Help. Getting back on the road.

I used a JC Whitney HD chain for nearly the first 10 years I had my 650. It worked fine and served me well. When it came time to replace it, I went with something a bit better, a D.I.D. standard chain (not o-ring). The D.I.D. is supposed to be one of the best standard chains out there and can be had for around $40 if you shop around. Personally, I don't feel the need for a fancy, expensive o-ring chain on the 650, it's not that big and powerful.

Hi 5twins,
the cheaper the chain the quicker it and it's sprockets wear out.
Renolds tech pages say industrial #50 chain is only rated at 5HP.
I reckon that to transmit 50HP a #530 bike chain needs to be the best one you can get.
My XS650 is running a #530 O-ring chain and is lubed with a ScottOiler.
I expect it to outlive me.
 
Yes, that's true, but the Whitney HD chain isn't that bad. XSJohn used to swear by them and I was satisfied with mine.
 
Yes, that's true, but the Whitney HD chain isn't that bad. XSJohn used to swear by them and I was satisfied with mine.

Hi 5Twins,
Guy I know buys #50 ag-chain by the 10-foot pack and swaps it out when it lifts off the sprockets by half a rollersworth.
You use J.C.Whitney #530HD chain and clean and lube it now and again.
I use #530 O-ring chain and a auto-lube it with a Scottoiler.
And every single one of us is right!
 
https://m.banggood.com/12V24V-QC-3_...lid=240712&sc_lid=145723973&sc_uid=diUdQFvFR3

Idk if that link will work, it looks like a 2 prong connection for volt meter with a usb port. Should I just run a wire from the pos of battery and ground? It looks like the amp part just reads the draw from the usb port.
I have an analog amp meter how would I wire that to read the total load off the battery? I see other combo v a masters but none with a usb port. I'm planning some long trips this summer so I wanna be proactive in possible problem detection.
 
You don't want to wire it directly off the battery or it will be always on. Tap into a switched power wire just after the key switch somewhere. That way it will turn on and off with the key. I think I tapped my voltmeter into the power feed wire (brown) for the front brake light switch.
 
I have a voltmeter USB combo on period piece it has an on off switch on the back I have it on a 2 wire SAE connector direct to the battery (charger plug in). actually kind of handy that way for battery state of charge checking, and lets you charge the phone without the bike running, PS phone charging for an hour or 2 not an issue RE battery to start. On my cruiser I can leave it on all night....
Like this one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-Voltme...918a:m:mL5SFIT1min588V5QRcyHgA&frcectupt=true
I prefer to see voltage at the battery, as compared to off some loaded up lead in the bucket.
Ammeter a different story perhaps the remote reading digital is your best answer. I have one I used for headlight testing awhile back but haven't put it into the charging circuit, would be a fun thing to do. (yeah I'm a twisted SOB)
 
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here is t
https://m.banggood.com/12V24V-QC-3_...lid=240712&sc_lid=145723973&sc_uid=diUdQFvFR3

Idk if that link will work, it looks like a 2 prong connection for volt meter with a usb port. Should I just run a wire from the pos of battery and ground? It looks like the amp part just reads the draw from the usb port.
I have an analog amp meter how would I wire that to read the total load off the battery? I see other combo v a masters but none with a usb port. I'm planning some long trips this summer so I wanna be proactive in possible problem detection.
here is the way mine is connected Joe voltmeter connected on 79 sf.jpg ----a 7$ cheapo from walmart online.It reads 1 volt less connected here than at the battery.
 
Got it, thanks guys. I'll repost when I get it. Gonna look a little more, the one ggary had put a link for looks might be more practical.
And, what are you all using for phone mounts. I'd like to use my phone GPS but don't want to worry ab losing my phone.
 
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Got my new mp clutch cable and lever. So far looks good. Just the lever the o ring doesn't go in and if I tighten the shoulder nut much more than hand tight it drags. I greased everything. That's just the lever. expecting allot of rain but ill post once I have the cable installed.
 
