Help with where to start.....

^Could be. When I said "Special" that included lift off seat :) Don't have a full-blown Special w/o that ...

Hi xjwmx,
and how special does a Special have to be to be considered full blown, eh?
You reckon that besides the sloped shocks, a 16" rear wheel, a too-small gas tank and rototiller bars, it needs an '80 or newer lift-off seat and perhaps the TCI system too?
FWIW, the rear shock angle is the only difference between a Standard and a Special that can't be changed to turn either into t'other by simply swapping parts.
 
The rototiller bars have to go. I suggest replacing with same-era CB750 bars. Same length so no need to change cables and hoses. Cheap because they're as hated in that community as the rototillers are in ours. But perfect for this application and will not give you rotator cuff.
 
The rototiller bars have to go. I suggest replacing with same-era CB750 bars. Same length so no need to change cables and hoses. Cheap because they're as hated in that community as the rototillers are in ours. But perfect for this application and will not give you rotator cuff.
Hi xjwmx,
like this, from 1989?

fawedding.jpg


XS650 Heritage Special with CB750 bars.
I found they were a bit too high for me but they are perfect on my XS11
And the XS11 bars are just right on my Special as this 2007 photo shows, along with the twinned front brake to help the bike stop with the heavy SofA sidecar it was hauling back then.

IMAG0005.jpg
 
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That's it, man. And congratulations 40 yrs too late :) I might look into xs11 bars. I like the look.
 
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So I've got the correct gage wire and a new fuse box so I will start re wiring the bike and see if I can't get her to turn over at at least run the lights without blowing a wire.

I have rewired everything, new battery, new hard lines and starter lines, Lights and Horn work and the electric start kept kicking, but she didn't fire... just a roll then grind, so I replaced carbs, throttle cable, and am currently working on adjusting the spring tension on gear 4 to see if it fires... anyone have any other suggestions?? Thanks!!
 
If you're having problems with the starter motor engagement, why don't you use the kick starter to see if the engine will fire up? You may have done too many attempted starter motor starts and weakened the battery. But, even with a weak battery, it should start using the kick starter.
 
Well the battery was fresh when it grinds then dies, however the kickstart was not working either but I think that was more because it wasn't used often nor do I think I used the right amount of foot power on it.
 
That's pretty much common sense... although the clutch handle doesn't release very well so maybe I need to put more tension on the spring to the cable... could be why it didn't fire with the kickstarter... if it never releases the clutch than it cant turn over
 
Ok... got it all out back together after I tightened he spring on gear 4... the good news is there is no more grind... the bad news is that it won't fire... the electric start just keeps rolling but never fires the motor, the kick starter doesn't fire it either, so what's the next step to troubleshoot? (FYI yes it has fuel) .... Anyone have thoughts?
 
You need Gas,Compression and Ignition AND all in the right order to run..... your missing one of those or it would run
you do good work ! I like the new fuse box !
#1.... do you have spark ? pull the plugs lay them on the head and crank it over like you were trying to start it.....
#2 the XS650 is unlike anyother bike I have ever owned and I've owned over 35 of them if you touch that throttle when your trying to start it it will NOT FIRE !!!!! i get around that by a shot of quick start and try again ....
...... that's all I got for ya sorry ...
....
Fredintoon: you said and I quote "
A thing to check is if the carbs slow running needles still have the EPA mandated brass sealing plugs over them.
If so the first thing to do is rip them out of there and toss them. If they are still in place the carbs will still be set impossibly lean AND the slow running system can't have EVER been cleaned properly."

does that include My '82 ...... I've alwayse hated the EPA crap,.... but I wann'a get it liscnsed again one day ! if they have to inspect my bike will they look for that plug ? should I pop it out tinker and put it back on there ? LOL
Later all !
Bob........
 
Yea, I tinkered last night a bit and realized I just threw on the back up mikuni carbs I got with the bike, so I did not check how it was set and whether or not it was synced... I don't know too much about carb adjustment but I'm going to do some research and pull her off and see what I can do... I DO have spark, I tested both plugs on the engine before, and I'm trying to determine the best (and cheapest) way to check my compression, my best guess right this minutes is Im not getting the right fuel/air mixture from the Carb, but it's also not putting out any smoke from the exhaust which leads me to believe the fuel isn't making it past the carbs.... what are some suggestions?

Thanks!!
 
Fredintoon: you said and I quote "
A thing to check is if the carbs slow running needles still have the EPA mandated brass sealing plugs over them.
If so the first thing to do is rip them out of there and toss them. If they are still in place the carbs will still be set impossibly lean AND the slow running system can't have EVER been cleaned properly."
Does that include My '82 ...... I've alwayse hated the EPA crap,.... but I wann'a get it liscnsed again one day ! if they have to inspect my bike will they look for that plug ? should I pop it out tinker and put it back on there ? LOL
Bob........

Hi Bob,
I dunno if that particular piece of EPA nonsense was applied to '82 US models or not; you'll just have to go and look.
If you can see the screwdriver slotted tops of slow running needles you are golden.
If all you see are brass plugs with little holes in them your bike is still EPA'd and you KNOW what you gotta do.
And if you are swanning around unlicenced on public roads you have worse problems that if your bike is still EPA-compliant.
And while I doubt that the average spotty teenage vehicle inspector will know to look at your bike's carbs, MikesXS still sells
the EPA plugs but they are a swine to install and worse to remove. What will coincidentally hide the slow running needles
is an extra pair of the top hat shaped rubber plugs that seal the carb idle jet installation passages.
They just plug into place atop the needles and also work to keep the needle heads dirt free.
 
All the BS34s had the plug .....



..... and removed .....

BS34MixScrew.jpg
 
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