help identifing some resistors,

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hey everyone, Im curious if anyone might be able to help me identify these resistors,
I am somewhat familiarr with the decoding of them,but these ones are confusing me
this is a part of a tool of mine and according to some guys this is whats wrong with the tool, seems easy enuf to replace and see if it fixes it, (they) say its an inline fuse ,but I believe it to be a resistor to a small computer in the tool,(its a Ryobi brad nailer) cordless, any hooo, if you could help me identify them I would love that,
the colors appear to me to be brown,green gold red black, when I check them with my multi meter there is no resistance atoll... total continuity , Unless I don't understand what scale to use on the meter, it seems some guys online have supposedly replaced this part and it fixed the tool, but no one says how they got the new resistors or where,
IMG_0469.JPG
 
upload_2019-11-16_13-38-55.jpegupload_2019-11-16_13-39-8.jpegthis is two photos I found on the web of another guy trying to identify them to, I still couldn't find any answers he got either,
 
a little bit more imfo, I have no resistance between the center(fuse) and no resistance between the resistors (both sides)
 
From my Air Force days.... Bad boys rape our young girls but Violet gives willingly. :laughing:
Resistor color code was drilled into us.
Black 0
Brown 1
Red 2
Orange 3
Yellow 4
Green 5
Blue 6
Violet 7
Grey 8
White 9
Gold ±5%
Silver ±10%
None ±20%
The reason you're not reading the resistance is both sides of your resistors are connected, so you're reading back through the circuit. You have to isolate (de-solder) one end to read the resistor.
 
From my Air Force days.... Bad boys rape our young girls but Violet gives willingly.
That's the way I was taught in collage. The instructor did tell us what the original saying was. It was not very nice and definitely not politically correct.
 
Tolerance mnenonic: Get Some Now :laugh2:

I attended Electronics Class "A" school well before Political Stup...uh..."Correctness" was a thing.

The one for remembering the order of clutches on a Model 28 teletype still makes me giggle.
Sammy Can't Find Sally's Little Twat
Selector, Code, Function, Space, Letters/Figures, Type Box
 
It was not very nice and definitely not politically correct.
Back when I joined, race relations was still a problem (early 70's). Any instructor using the "original" ditty would have been busted on the spot.:yikes:
 
The silver item is a thermal fuse sat between two sources of heat. I am quessing these to be 10Ohm wire wound resistors but cannot tell Red from Brown at this time of night in the poor light. When the resistors get too hot from high current drain the fuse melts so cannot be reset, must be replaced.
 
My lesson in color code was "Better Be Right Or Your Great Big Venture Goes West.". High School Electronics course. He did mention there was another "dirty" version but, did not elaborate further.
 
paul Sutton,
The silver item is a thermal fuse sat between two sources of heat. I am quessing these to be 10Ohm wire wound resistors but cannot tell Red from Brown at this time of night in the poor light. When the resistors get too hot from high current drain the fuse melts so cannot be reset, must be replaced.

thanks for your response, Im getting a little tired trying to fix this lol, (diminishing returns on my time), but I determined I can fix it, your answer was the best so far in helping and I was hoping you could elaborate, or you could help me test it further, If it has continuity thru the fuze with it sodered in that's because its going "around it"??? and it may be as simple as replacing that silver part in the middle, or even jumping it out to see if that's the problem??

here is the complete computer controller for the tool for as much as I paid for the tool
https://www.ereplacementparts.com/switchcircuit-board-assembly-p-1799282.html

the part Im replacing is coved by the little white heat shieliuding sock in the photo
 
I suggest you do a search on Ebay for thermal fuses. Yours has a red end so by checking the pictures and comparing the marking you will be able to work out the temperature rating of your fuse. These fuses melt at a certain temperature and the markings on the silver case will tell you what this is. Once it melts it must be replaced. If your meter shows the fuse is still conducting then the thermal fuse is still good.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-pcs-Th...hash=item41fae62004:m:mvqdnR8o38iM2Yx9HpSLgoQ

Note how the fuse will have a temperature rating marked on it. These thermal fuses are used for safety reasons. Should they melt it is due to excessive heating as a result of something failing in the system. Examples: A hair dryer where the fan motor fails. A power supply where excessive current is being drawn. In both these examples a resetable fuse, automatic or operator, could lead to fire or further damage to equipment.

I believe this resistor/fuse combination is protecting a power supply i.e. ensuring excessive current is not being drawn. Therefore I believe those wire wound resistor have fractional values. I believe the first two colors are Black and Brown. This indicated to me that the resistors may be something like 0.1Ohm or 0.01Ohm. Values like these are typically found in power supplies. The Green and Red bands are probably resistors ratings like thermal coefficient. This will explain why you get a meter read of 0 Ohms i.e. the Ohms values are very low.

What you need to do is try to find a 5 Band color code for resistors with fractional values to confirm I have not read the bands in the wrong direction.
 
You need something like this. I believe the Gold band is probably the multiplier x0.1 rather than the tolerance.

Resistor-Color-Code-Calculator-3-4-5-6-Band-Resistors-Calculation.png


Once you confirm the value then Ebay will be the source. Assuming Black Brown Gold then the value is 01x0.1 = 0.1 Ohms.
 
TM, those inductors look just like resistors. A great joke to play on someone would be to throw a few into their resistor collection. I'm sure Homer Simpson would have done that at the nuclear power station:sneaky:.

Entry 2 does show a coil in someone else's but I assumed wire wound resistors and the PCB in Entry 1 has them labeled as R68 and R69.
 
I still haven't quite figured out what steps to take yet, all the reserch I have done I haven't found any resistors that have the "pattern" that these do, with two lines being closer together on one end, and I haven't unsoldered them from the little board yet just because im still trying to figure out what im working with here, resistors? inductors(not sure what an inductor is) or a fuse?
I agree the middle one is a fuse, and I would think the outside ones are resistors because from what I understand this little device controls the amount of juice the computer sees, but I could be wrong,

funny how the few things I have found on the internet say that "guys" have just replaced this, but of course they have no imfo on what it is or where they got the parts, unless they bought the entire set up for 66 dollars, again I didn't even pay that for the tool,
Im not giving up yet, but dang close lol
 
im still trying to figure out what im working with here, resistors? inductors(not sure what an inductor is) or a fuse?
Your answers are on the board... R68 &69. "R" denotes resistor. F1.... The "F" denotes fuse. As I pointed out before, you're not gonna learn anything about them while they're still connected to the circuit.

Untitled.png


....and I haven't unsoldered them from the little board yet just because im still trying to figure out.....
Sometimes ya just gotta make the jump... :rolleyes:
 
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IMHO the resistors are 1.5 Ohms each. That's brown, green, gold = 15 X0.1 = 1.5 Ohms. The other brown (or red?) and black bands at the opposite ends are tolerance and maybe temp coefficient or wattage (varies by manufacturer). The color banding doesn't start from the black end because a value never starts with zero. Both resistors are in parallel on the board so the combined value is 1/2 of each one, or 0.75 Ohms total. Depending on what meter and scale you are using the value could display as zero. You need a meter that reads 200 Ohms full scale or less and has a 1/10 Ohm digit display (XXX.X). The wattage rating is also important, the larger the size the bigger the power rating.
 
copy that Jim , I will remove them and check, and im pretty sure my meter does read 200 ohs
I get it, ya cant help me if I cant help myself:shrug:
 
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