How much will I lose on my adjuster if I take one link out my drive chain, I am really close to maxed out on my adjuster and the chain still needs to be a little tighter. If I take one link out will it bring me all the way in? I kind of like it on the end of the adjustment but it has to be tight enough 1st.
 
530 chain is 5/8" pin to pin, since you have to take out 2 pins of length at a time, that's 1 1/4" but that gets divided by 2, 'cause it only shortens one of the two stretches of chain, sprocket to sprocket. So one link removal will move the adjuster 5/8" That what you are looking for?
I'll just assume you aren't doing this to band-aid a worn out chain? :yikes: :wink2:

crackcase 002.JPG
 
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Yep that's what I'm looking for.
Lol no the chain is a brand new hd jc Whitney. I didn't count links tho. Just wrapped it around and took off extra length.
Reading new posts I'm a little concerned ab my carbs, my bike seems to idle best closer to 1500rpm. Ill see how it goes when the weather warms up. The main problem is if I set the idle to the 1200-1300 area when I go to take off after a stop light and give it gas it stalls. Idk really thinking out loud here,
I'm driving myself crazy trying to get the tire centered in every way. I finally got it to where I'm good with it.
 
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Yep that's what I'm looking for.
Lol no the chain is a brand new hd jc Whitney. I didn't count links tho. Just wrapped it around and took off extra length.
Reading new posts I'm a little concerned ab my carbs, my bike seems to idle best closer to 1500rpm. Ill see how it goes when the weather warms up. The main problem is if I set the idle to the 1200-1300 area when I go to take off after a stop light and give it gas it stalls. Idk really thinking out loud here,
I'm driving myself crazy trying to get the tire centered in every way. I finally got it to where I'm good with it.
Did you get new front and rear sprockets too, with new chain? Lots peeps say "oh they look good", but if chain worn, teeth worn too.
 
Oh snap, I didn't get new sprockets, I got a new 30t rear about maybe 7000 miles ago and the bike has a total of 17300 miles on it. I'll take a close look at them.

What is consensus on drive chain lube? I have a can of spray cable and chain lube but I went with brushing grease on both sides and the rollers.
How do those alignment tools work for you all, you know the one t hat clamps to the rear sprocket, anyone have an opinion on them?

Motion pro cable is working a treat, I went with the in between the carbs routing.
 
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Oh snap, I didn't get new sprockets, I got a new 30t rear about maybe 7000 miles ago and the bike has a total of 17300 miles on it. I'll take a close look at them.
What is consensus on drive chain lube? I have a can of spray cable and chain lube but I went with brushing grease on both sides and the rollers.
How do those alignment tools work for you all, you know the one that clamps to the rear sprocket, anyone have an opinion on them?
Motion pro cable is working a treat, I went with the in between the carbs routing.

Hi joe,
at 17,300 miles your front sprocket is worn out, buy a new one.
At 7,000 miles your rear is most likely still OK. Mind you, running a 30T rear gives you 4 speeds + overdrive, eh?
Chain lube with your choice of propriatory chain oil, brushed on grease or repurposed crankcase drainage all have the same problem:-
Initial over-lube followed by fling-off then running dry until the next lube job.
I run a ScottOiler instead and refill it's reservoir with chainsaw bar oil at ~1/4 the cost of their posh stuff.
 
I'm wanting to do LCD tail and stop light. On search of the forum it looks like there is a good option available at auto store.
I want to do the cluster bulbs and license plate bulbs. I'll probably start with the bulbs. Is there a thread anyone is aware of that shows how to change the tach, spedo, bulbs.
 
I'm ab to go get some LED bulbs for license plate light.
How many bulbs are in the tach, spedo,? Are they the same as wedge type like in plate light?
Edit- got em, 2 LED bulbs for plate light, $16+ for a pack of two. They work no prob and look pretty stout, prob won't get hot and burn out as fast as the filament bulbs.
There is a cool readily available low profile LED tail brake light. I'm try and post a link to 650rider, shows the light. I'm going to do the gauge and cluster bulbs then maybe the tail brake light. Might do the signal bulbs also.

http://650rider.com/index.php?name=...ostorder=asc&highlight=led+truck+stop&start=0
 
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