help with turn signal wiring !

[lopejd01]

ok so PO did not have anything wired to this bike. there was no headlight,speedo/tach, signals, left bar switch, nothing. there is a right bar switch and it looks like all the wiring is there. I have a huge spaghetti pile under the top tree.

I'm trying to wire everything to this bike but following these wiring diagrams is hurting my head as I have all this mess of wires and cant figure out what to hook them to. refer to pictures- I circled two wires that I found are the feeds from the right bar "on/off" switch. I'm thinking I can just wire the headlight,speedo led,and tach led to these two wires and that way I will have them all powered when I flip the switch. Signals on the other hand are causing me confusion. I'm using the two wiring diagrams pictured, the original one is confusing since I'm not running any signal indicators and all my electrical components are aftermarket. The second wiring diagram is much simpler but would really only help if I was rewiring the whole bike.

so basically, I need to figure out where to wire the pillbox and than where to wire the signals. I'm trying to figure out how to do this by using the stock spaghetti pile I have under the tree. Oh, and the signals I'm using are tiny led's that are self grounding and only have one pos wire (if that makes a difference)

any help would be appreciated

Bike is a 77'

 

[5twins]

You'll want to find a double dark green and a double dark brown (called "chocolate" on the diagram). Those are the leads from the rear signals. Connect a front signal into one side of a double, switch in the other. You may need to clean the wires to find them, they both look black when dirty.

 

[jayel]

about as simple as it gets

 

[pamcopete]

Here is a diagram of the stock turn signal wiring:

The Kill switch or on / off switch on the right side controls is not adequate to handle all of the load that you want to connect to it. It will fry in a very short time. It is designed to only carry the amps for the ignition system.

 

[XSLeo]

The on/off switch on the right side controls is the engine stop switch. The two wires coming from it are red/white wires. one goes to power after the key switch, the other hooks to the ignition and coil.
It's so you can turn off the engine in an emergency situation with out fumbling around looking for the key switch.
A good thing to have.
Leo

 

[lopejd01]

yeah the kill switch is wired an working, I meant to say the "on/off" headlamp switch just below it.

forgot to mention, I'm using a 6 wire pillbox left bar switch (two button and signal switch).

ok so I found the rear signal leads in the spaghetti- picture. I just need to wire the front signals directly to them and than the switch to them. what about power? are there other wires that NEED to be wired to the bar switch for functionality? the only thing else I plan to wire to the pillbox is the horn. having trouble finding what wires are used here too. I know the pink wire lead directly to the horn but I'm not sure about the other. shows a brown one from the right bar switch but the only one I have leads directly to the key switch.

also i"m attempting to locate the flasher relay as it looks like this is all thats really needed in getting them to work. took a picture of what I'm guessing it is? googled for a picture and came back with like 5 different looking ones. this is from the battery box area

 

[DogBunny]

jayel and pamcopete's drawings are very helpful, but don't really apply to my situation.
I am working on an '82. The flasher relay has 2 terminals. The cancelling unit has six (!) terminals. What happens if you get rid of the cancelling unit and use jayel's or pamcopete's drawing? Does the center-push-cancel feature of the turn signal switch still work?

I am re-wiring and simplifying, but keeping the turn signals. Maybe I should convert to an earlier year's turn signal relay and canceller?

 

[pamcopete]

Dog Bunny,

There are no adverse consequences to simply unplugging the self canceler and discarding it. The manual press to cancel on the turn signal switch will work just fine.

 

[fredintoon]

Hi lopejd01,
the flasher unit is under the gas tank by the ignition coil.
FYI, the stock flasher is the ONLY one that'll work with the self canceller AND it'll need two 27W bulbs plus the 3W indicator bulb to give it enough load to flash.
And it may be a cylinder or it may be a rectangular block depending on the bike's model year and you'll need to replace it anyway because two LED's won't work it.
You'll need a flasher that's compatible with LEDs.

 

[DogBunny]

pamcopete, Thank You!!! I was just about to research Honda switch housings that don't have the center-press-cancel feature or generic Emgo turn signal switches in order to do a swap. Nice to know that I can use what I've got in a simplified scheme.
But now, I have to wonder why the heck Yamaha included the self canceller and its relatively complicated wiring if it isn't necessary.

fredintoon, good info, but I doubt the original poster is listening -- his last activity on this forum was in 2012.

 

[fredintoon]

Hi Dogbunny,
ever drive a car that didn't have self-cancelling signals?
Self-cancelling may not be a legal requirement but it sure is a handy feature.
My XS11 still has it's 4-ways although it's signals don't self-cancel any more since it's stock flasher died and Mr Cheap replaced it with a low-cost generic and a time or two I've noticed that it's flashers were still working a mile or so past the turnoff.
And no, I didn't notice that the OP had dropped out and that it was your post that leapfrogged the string to the top of the page, perhaps they should put the post dates in bigger writing?

 

[pamcopete]

The logic for the self canceler is more random than logical. It's a combination of time, distance and the phase of the moon. The second Tuesday of the month is also a factor as that was the day I was fixin to make a left turn in front of a beer truck waiting at a stop sign when the canceler decided to cancel the left turn signal and beer trucks wait for no man, so the only thing that saved me was his very fast acceleration because he was across the intersection in a flash (no pun intended). In a sense I lost out because it was a Coors beer truck and had we collided and I survived, I may have gotten a life time supply of my favorite beer.

You think I'm joking about the phase of the moon and the second Tuesday of the month? Well, here is the explanation of the algorithm from the Haynes manual page 162:

"The purpose of the system is to turn off the turn signal automatically after a period of time or distance. At a very low speed, the system will cancel after a distance of 164 yards has been covered. At high speeds, the system will cancel after a time of ten seconds has elapsed. When travelling in the low range of speeds, the system will cancel after a combination of time and distance."

Of course, the cultural differences in road etiquette between Japan and the rest of the world also comes into play. In Japan, one is supposed to be more visually engaged in ones surroundings, like being able to anticipate the intentions of the other driver without the aid of crude electrical devices that are prone to failure. Here in the US, there is no road etiquette. It's every man for themselves and we tend to rely more on gadgets.

 

[fredintoon]

Hi pete,
nobody said the system was perfect or that you didn't have to watch the effin' thing, eh?
And it's a metric bike so that while 164 yards is weird, 150 meters seems about right.
Sorry about the lack of free beer but hey! getting pissed for free is only good if you are not stuck in a wheelchair so you can do so.