turned to on..........The whole idea of the vacuum petcock was so the owner didn't have to turn off the petcock after every ride......*Edit....Vacuum Petcocks cannot be manually turned off

Manual Petcocks should be turned off after every ride.............Not turning them off can lead to fuel leaking past the Float valve and overflowing from the bowl to the ground or back through the carb into the engine sump..........The float valve does stop the fuel from entering the cab, but they are not designed as a shut off valve, merely an on/off fuel inlet as the fuel is used from the bowl as the float lowers and raises.

Vacuum petcocks wear and they do leak.......this can be caused by a faulty diaphragm, and/or grit. There has been successful repairs and some not so.......some aftermarket Manual petcocks have also been known to leak due to bad manufacturing

Fred may chime in. There is a procedure that can be done to Vacuum petcocks to turn them into manual operated Petcocks

* Edited; Vacuum Petcocks cannot be manually turned off.
 
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well yes they do.
My 79 had vacuum petcocks and a PO changed them to manual. Occasionally they will leak if the bike is left on the side stand
I leave my bike for up to 2x weeks between rides so I always turn my petcocks off in case petrol leaks into the crankcase diluting the oil I think it would be advisable to do the same with vacuum.
 
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For the manual petcock, when your not running do they have to be off. If I put the one on my bike, it's a vacume pc, if I put it on prime so it's just like open, the left carb leaks gas pretty bad. The bike runs fine but does this show a problem? Like do manuals need to be shut immediately after stopping? I might get in the left carb to check for leaking float it comes out the left idk if that is cause that's the way it leans on the side stand but I feel like it's something with that carb.

Yeah, there's a problem with your carb if it immediately leaks when the bike is shut off. By your description, I'd say, you have a problem at the float or float valve, shutting off the petcocks will not fix that.

Scott
 
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