Heritage Custom Build Thread

Steve C

XS650 Addict
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Location
Portland Oregon
Feel like my COVID Quarantine build is finally starting to get off the ground! I got this bike almost a year ago. Several projects in front of it are done and sold the bike it's taking the place of...('79 GS 425).
Here's some pics of the bike when I got it...
before 4.jpg
before 2.jpg
before 5.jpg


Very clean! clocks say 2770 miles, numbers match, gave $800 for it because....wait for it...Death whine in the engine. Crank alignment WAAAYYY off, Gary Hoos knows. So apart it comes. I love how clean it is, no rust, minimal grime, good starting place. Apologies to the 'Special' fans out there but I wanted to knock some of the ugly off this thing so pulled it down to the frame, cut all the extraneous tabs and escutcheons off. Here's where I'm at with the chassis:
Roller 2.jpg
roller.jpg


More to come.
 
Cool, what about the motor? Glad you asked. After laying downs my money and getting it home, the thought was...'how bad can the noise be? something stuck in the starter clock works? grumpy clutch? I can fix this thing quick!'... Nope. Crank was toast. Took out the engine and pulled apart, split cases. Going with 277 crank rebuild & all new mains and rods, Megacycle cam. Shout out to Gary and Hoos Racing!!!
277 crank.jpg
cam.jpg

750 kit from Mikes
750 kit on.jpg
case closed.jpg

and a crank mounted Vape 277 ignition!
I like new shiny parts :)
Looking for a clever idea for customer sidecovers, something light and simple, was thinking some black plastic maybe? or maybe perforated aluminum?
Cylinder head is in the shop getting cleaned up, valve grind and new springs and seals installed.
Getting excited!
 
Luv'd the brake lever.... " Ooops ".. I always tighten the lever clamps enuf to hold but allow them to move if it falls over... has saved " ooops " a few times.
Why did you go with the 227 crank... I saw side covers once where the fellow opened the panel and inserted a nice metal mesh behind it.... you can use the stock units as a mold and experiment with fiberglass and vents.. louvers...
poster paper..... cut and mount for ideas.... transfer to aluminum sheets.. with rolled edges or again louvers... I did that with a 350 Honda.. really look'd great...
 
Thanks for the ideas on the side cover, It'll be fun to experiment with.
As for why 277? Did the reading and just seems like right way to go with a twin, especially one with no counterbalance. My GS425 twin was counterbalanced and pistons were timed 180 (one at top and one at bottom, so yes still stopping and starting together) and it was hands down the smoothest vintage bike I've owned yet. Not expecting any huge power gains or a perfectly smooth motor, but I wanted it to be smoother. I've test rode a few of these and even around town, it does not take much speed or RPMs to feel the vibes of both piston's starting and stopping together. The first brand new bike I ever had was and '02 SV650 so got a soft spot for a 90* v-twin too. Also wanted a crank mounted ignition.
This guys watching my every move too.
Hamburger helper.jpg
 
It may be a stock Standard seat pan but it's obviously got a custom cover, very nice looking though. Yes, getting rid of that "horrible hump" stock late Special seat is one of the best visual improvements you can make, along with ditching those equally horrible stock buckhorn bars. If you look closely at that original seat you'll find it covered with bruises from being poked with 10 foot poles, lol.
 
IMHO, the 270 or 277 is smoother at high RPM than the 360. Not so down low. Just the opposite of the 360. I don't believe there are horsepower gains simply going flat plane to cross plane. It just depends upon where you want to live, or a matter of preference for purpose. As for me, I'm not crazy about 270 parallel twins, but I don't find fault with those who prefer it. The 277 650 I rode, I thought was horrible, while the others trying it couldn't seem to praise it enough.
:cheers:
 
Ya, it was meant for the hinged type seat frames. Had all the rubber buttons on the bottom meant to hit places on the frame. So I took some 1" steal and made square flat bearing pads for 3 of the buttons and then made angle brackets that bolt onto the seat pan and welded long "coupling" nuts to the frame to bolt it on solid. So it bears against/bolts to the frame in 5 places.
Very fiddly but it came out ok. Sorry, I'll post some pics in a bit. And yes...not stoked on the big king and queen style seat. I have a perfect one if anyone needs it? ;)
 
Sorry, got one already, and one's more than enough, lol. I already picked up an earlier Special seat to swap on, less "humped" and much better looking. Although I have to admit, that "humpback" was quite comfortable.
 
All right, back at it, got the head back from the machine shop, new valve springs and seals installed, surface skimmed to confirm flat, valve grind. Ready to put back together. Copper coat the gasket, string in the cam chain, everything going great then (dun dun duuuun) I realize I forgot to put that little spring steel thingy back in the head. $#!+!!
I pull the head back off and the copper coat muffs the head gasket. Double $#!+.
WTF is that there for? is it needed? Did I just dick myself out of $50 for a new head gasket when everything was going swimmingly? Seems like a stopper for the cam chain tension slipper but really? is this thing crucial? I expect to get the chorus of "Naw, we all leave that out! makes it a bitch to connect up the cam chain!!!"
Give it to me, I can take it!
head1.jpg
head2.jpg
valve spring.jpg
springy thing.jpg
 
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