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I've never drilled a slide, never felt the need to, so I can't comment on whether it helps or not.

I'm not familiar with that Y-104 needle. How long is it from the top clip slot to the tip? It has the best chance of working if it's close to the 50mm length that the stock ones were.

You said you found your old carb parts. If that carb kit you got is the Heiden Tuning one then, as Skull mentioned, it's not very well suited to a stock sized 650. Apparently Heiden designed it to work with the 750 big bore kit and their own 2-1 exhaust. Most guys with more stock bikes haven't had very good luck with it. The needles in it also differ in length from the stock ones.

We always seem to be coming back to the needles. I don't think you'll get it tuned very well until you get some around the same length as stock. Then on top of that, those pleated pods you have will most likely also cause some tuning issues. Glad I'm not trying to tune that thing, lol.
 
I've never drilled a slide, never felt the need to, so I can't comment on whether it helps or not.

I'm not familiar with that Y-104 needle. How long is it from the top clip slot to the tip? It has the best chance of working if it's close to the 50mm length that the stock ones were.

You said you found your old carb parts. If that carb kit you got is the Heiden Tuning one then, as Skull mentioned, it's not very well suited to a stock sized 650. Apparently Heiden designed it to work with the 750 big bore kit and their own 2-1 exhaust. Most guys with more stock bikes haven't had very good luck with it. The needles in it also differ in length from the stock ones.

We always seem to be coming back to the needles. I don't think you'll get it tuned very well until you get some around the same length as stock. Then on top of that, those pleated pods you have will most likely also cause some tuning issues. Glad I'm not trying to tune that thing, lol.

Well i just got this reply by mike XS quote: '' It is designed to work with the stock 650cc motor, air pods, and aftermarket exhaust.
You should be good to go.''
Either way this is going to be a looong thread :boxing:
 
Update problem found and fixed!
This was literally years trying to fish the problem,
but FINALLY found out that the mechanic i had sent the engine to rebuild assembled it out of timing by two teeth..
Thanks everyone for all the help after years of desperation trial and error im finally able to cruise along the shoreline with her :bike:

-Now i need to upgrade the clutch it's slipping!
New clutch cable is in and i've read that i have to replace the springs and check the plate specs.
Im guessing it still has the original springs and plates i've opened it once to fix the shifter but can't recall the plates i do have a picture thought.
What would be the best upgrade here?
Remember bike is 1972 xs2.
cheerios!:cheers:
 

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Wellll I do offer the 8 plate conversion, GLJ installed it in his 72 and it's working great. I've had one in the 750 madness for two years and quite a few miles now.
Originally pioneered by ippy tattoo I picked up the torch last year. The big thread here; https://www.xs650.com/threads/interest-in-8-plate-clutch-conversions.56486/
I've sold about 13 sets not sure how many have been installed and run. GLJ was the first to ride one from this batch but they are the same as the ones Ippy tattoo sold a few years ago
 
Wellll I do offer the 8 plate conversion, GLJ installed it in his 72 and it's working great. I've had one in the 750 madness for two years and quite a few miles now.
Originally pioneered by ippy tattoo I picked up the torch last year. The big thread here; https://www.xs650.com/threads/interest-in-8-plate-clutch-conversions.56486/
I've sold about 13 sets not sure how many have been installed and run. GLJ was the first to ride one from this batch but they are the same as the ones Ippy tattoo sold a few years ago
Was reading the thread and im happy to go with that conversion seems the way to go and not that much of wrench work!
what about the springs ?
How can i get the parts im from Portugal "Europe"
 
From your pic, it looks like the clutch has been upgraded already to a '74 and later unit.
 
From your pic, it looks like the clutch has been upgraded already to a '74 and later unit.
You dont say :umm:.
I get really confused there are some mixed parts from other years like the carbs and...
Even though it's slipping the 8 plate conversion would work here?
That's the problem with not buying it stock, i've had to pretty much redo it all... you never know the whole story under the metal :/
An idea would be just to order first the springs and see if it gets any better?
 
Yes, you could just try replacement heavy duty springs first. Many times that fixes the slipping. If it doesn't then you will have to go further and spend more.
 
They could all be like that, you just can't see it. That could make them late stock springs, the ones used in the 6 plate clutches. In fact, that could be what's been swapped in. Count the friction plates.

be4mDZL.jpg
 
I count 6 plates, and the blue markings on the springs i am positive they are only from a marker pen. A friend of mine just sent me this he has on inventory any guess if they would work?
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Measure the thickness of the old plates you took out and the new replacements. The early clutch that would have come stock on your '72 used 3.5mm thick friction plates. The later clutch used 3mm thick friction plates. I said your clutch looked like a newer one from seeing the pressure plate with the alignment hole in it. Early pressure plates didn't have that hole .....

c0KGVLw.jpg


Now, one would hope that a whole later clutch has been swapped in but I suppose it's possible only the newer pressure plate was added. Finding 6 friction plates isn't a tell-all because the early clutch and the last version of the later clutch both used 6 plates. You'll want to examine the inner basket to positively I.D. your clutch as an early or late type. On the late type, after the friction plates are removed, there will be a steel plate left in the bottom of the hub, retained by a wire. This is a spring-loaded damper plate that eases engagement .....

NdSuyvJ.jpg


wFoFzed.jpg


Also, the retaining nut for the inner hub will have a tabbed lock washer that folds up against the side of the nut to hold it tight .....

ldnrSnB.jpg


JXW8se7.jpg


nzYB7PU.jpg
 
So i found some pictures back from the engine rebuild and @5twins will you look at that, they look blue indeed! Any masters care to comment? :)
 

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Yes, that is an '80 or later 6 plate inner hub with the damper plate retained by the wire in the bottom. That's good, I think it's the best clutch to have on most 650s. As I mentioned earlier, it will use 3mm thick friction plates so measure those new ones you got.

Truth be told, until recently I've never replaced the friction plates. The factory plates seem very robust and I never found any originals worn too thin. I couldn't see spending $80 to $100 on replacing still good parts. I do replace the springs though. They all seem to need that. Those 40 year old original springs have gone soft and are no good anymore.
 
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